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BBK TB

Well, you guys have convinced me. Thanks for all the suggestions and replies! I ordered one from truckperformance, so it should be here sometime next year :D .
Thanks all!
Greg
 



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OK, what's an IAC? And where is it relative to the T/B? I feel soo dirty-having to ask these questions.;)
 






idle air control valve. bolted to the intake manifold just behind the throttle body. cylinder with a black cap on the side and a small harness.
 






there is a screw on the bottom left of the BBK, and you screw it in and it opens the throttle plate a tad. You do this until you can keep the truck running at 500 rpms with the IAC unplugged, then un hook the negative cable on the battery, reconnect the IAC, reconnect the battery, and start it up.

I messed with the screw some but I did not do it like you said. Thanks for this information, I wish I would have had it the other week. Now I need to get my TB back from Summit. They have it right now.
 






I have the BBK installed and its the best mod so far. The motor runs a lot stronger in the upper RPMs and its great on the highway.:D When I install the new motor Im going to open-up the plenum to the size of the BBK. This should provide maximum flow. Lastly, I didnt have any problems with the T/B sticking and the only thing that I dont like is when the motor is cold and the A/C is turned on the idle drops real low and "Hunts" until it warms up.:redexp:
 






has anybody used a throttle body spacer along w/the bbk tb? does the tb spacer help or is it a waste of money?
 






I have a question:

My BBK would never close unless I kicked the pedal, then and only then would I get my idle down to 7-800ish. When I looked at the stock TB the plate has a hole drilled in it, the BBK plate does not. I didn't notice this until after I tried to trim some of the diameter off the plate and I ruined it. Now I need to order a new BBK plate.

Do you think that hole in the stock plate is an important part of its function? Why not in the BBK?
 






Ross... did you do the following ....

there is a screw on the bottom left of the BBK, and you screw it in and it opens the throttle plate a tad. You do this until you can keep the truck running at 500 rpms with the IAC unplugged, then un hook the negative cable on the battery, reconnect the IAC, reconnect the battery, and start it up.
 






I just put my new TB on a few weeks ago, I had one hell of a time turning that little screw. It would not budge.

I had to put a small nut on the end and this did the trick.
 






Hey guys, still waiting for a reply on my previous post. also i plan on doing the intake and a chip @ the same time i do the tb so suggestions welcome, i just want to make sure i'm not wasting any mu-la on the tb spacer, ya know.
 






Psychotic,

When I get the new plate from BBK I'll give it a try. I'll let you know what happens.
 






I noticed that hole in the plate as well...and I'd guess that it has the function of allowing air thru at idle, so that the throttle plate can be close completely on the stock tb. However....!!!... on the BBK tb there is no hole...thus, I assume that the BBK's throttle plate needs to be open a little at idle, to let a little air in.

Psychotic; when I had my BBK TB, none of the directions said anything about following that procedure. It did say unplug the IAC but it didn't say to adjust to screw also; so every time I unplugged the IAC the engine died. Now, I know better, because someone here said that you have to open the plate a little. Sure wish BBK's directions would have said that. Now I won't get my BBK TB back until April 10.

wilson_nick
TB spacers dont do much on our engines. And probably not any effect with a BBK TB either. I've never used one personally on my Explorer so I can't speak from experience, only what I have heard from others here that have tried it.
 






wilson_nick :
Don't waste your money on the spacer, the 66mm tb will be enough. You should consider changing to a 70mm MAS at the same time as the larger tb will not benefit from the stock MAS and I am assuming by "intake" you mean going to a high-po filter (k&n, kkm). If are going to do this you should get a better flowing muffler than the stock one first. This combination works great on our engines.
 






I already have the k&n filter i just need to choose the intake structure which i want to use. i did plan on doing the mas and the tb at the same time, i do need to replace the entire exhaust system so that was my next question- i've heard good things about the borla headers, i just don't know where to go from there back, would dual exhaust be something i should do or just a single pipe?
 






Stick to single exhaust, dual opens it up too much for our 4.0 OHV. Most of us go with either 2.25" or 2.5". I had the factory cat converter tested at the exhaust shop and it was flowing very freely, not worth the money replacing. Can't help you on the headers though.
 






In regards to the adjustment screw on the tb, I turned it a few turns (counting as I went so I could reset it back to the factory setting) before installation and made sure it was free. When I went to adjust it, I could do it easily with my fingers.
 






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