Bad wheel bearing noise???

[gharmon]

I heard what I thought was a bad wheel bearing noise coming fromt he pass. side front wheel. There was also top to bottom movement so I thought for sure it was a bad bearing. I replaced both bearings and the seal and steal the same noise but no movement. It's not the brakes I don't think. It makes the noise regardless of the brakes being applied or not. What else could be the culprit? any other bearings in that area? What about the auto hubs? could they cause this?

Thanks,

Gerald

 

[Spdrcer34]

Auto Hubs, or Front Axles...

Ryan

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Top/Bottom movement is balljoints. Left/Right movement is bearings.

 

[gharmon]

Top/Bottom movement is balljoints. Left/Right movement is bearings.

Will worn ball joints make a noise like I described above?

Do the axles turn all the time while your driving with the auto hubs?

Thanks,

gerald

 

[fischerry]

yes theyb can make that noise, and no they are un locked unless your auto hubs failed while in 4wd.i had a setlock up in 2wd and actully pop teeth when i engaged in to 4hi.So i wheeled the ret of the day in 3wd. and drove home the same way.i would hope if you changed your wheel bearing that you would clean the auto huubs up.If you packed the hubs in wheel grease it is a no no...hurry and flush/clean them in tranny fluid andfill the hub in tranny fluid as you install.i know you don t think your brakes are bad but first gens front brakes love to fail.ie the inner tube collapse's causing the brake to ably constant pressure and brake pad to grind at all time and worst when cornering. keep us posted. you did pack the wheel bearing in wheel bearing grease right?

 

[DeRocha]

I heard what I thought was a bad wheel bearing noise coming fromt he pass. side front wheel. There was also top to bottom movement so I thought for sure it was a bad bearing. I replaced both bearings and the seal and steal the same noise but no movement. It's not the brakes I don't think. It makes the noise regardless of the brakes being applied or not. What else could be the culprit? any other bearings in that area? What about the auto hubs? could they cause this?

Thanks,

Gerald

The front stub axle shaft that passes through the spindle and rotor only rotates when in 4x4 or the hub is locked. When you replaced the bearings did you also replace the races inside the rotors in which the ride? It is always best to replace bearings with races as a set to prevent the old worn race from prematurely wearing/damaging the new bearings. Did you tighten the bearings correctly? What kind of noise are your hearing? Is it constant? Does it change with vehicle speed or when turning? Worn hubs can chatter and buzz especially when making turns. To eliminate them you can engage 4x4 for a few feet to force the hubs to lock. If the noise is gone then you'll need to clean your hubs.

 

[GottaBigBlock]

Top/Bottom movement is balljoints. Left/Right movement is bearings.

Correct to a certain extent.......bad tie rods give side to side, bad ball joints give top to bottom, bad wheel bearings give both, but will also allow vertical movement with suspension hanging. To check, use a bar to lift wheel...if it moves, bad wheel bearings.

 

[gharmon]

yes theyb can make that noise, and no they are un locked unless your auto hubs failed while in 4wd.i had a setlock up in 2wd and actully pop teeth when i engaged in to 4hi.So i wheeled the ret of the day in 3wd. and drove home the same way.i would hope if you changed your wheel bearing that you would clean the auto huubs up.If you packed the hubs in wheel grease it is a no no...hurry and flush/clean them in tranny fluid andfill the hub in tranny fluid as you install.i know you don t think your brakes are bad but first gens front brakes love to fail.ie the inner tube collapse's causing the brake to ably constant pressure and brake pad to grind at all time and worst when cornering. keep us posted. you did pack the wheel bearing in wheel bearing grease right?

Yes I did pack the new bearings and I installed the new races with the new bearings. Now I didn't do anything to the auto hubs. What's this with trans fluid stuff? That's a new one on me.

The noise isn't audible at low speeds. It starts around 25mph or so stays about the same noise level. It's about the same loudness at 25 as it is a 65 or so it seems. Turning has no noise as your going slower than the 25mph most of the time. It's not a squeling noise. It's more of a roaring type noise.

The 4wd doesn't currently work. We bought this used for a little of nothing and I've been working on the more important things first. I've read some of the stuff on fixing the 4wd. I haven't tried any yet. But just curiously why did none of the 4wd light used to come on even when mashed and now they (all of them, the ones by your right knee and the ones by the actual buttons) stay on constantly. No it's not in 4wd (at least the axles or driveshaft or turning) May be better to post this problem later.

Thanks,

Gerald

 

[DeRocha]

Roaring definitely sounds like bearings. How tight did you installed the bearings??

 

[gharmon]

Roaring definitely sounds like bearings. How tight did you installed the bearings??

The way I was always taught to do it was to tighten till you feel some resistance while turing the rotor, then back off a hair. Is this not right?

Gerald

 

[DeRocha]

The way I was always taught to do it was to tighten till you feel some resistance while turing the rotor, then back off a hair. Is this not right?

Gerald

The bearings need to be seated whenever the wheel bearing nut is removed. As such for Autohubs you need to torque the nut to 35ft/lbs while spinning the rotor. After that you back it off 1/4 turn and then re-torque the nut to 16in/lbs (1.3ft/lbs). 16 inch pounds is not very much. as such I just tighten the nut using the socket with by bare hand. Check out the brake diary for info and pics.

Other members have reported similiar noises and found they didn't fully seat the races when they were replaced.

 

[gharmon]

The bearings need to be seated whenever the wheel bearing nut is removed. As such for Autohubs you need to torque the nut to 35ft/lbs while spinning the rotor. After that you back it off 1/4 turn and then re-torque the nut to 16in/lbs (1.3ft/lbs). 16 inch pounds is not very much. as such I just tighten the nut using the socket with by bare hand. Check out the brake diary for info and pics.

Other members have reported similiar noises and found they didn't fully seat the races when they were replaced.

What kind of socket/tool fits that big ole axle nut? It's got a wierd shape. At least mine does.

 

[DeRocha]

What kind of socket/tool fits that big ole axle nut? It's got a wierd shape. At least mine does.

As shown and indicated in the brake diary thread its a 2 3/8" HUB Socket available at many Autopart stores. Hardware stores such as Sears, Home Depot etc.. won't carry it.

 

[fischerry]

i am not a technical with words as deroacha but when i broke my driver's side auto hub inner locker i just used his brake thread as a quick skim threw.So deroacha have you been told lately that, your the man!!!! Thank you for you help and support you have givin everybody...sorry im ot trying to kiss a$$ but just thought a little curtiousy should be givin.

 

[Joe Dirt]

If anyone else has similar issues and the above doesn't fix it... I went through the same "what the heck" parts chase- rotate your tires and heep them at or above 35 psi if they're a decent tread. Mine were badly scalloped and once rotated out, it all went away. It was a bearing sounding growl from 30-45 and it was still somewhat noticeable at higher speeds although not as bad.

 

[baphomet666]

Please


Hello,

my 94 Explorer needs new wheel bearings front and rear
I bought new ". autoparts.com"They arrived here in FRANCE.
But the problem here in France, nobody does the repair of Ford EXPLORER
Ford even say he does not know the camion.
I am therefore obliged to make the repair myself.
I found the manual on EBAY "Haynes " but I do not understand very well. to tighten the wheel bearings
my problem first, I have to buy the key "2 3 / 8" Socket Hub "
Can you give me assistance to find the key please.

This is correct?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00971302000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

thank you very much

:exp:

 

[Spdrcer34]

Yes. That is the correct one!

 

[baphomet666]

Thank you very much for your reply

:exp:

 

[baphomet666]

Hello,

:scratch:I wanted a discussion for replacing the wheel bearing " inner and outer front " and wheel bearing rear..

The haynes manual is not properly explained or that it I do not understand.
I would like to know first the tools necessary????

This!

And this!

A hammer, pliers, flat screwdriver, a hydraulic press, grease ....and what else

Thank you very much for your assistance i am in the "SH.T"!!!!!!!!!!

:exp:

 

[DeRocha]

You should first read the 1st generation (1991-1994) Ford Explorer Brake Diary thread. Although it is mainly focused on Brakes it goes into great detail on how to remove and replace the wheel bearings.