Are these what aftermarket torsion bolts look like?

[beach]

Sorry, other suspension forum seems dead, ton of views and no replies, figure try here. These are M12x1.75 100mm which is repeated on here for a TT lift. However I'm not sure if the bolt should be fully threaded, or look like this with just the tip thread? B/c it has to be rounded off also at the top to fit the torsion bars. Does this matter or are these bolts fine?

Hope someone knows asap as trying to get this done

 

[Turdle]

You'll need a bolt without a shoulder, as they need to thread all the way in. The Torsion bar bolts also have a ball end , sort of a pivot point. Those will not do.


Bit of caution. If you need to move the keys that far up, the torsion bars might be weak. Tweaking em past their working point might be an
"oh snap" situation. Just sayin'

You might be better off spending time to find stronger t-bars.

 

[beach]

You'll need a bolt without a shoulder, as they need to thread all the way in. The Torsion bar bolts also have a ball end , sort of a pivot point. Those will not do.


Bit of caution. If you need to move the keys that far up, the torsion bars might be weak. Tweaking em past their working point might be an
"oh snap" situation. Just sayin'

You might be better off spending time to find stronger t-bars.

just need like another 1/2-1" inch to make it level, the driver side bolt stopped (which seems to be common reading on here), the passenger side still has room. Figure just get larger bolts. Just going to be driven on the street. Hoping this will help a bit too as my 31's are rubbing like a **** on the foot board fronts when like reversing or turning at almost full lock, especially if on a slant like coming out of my driveway, sounded like I ripped the foot board off. How the heck do others fit like 32's without trimming lol?!?!

So it has to be fully threaded, and yeah the shop I had finish the front suspension as I gave up dealing the LCA said they can round off the tips to fit the torsion bars.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

I have a weak 1.5" twist, more like a 1.25 and I clear 32x11.50's. Don't get me wrong it's tight, but I can go lock to lock with no rubbing except on a hard compression into a driveway or something and even then I only tap the mudflap.

I trimmed my plastics a little bit but you can't even tell I cut them. Did you not trim yours? You should have no trouble with 31's unless your wheels have a horrible offset. Mine are 15x8 with a 4" offset. Either that or you have seriously weak torsion bars. What number bars do you have and how high have you gotten with them maxed out?

 

[beach]

I have a weak 1.5" twist, more like a 1.25 and I clear 32x11.50's. Don't get me wrong it's tight, but I can go lock to lock with no rubbing except on a hard compression into a driveway or something and even then I only tap the mudflap.

I trimmed my plastics a little bit but you can't even tell I cut them. Did you not trim yours? You should have no trouble with 31's unless your wheels have a horrible offset. Mine are 15x8 with a 4" offset. Either that or you have seriously weak torsion bars. What number bars do you have and how high have you gotten with them maxed out?

Not sure what letter bars I have, don't know if the Mountaineer is different for the foot boards. Offset is 3.75" , got about 3" front the front TT (2wd). Pro Comp Alloys 15x8

I'm gonna back out or turn slowly till I hear that sound and see what its rubbing on, doesn't appear to be the front bumper, sounds like the front of the bottom of the foot boards. Either way truck drives incredible, would never believed a 15yr old truck could drive, ride, handle this nice, blows away the reflex shocks and monroe air shocks in rear I had before on stock sized tires. Think a lot has to do with getting the extended Rancho RS5374 shocks in front for TT/lift applications, as I've been in a TT Explorer before and it rode like **** vs my truck. Have Warrior shackles in rear and the Monroe Coilover shocks.

 

[corkey]

if 31's are rubbing something is wrong for sure,,

i would be interested in seeing a picture of your front a arms taken from about 15 feet in front of your Mounty,,

are the arms flat across ? or do they slant upwards towards the outside or inside ?

sounds to me like you have very weak bars in there,,

the Mounty i would guess is the V8 , so it should have the strongest bars,
but if they are sagged out they may need to be replaced,,

i put 31's on my 99 xls and only had to cut the plastic lip under my front bumper a bit to get the tires to clear ,
i later did a bit of tt, but that was just to level the whole thing out,, not for tire clearance,,

 

[beach]

Could be no alignment yet either, was waiting for the larger bolts, and then to drive around and see if suspension settles/re-measure then get it aligned. Put new Moog Camber adjust kits on. Yeah its V8, 2wd, only street driven, don't think the bars are weak, overall the truck only kinda sagged in the rear drivers side which is norm, almost every other 2nd gen I've seen has sagged/leaned far more then my truck rear or front. Just trying to get it level, the Monroe Coil Overs in rear add more lift then normal with shackles then when just using shackles and regular shocks in rear.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

Not all V8's got number 1 bars. My 99 had 1's but my 96 has A which granted is still one of the stronger bars but not the strongest and I can hardly get 1.5" out of them now after 147k miles and 20 years.

OP check your door tag suspension code and that will tell you what bars you have assuming they were never changed. If not it's stamped on the end of the bar with the code.

 

[Turdle]

Could be the offset of the wheels. Stock wheels turn in clean, but some aftermarket wheels do not. Mine are offset out and I had to trim some off the inner fender liner. The front bumper also rubbed but it went away.

I might add, I did not crank the bars up very far, in attempt to save cv axles.

I have a lot of bolt remaining.

Using a longer bolt to get more twist leads me to think this

Think how lucky he was that this happened while he was sleeping

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394178&highlight=torsion+bar+broke+garage

 

[beach]

Could be the offset of the wheels. Stock wheels turn in clean, but some aftermarket wheels do not. Mine are offset out and I had to trim some off the inner fender liner. The front bumper also rubbed but it went away.

I might add, I did not crank the bars up very far, in attempt to save cv axles.

I have a lot of bolt remaining.

Using a longer bolt to get more twist leads me to think this

Think how lucky he was that this happened while he was sleeping

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394178&highlight=torsion+bar+broke+garage

Ouch, but looks like his truck was in rough shape and beat off road, this was only and will only be on the street, smooth roads here. Not much good offroading in South FL, most of the good spots require more then my truck, even a buddies Raptor had a hard time in some spots lol

 

[1997XLTRollover]

It happens but usually to rusted out bars or ones that get smashed off road. TT of course doesn't help because the bump stop is almost useless so the bar goes far beyond its normal twist point. I however do enjoy the extra suspension travel.