"Best" way to do a radio replacement

[mahieber]

I have a '92 XLT with AM/FM/Cassette which has been giving me troubles for about a year. When listening to the radio, the volume cuts out intermittently. Seems to work okay with tapes. I am ready to swap out the head unit, and have pretty much decided on a cassette unit with a CD changer. We all know there is a million to choose from. What I am stuck on is whether or not to stick with the factory amp and factory wiring to the speakers. I don't need audiophile sound... just good tunes on the way to the deer lease and fishing lake.

Questions:
1. If I stick with the factory wiring and amp, I know I need the harness adapter which will convert the signals going to the amp. I think they call this an integration harness. If I go this route it seems that the output wattage of the head unit is meaningless... it is going to be knocked down on the way to the amp...correct?

2. After reading the stuff about later model Explorers at Dead Link Removed they talk about 3 options... integrating the existing amp, unplugging and "jumpering" around the amp("This method is only used for radios with more than 40 watts per channel output."), and running new speaker wires...which they say is NOT recommended. Can anyone comment on their experience with their replacements?

3. If I need the integration harness or the bypass harness, where is the cheapest place to get one?

Thanks,

 

[Kontrol-Trak]

Invest a little extra $ and bypass the factory amp. It will result in cleaner sound.

1. If I stick with the factory wiring and amp, I know I need the harness adapter which will convert the signals going to the amp. I think they call this an integration harness. If I go this route it seems that the output wattage of the head unit is meaningless... it is going to be knocked down on the way to the amp...correct?

You shouldn't be too concerned about the output power of new headunit. Most HUs have about the same RMS output, which isn't much. But the factory amp adds alot of noise to the sound singal, so I'd say the best way to go is bypassing factory wiring & amp.

My $.02

 

[Cartman]

I got a Pioneer DEH 330 and the place installed it for free and bypassed the factory amp, the whole thing cost me $310 can (about $200 US) and it sounds alot better then stock. Most units have 40-50 watts max x4 and I've found that to be lots. But from what I've been told always bypass the stock amp or else you will get noise.

 

[mikeymed8]

I would replace the radio and leave the factory amp in place. See how it sounds, if you like it, leave it. If it doesn't sound right then I would bypass the amp and it should clear it right up. The factory amp is a two channel amp and it only powers the two rear speakers and the fronts are run off of the radio. I think that it will sound pretty good with the factory amp.

I ended up installing a 4 Channel amp in my truck and ran new speaker wires to all of my speakers. It sounds great, but that is definetely not the way that you want to go.

To get the harnesses, you can go to any car audio shop in your area. They aren't very expensive. Probably only like 15 bucks.

good luck,
Mike

 

[mahieber]

My Christmas present

Just so that y'all can tell me what I should have bought and where I should have bought it , I figured I would post what I actually did order...

Pioneer KEH P4010 Cassette Receiver
Pioneer CDX-P1270 12 Disk Changer
4 - 5 1/4 MB Quart QM130.03KX Coaxial Speakers
Clarion 8" subwoofer Explorer enclosure for the back (anybody want to buy my net?)
Rockford Fosgate 8"subwoofer
Lanzar 215 amp to drive the subwoofer
Rockford amp installation kit
Upholstered minivan console to hold the cd-changer

Still need to order the cable to bypass my factory amp

Still need to figure out how to explain to my wife that I need this stuff to drive back and forth to the deer lease

I could have saved a few dollars by ordering from different dealers, but I found a site called

http://www.full-line-audio.com

that had the MB Quarts for $99 a pair and free shipping for phone orders over $250. The guy was real patient. I am a rocket scientist, not an audiophile.

Total bill (not counting the console I got from carparts.com) was $833.

 

[Kontrol-Trak]

Nice set-up...I think you are gonna want an amp to drive those MB Quarts though. Post some pics when you are done with the installation

 

[mahieber]

Hopefully when I am done with the installation, all you will see if the new console and the new head unit. The biggest trouble I am having right now is figuring out where to mount the cup holder for my 52 oz insulated cup that I drink Diet Coke out of.

I test fit the head unit and the amp today. Resisted the urge to hook anything up to the stock speakers.

I may end up rethinking putting the disk changer in the console. I may pull the guts out of the glove compartment and see if it will fit there. It will fit in the console, but will waste way too much space. And I like the secret compartment under the rear cupholder. I don't think it was meant to be that, they just didn't put enough glue on it to keep inquirying minds out. Nice place for one of my carry weapons... legal down here.

I have a lot of schematics to draw... dual batteries and the battery combiner/isolator is on its way.

 

[Triton46]

Where did you get your console? I can't find one for my 91 sport. Could you post a picture?

 

[XLT_66]

i would def. bypass the factory amp....i didn't get it bypassed...and my speakers almost sounded the same...when i bypassed it....it made it so much clearer and let my speakers actually work...i highly recommend the bypass....it puts out crappy signal and the new deck prolly puts out more than the amp actually does


just my $.02