Battery cables, alternator or what?

[tjsxplodr]

Well, the alternator regulator are good. Something's draining on the battery and I have no clue what it could be.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Actually, I DO know what it COULD be. ALL my power window switches are making that dash gauge go crazy everytime I press on them. NOW I have to find where that whole circuit is, so that I can figure out why the power windows are draining on the battery. ANYONE?

 

[stocked]

Before you go diving into a massive wiring headache.. CHECK YOUR GROUNDS! Run a new ground from the motor to the battery, and from the battery to the body and frame. If it persists, then and only then i'd start checking wiring.

 

[tjsxplodr]

I just replaced the entire battery cable set for my Explorer. That is not the problem.

 

[YBCold]

maybe start plucking fuses. to find culprit circuit

 

[tjsxplodr]

yeah, that's a thought, I tested the power window circuit fuse, and it was working. I HATE guessing electrical issues, I am NOT good at it.

 

[YBCold]

or maybe some kind of short out somewhere between the alternator and bat

 

[tjsxplodr]

Could be, but I doubt it. I will check the wires on the battery, alternator etc.

 

[bcbid]

Machgirl: I chased a similar problem to yours for a year. I had alt. check , changed relays.etc. went through 2 batteries. Bat. would die overnight. Ended up a penny fell in my cigarette lighter and was shorting out. Just a thought i would share. Brian

 

[tjsxplodr]

No problems with that that I'm aware of, its clear and no obstructions, works fine. Gah, I hate electrical crap!

 

[Iron Weasel]

Sent you a PM.

 

[YBCold]

is there any chance somehow its the starter?

 

[tjsxplodr]

I can check the wires but I'm not having any starting issues.

 

[Iron Weasel]

The windows are drawing more current than what's available. The alternator can only output so many amps before it hits the upper limit. If you have headlights, the radio, all the electrical systems (PCM, ignition, fuel injectors, etc.) running, and then hit the window switch then the windows will momentarily pull current from the other systems which is why the headlights dim.

If it happens at idle or low RPM then the alternator isn't spinning fast enough so it's output is less than 100%. If it does it no matter the engine RPM then you're exceeding the available limit of the electrical system.

 

[tjsxplodr]

So in other words I need to replace my alternator again?

 

[Iron Weasel]

Not unless you want to install a high output unit. I did a little Google-Fu and found units that have 130, 180, & 220 amp output.

There's nothing "wrong" in a literal sense, you're just drawing more power for a few seconds than what the entire vehicle electrical system can handle. Over time, electrical system corrode and break down internally, and as I said in my PM, increase resistance and you decrease amperage. So while your alternator might be putting out 95amps, you might only have 80amps that's usable. The power window motors are just that - motors. They take current to run and if you don't have any available, the motor will pull it from something else.

You're not going to hurt anything, so you have basically two choices.....Live with it or spend the cash for a high output alternator. It's more of an annoyance than an actual problem.

 

[SoNic67]

The battery should be able to take short time spikes in the electric load. It is able to trun the starter at several hundreds of amps, should be able to drive the power windows.
It might be a short in the power windows circuit itself (the small gauge wires in that circuir will not be able to support high amps and thats why the voltage drop).

 

[tjsxplodr]

Will have to weigh the options I guess lol. It doesn't seem to hurt anything, just more annoying when I'm driving at night especially.

 

[Tbars4]

...A couple questions and suggestions after following all this...Just trying to help...

...Your lights shouldn't be dimming even if you have a draw from the window switches. This means your alt may test out that it does charge but it is not working under a load as it should or you have a short or loose connections.

...First, pull the battery and alternator and go to another shop other than Autozone and have them bench tested...As I had mentioned before, AZ alt's have been showing up here for a while driving owners nuts trying to diagnose similar problems and they just knew it couldn't be the newer alternator...The battery may also have issues on it's own or due to, previous or current failing alternator..

..If above test out perfect, this is a little more in depth..

...Does the vehicle have an alarm/custom stereo or did it have?

...If no alarm/stereo was/is related, my first thoughts would be the alt/battery, then the new cables and connections (they could be assembled bad too, don't ask as I recently fell victim ), alternator wiring (common with Ford for years), or possibly a short at the master switches on the driver side due to getting bumped or wet...

..I actually helped out a guy who had similar problems and never even new the previous owner had an alarm installed...It was tied into the windows and door locks and he accidentally kicked the wires to the manual on/off for the alarm which created a short..

 

[tjsxplodr]

No alarm installed. I had a cd player installed about 5-6 months ago. I just don't remember when this all started. I KNOW its not normal for the lights to dim at any time. I will have to do all this next week when i have days off. Hard for me to get off a long shift and work on the truck. Will check connections to the battery, to the alternator. I'm not sure if I should bother checking the master window switch, cuz it happens on all four switches.