How to: Band adjustment locknuts - Re-Use? + Band Adjustment Procedure w/ Pix

[Glacier991]

I from time to time get asked if it is ok to reuse band adjustment locknuts. I always hedge my bet.... the threads will be a close enough fit to prevent MAJOR leakage in my opinion, and the nut also would slow it.... AND you COULD add a little silicone or RTV sealant at the case/nut juncture....

Well I just finished a tranny and I had reason to want to try something on adjustment, so I removed a brand new lockbut I had just installed. I always lube the seal and had on this one... but when I removed it it looked like this:

Here is it beside a brand new one (the little ring in the middle is what I pried from around the bolt where it entered the case, making a NICE seal.

So, your call. Thought this might be instructive. I think you could use some other sealant and watch it for leaks, but clearly the rubber sealing ring gets totally fubar in the process!

 

[BrooklynBay]

There are a couple of alternatives that could be done instead of discarding those nuts. One thing that could be done is to just pry out those seals, and use very thick O rings. Another thought would be to use either fiber, or plastic washers that are used on drain plugs. A similar idea is to use the rubber coated washers that are used on the FWD AXOD. I use those washers on the A4LD's inner bell housing bolts. I don't like those small O rings that are pressed into the head of those bolts. They rip very easily. I use the rubber coated washers in addition to those O rings to prevent leaks in that area.

 

[Glacier991]

Brooklyn you are redeemed. 2 for 2 on suggestions tonight. I'll explore the possible fits on those O rings in a gutted nut... remember though those nuts have to torque and hold the bolt stationary. You have pics of the rubber coated washers ? Be ncie to explore that too. Thanks for the good suggestions. Follow up.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I was looking for a picture of those washers on Transmission Parts USA, but I couldn't find it. I have a package of some of those washers. The outer diameter is 3/4", and the inner diameter is 3/8". I think they are too small for that adjuster. What is the threaded shaft's size?

 

[BrooklynBay]

I found an old receipt from 2000 that I think has this item. I originally thought that it was for an AXOD. The receipt says part # 27268 A4LD washer for the front pump bolts. I hope that this helps. I wonder where I could get more of these. That local transmission parts store closed down a while ago where these were originally purchased.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I found a different part # there. It is 23277 Ford A4LD pump bolt washer seals. They are $0.22 each. There was no picture of them.

 

[Glacier991]

Those are for the front case bolts.... on the bellhousing I think.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You are correct.

 

[Glacier991]

Still a good message. FORD wants you to buy NEW bolts, all for a new O-ring. Buy the O-rings and reuse the bolts.

 

[Jason94sport]

Where can I buy these? Dealer? How many do I need? 2? How hard are they to replace. I might just replace mine cause it's a hassel to get to the tranny shop.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Why don't you just replace the seals with O rings instead of throwing out the whole lock nut? As for ease of replacement, this is probably one of the easiest parts to replace on this transmission. There are 2 of them located on the driver's side of the transmission. Any place that sells transmission parts should sell it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here is a link to them: http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Ford_C4_C5_Band_adjusting_nut_1964_on_p/250-000025991.htm. This is what it says: Adjusting Nut 2841 B/C 1985-94 2262841. 25991 Ford A4LD, C4, C5 course thread band adjusting nut 1964-on ($0.65). Description: 2 required on C4 1964-81, 1 required C5 1982-86 and 2 required on A4LD and 4R44E. Used on C5 rear band adjustment only, the front requires 25991A fine thread.

 

[Jason94sport]

Thanks

I got the 2 new nuts. Can I just wrench the old ones off & put these on? Do I need to drain the fluid?
Thanks

 

[BrooklynBay]

You don't have to drain the fluid. Just make sure that you hold the adjusting stud in place when you are removing, and installing those nuts. You wouldn't want to throw off the adjustment, although it might be a good time to adjust the bands if you are already doing this at this time.

 

[Glacier991]

I'd echo Brooklyn's advice. If the bolt backs out too far the adjuster could fall out of position into the pan and it is a PUTA to replace it under the car (it can be done however). Holding the precise position of the adjusting bolt would retain the old adjustment of the band as well, although if you have an inch lb torque wrench this is an excellent opportunity to adjust the bands.

Do make sure you wirebrush and/or clean up the bolt threads as best you can and maybe loubricate them with WD-4o0 or your lubricant of choice - it will make things FAR easier on you.

 

[Glacier991]

Just to round out this thread, here is the section of the A4LD diary that shows the adjustment procedure on that transmission, the steps are the same for the 5R55E,S, W and N.

BAND ADJUSTMENT:

There are 2 adjustable bands - the intermediate and OD. The process is exactly the same for both - up to 91, with the double wrap band - (abandoned by FORD in 92) there was a difference, but since we are not going to use the double wrap, it is IDENTICAL for both). One end of the band is held by the apply lever (remember the "A" levers?) and the other is held by the adjusting bolt band end. Here's a look from on top of the OD band clearly showing you both. On the right is the apply lever end, on the left the adjusting bolt end...note the beautiful artistic arrows!

I snugged the bolts by hand - I had wire brushed and cleaned them and ran a tap into the threaded hole so I had a nice easy time of it and got accurate readings with the torque wrench...

I then tightened both to 15 ft lbs.... my thinking was to slightly overtighten to make sure any "slack" anywhere was taken up. Then I loosened them and tightened them to 10 ft lbs (120 inch lbs) using a 1/4 inch torque wrench. THEN, backed each off exactly TWO TURNS (NOT 3-1/2!!). Turns out a 8 point 5/16's socket fit the bolt end perfectly...

Lube the gasket on the locknut with vaseline....and carefully work in onto the bolt, not changing the bolt position....

Holding the bolt from turning, use a 19mm socket to tighten the locknut to about 30 ft lbs. (a good tight).

Repeat for the other band.

Here are som pictures of the anchor and apply sides taken from under the trannie. OD first...Anchor:

OD apply side:

Intermediate anchor side:

Intermediate apply side:

Ok... that about covers the bands....

BANDS ADJUSTED!!

 

[CDW6212R]

BTW Chris, TransGo adjusts those bands basically without a torque wrench. They recommend a turn-to-stop procedure, and backing them out until... related to the driveshaft turning.

I followed their procedure for both of my A4LD's years ago, and they worked fine. They have an almost exact procedure for the 5R55E's. If my scanner waws functional I'd hunt those instructions, etc.

Also, for those nut seals, if the area can be cleaned properly, RTV will definately seal any leaking. For that new nut, it would be a breeze. Older vehicles would need careful cleaning of the threads, nut, etc. to get a good seal.

I love RTV, the Ultra Black and Ultra Gray. I used it on my rooof fireplace cap, and it is still working years later. Regards,

 

[2001ExpSport]

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QADi...r1eaAAAAAEfDkQM/T1.jpg?dc=4675350846025283786

 

[BrooklynBay]

I wanted to post that diagram, but for some reason, the link won't post a picture here.

 

[inh]

Apologies for bumping an old thread, but I feel this is pertinent information.

What size O-ring will fit?

I'd much rather buy the O-rings now than have to take a nut to the store to try and find out..