Axle pivot bushings

[mrfishnhunt]

I am thinking it is time to change my APB's. How do I do this? Can it be done without pulling the entire axle assembly out from under the truck? Can I just put my floor jack under the axle, remove the pivot bolt and carefully lower the axle to clear everything then change them out? Do I have to press them in and out? I was thinking of using an all-thread and some large washers to press them in, but how do I get them out of the axle? I have 220,000 miles on this x. It has some pretty bad clunking under the front. I am changing out most of the bushings and other things that need to be replaced. Thanks for the help.

 

[410Fortune]

air hammer is the way we get those bushings out, a press MIGHT work but they are stamped in there pretty good.
removing the beam is your best bet IMO

I like to tack weld the new bushing in place also because the new ones will not fit as tight as the ones you remove.

 

[Infragate]

yea, taking the beams out is your best bet. Will make it alot easier to remove and install the bushings. You should consider doing the RA bushings as well, while the beams are out.

 

[Rhett]

I like to tack weld the new bushing in place also because the new ones will not fit as tight as the ones you remove.

Don't most axle pivot bushings have a metal "sleeve" around their outside? Is this what you tack weld? Do you tack weld a few spots around the perimeter of the bushing?

 

[410Fortune]

yes the metal sleeve from Ford is stamped into the beam, think of it as a large rivet. this holds the beam on the bushing sleeve without allowing it to move forward and back.

This is why the air hammer can pop them out, you go around the edges effectively decreasing the diameter of the sleeve, so it will fit back through the beam. When you put the new bushings in, since we dont have a huge machine to stamp them in place and the new bushings fit semi loosley, you can tack weld in 2-3 spots around the metal sleeve to the beam. this keeps the beam from coming loose of the bushing and allowing it to move forward and back.

the bushing is rubber inside a metal collar or sleeve, yes.

 

[Creager]

James duff sells bushings that dont use a metal sleeve, and retain the factory sleeve.

 

[410Fortune]

And a press is going to be required to get the new ones in and a torch/drill is going to be needed to get the factory ones out.
This method sounds like MORE work, then you hope the new bushings you pressed in dont slip inside the metal collar.

 

[DeRocha]

Like Fortune I used an air hammer to Un-flare the metal sleeve. I then used a ball joint press (Free autozone rental "C" clamp style) to press it out. After reinsterting the new bushing I kept it in place with the clamp and used my air hammer to flare the bushing to keep it in place. Tack welding would work, but many people aren't lucky enough to have access to welding equipment.

James duff sells bushings that dont use a metal sleeve, and retain the factory sleeve.

Yes, but the Factory rubber bushing is bonded to the metal sleeve and can be a pita to remove..

 

[mrfishnhunt]

How do I install the new ones? Will a little grease make them slide in easier? I bought some MOOG APB today and I hope to start on the x this weekend. Do I need a press or can I use an all-thread and a couple of big washers to put the new ones in? Thanks for the help. I am also going to change the RA bushings, they are also MOOG should I put on some lithium grease on all points of rubber/metal contact? Will the grease cause the rubber to deteriate?

 

[410Fortune]

the grease will not last in there long You can use graphite wheel bearing grease if you want.

If you are doing the radius arms and the pivot bushings (I personally would skip the pivot bushings unless they are wollowed out, because you need to dis assemble the entire ttb and take the beams out of the truck) OR consider also replacing your U joints inthe axle shafts, ball joints and possibly tie rods at the same time. Also the diff fluid, since you are going to have the entire TTB out of the truck you mine as well rebuild it. Of course re-packing the wheel bearings, lubing the brake slide pins and cleaning everything will also be a part of this job.

If you jsut do the radius arm bushings you can replace these in 3-4 hours without touching the beams, jsut removing the radius arm cross member.

Something to think about.....
the new pivot bushings will slide intot he beam no problem once you air hammer the old ones out, it is getting them to stay that is tricky (weld or again air chissel/hammer)

Even with the beam out of the truck you can spend 10-20 minutes with the air chissel getting the old pivot bushing and collar out of the beam, especially your first time. I just dont see a press being able to push the OEM bushings out of the beam while its still under the truck

 

[mrfishnhunt]

This ex is a 2WD with 220,000 miles on it. I thought that I would NEED to replace the pivot bushings due to the milage. Thanks.

 

[410Fortune]

2wd? OH man SO much easier! hahaha
yank the beams, replace the bushings, consider doing ball joints, re-pack wheel bearings, clean/lube the brakes, maybe new pads and you are golden.

Good time to do tie rod ends since you have to pull the tie rods off the knuckle.

 

[Creager]

I used a torch to remove mine, just light the sucker on fire and wait. Falls out, hah, of course you want the beam to be off the truck. Sounds like everyone has got you covered. Good luck...

 

[mrfishnhunt]

Well today I did it. I pulled the axles, radius arms, swaybar and everything else. I changed the axle bushings ( not that big of a deal really), I changed the radius arm bushings, the sway bar bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, and shocks. I think that pretty much covers it. I had to replace several bolts because the bushings were so bad that they beat the threads off of the bolts. Next week new front rotors and bearings along with a set of calipers and pads, possibly even new brake hoses on the front. Thanks for the help guys.