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better mpg mods questions

thor1701

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 24, 2007
Messages
184
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City, State
fresno ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 EB
ok i've done loads of reading, and it all confused the heck out of me, i would like to do a cold air intake setup like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0548978580&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT
ok something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0312191820&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

also thinking of a blue chip on ebay also, dont have alot of money so im trying to do things cheaply, nothing has been changed on the truck, its a 96 explorer EB, 4 door version, i mainly drive it in town so far, when i start the truck it normally runs fast, im asumeing thats to warm it up? and after it runs for a while, the rpms drop down to 900? cant honestly tell
 



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the best efficiency mod is driving habit, keep the rpm low. look into hyper-mile. everything else is just a selling point for your hard earned dollar.
 






You have an EB so it should be a V8. On my dads one of the biggest things that helped on in town gas mileage was taking off the manual fan and putting on an electric. I think it added like 5 mpg.
 






its a v6 actually, taking off the fan and putting an electric one on? interesting, how would i go about doing that?
 












i'll check it out thanks
also read a little about the hyper mile thing, it said something about Iridium tipped spark plugs have better fuel efficiency? i looked thoes up on autozone, and thoes are kinda expensive, whats the best plug for my truck that will give it the best gas? it runs perfectly fine that i can tell so far
 






The Iridium are the best plug that you can run. I run them in everything I own. And on the plus side they last the longest too.
 






ok wich would be better

Autolite Xp Iridium/Spark Plug or Ngk Ix Iridium/Spark Plug
they are both 7 bucks at autozone
only Autolite has a mail in rebate
 






They are both good brands. So it doesn't matter. If your changing wires also get at lest 8 mm or 9 mm wires.
 






like waskly said, its all driving habits. you can spend money on mods but the spent money on those mods will cancel out your MPG savings for a long time. decreasing the weight of your truck, becoming a proffesional cruisecontroller and keeping your RPMS down are the best things you can do and they are all free. another great thing to do is figuring out routes to places you frequently drive to (work, favorite resaurants, the mall, trailheads etc.) and coming up with new routes that have the least amount of stop lights and signs. i drive a lot, and using hypermiling techniques, ive been able to pull 550 miles on one tank of gas in my 2003 ST (4.0L auto) on my best try, which was about 27 MPG freeway. i posted on this topic before, check it out.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312590
 






Do not buy that fan looking thing for your intake. That will do nothing but restrict inlet air. Do you know why factory intake ports are always rectangular and not round (until the last minute where the port transitions to the round intake valve)? It's because the factory knows that energy is wasted if the air is rotating in a circle instead of going straight in. The commercials showing water swirling is true. Water swirling is not air swirling, and has more to do with a vacuum lock (lack of air) in the bowl.

Here's my mpg recommendations:

K&N air filter
Stock air box, but try to find ways to get more cold air into it, like maybe drilling holes that may face the front of the vehicle.
Hard tires of the stock size, with as much air pressure as the tire recommendation allows.
87 octane if it's an older vehicle. 93 octane if it's newer than about 2008.
Aftermarket exhaust that's larger and mandrel bent, like magnaflow.
Muffler placement as far back as possible.
NGK copper spark plugs, and change them often. Otherwise, factory Ford platinums.
Lower the vehicle, and remove any thing that sticks out and drags, like roof racks, vent visors, spoilers, etc.
Make sure your front wheel bearings are freshly packed, and keep them on the loose side of normal tightening.
Make sure your brake rotors and nice and round and true, and don't drag on the rotors.
Switch all fluids over to synthetic. For mileage, run the thinnest stuff you can get away with. 75w90 in the differentials, synthetic ATF in the power steering and auto tranny. 5w30 in the motor.
Stay away from aftermarket cold air kits for mileage purposes.
If the front O2 sensors have more than 75k miles on them, buy new FORD O2 sensors.
Clean the MAF sensor regularly.
Shield the intake tubing from the underhood heat. If possible, pipe in fresh cold air into the air filter box.
Get an aftermarket exhaust pipe to replace the cats and cat pipe.
Buy an SCT tuner.
Try not to vary your foot when you drive. A nice steady pedal results in less "accelerator pump" action.
Keep it 55 mph or less.
 






with the k&n filter, i read that it can eventualy gunk up your maf and your engine because the filter itself has oil in it and whatnot, what about one of the dry flow one's? also was wondering on the opinion on this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0688516887&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

it says "The Little Box of Insanity plugs into your air intake harness delivering a reading to your ECU that the air is at optimum temperature in return it advances you timing allowing for a better air/fuel mixture, delivering more HP."

i dont care about power, i just want slightly better mpg as gas here is over 4 dollar's
 






No No NO. Never do anything that lies to the computer. Those sensors are on there for a reason. If more timing would help, the factory would have added it. There are temperature compensation tables in the computer that are there for a reason. If it's colder out, the motor is more spark tolerant, and if its hot out, the motor is less spark tolerant. The OEM knows that, and that's why those tables are in there. Trying to fool those tables is almost always counterproductive, and will cause drivability and gas mileage problems. Those guys that sell that crap have never tuned a car in their life.

The K&N brand filter is THE best filter on the market, period. It's design is just wonderful. They flow better after years and years of never cleaning the thing than a paper element does brand new. That's no hype, it really does work. Ask David Vizard, or any dyno tuner (myself included). It works because the oil/dirt in those filters literally can move out of the way of incoming air, giving the effect as if it were never really dirty. FYI, the best brand of paper air filter happens to be Motorcraft.

If you don't want to spend any real money, the best things you can do are drive easy, keep the tires full, and keep the MAF clean and spark plugs fresh.

If you want to spend some money and make significant increases, buy an aftermarket exhaust system that goes from the exhaust manifolds back, that's mandrel bent and has a consistent I.D. And get rid of the cats... of course that is illegal if you drive the car on the street. Some states inspect such things, others do not. Then, buy an SCT Xcal3, and a K&N Filter.

Since we aren't modifying the engine itself (like for racing), the best way to produce efficiency in any engine is to make sure that pump has no inlet or outlet restrictions, and that way the only restriction is in the pump (engine) itself. In our case, this means an unrestrictive inlet tubing and filter, preferably hooked to cold outside air, and an unrestricted exhaust system.

There are some catches to that phrase, that aren't so obvious. You can't buy a "cold air kit", because they will change the tuning requirements of the engine slightly. This might add power, but will probably hinder gas mileage unless you dyno tune the vehicle to remap the MAF xfer function in the PCM. Another catch is not to add "headers". They change the resonance wave tuning in the exhaust, in addition to changing the overall flow. This tuning is probably already maximized by Ford, even if the flow isn't ideal. So no headers, but everything behind them should be restriction free! A mandrel bent 2.5" or 2.75" exhaust with a low restriction muffler and no catalytic converters is ideal for mileage and power.

The SCT tuner will help a lot too, I shouldn't understate that. In it, we lean out the WOT fuel tables (factory is over-rich to be extra safe for extreme conditions like 24 hr non-stop heavy load conditions), we slightly advance the timing, and if the cats are removed, we can shut off the Cat Overtemp Protection. This protection basically dumps a bunch of fuel on the motor if it thinks the cats are getting too hot. It also will run the car real rich at first to "light off" the cat. If you get rid of the cats, we can turn off all this extra fueling, and that means a mileage increase.

These tuners come preloaded with good tunes in them, but I also have the professional tuning software (Advantage III) that allows me to custom tune the device as well. With the PCM code off your computer, I can open up the tune and look inside to see where it might be improved upon. Some have lots of room for improvement, while others are fairly decent right from Ford. Just depends on what I find inside. One thing is for sure: all cars can be leaned out at WOT for burning less fuel and making more power. Most cars can handle a little more timing, which adds spark efficiency.

The reason is Denver. They only have 86 octane, and they're way up in the mountains. All cars must be 50 state certified, so Ford has to tune for this crappy Denver scenario, even if the car is in flat, sea level Florida. Knowing you don't live in Denver, and are sure to be able to buy 87 (or better yet 93) octane, we can get rid of some of these safety margins the factory was stuck with putting in the tune. And more efficiency has the net effect of making more power AND saving gas. Win-win.
 






i will look into getting a k&n filter, thats prolly all im gonna be able to afford at the moment, thats alot of good reading, i will have to look at my air box alittle more to see where the cold air comes from, its a weird looking thing, its a round air box, it doesnt go into a square one, just odd looking, anyways i know k&n is the best, but i was reading alot of the post's and people have said they have oil on them already and it can mess up the maf and gunk up stuff, i know there's a completly dry one out there, i just cant think of the name of it
also someone made the sugestion of removing the fan and going for an electric one, how's that done? i wouldnt even know how to make an electric one work, it sounds interesting tho....
 






another method to get a little more mpg is wax the vehicle. less air drag, less resistance, less fuel, since it needs less power to do the same.
 






another method to get a little more mpg is wax the vehicle. less air drag, less resistance, less fuel, since it needs less power to do the same.


I should be pulling about 35mpg then... :D

(Seriously- that does help...)
 






You have an EB so it should be a V8. On my dads one of the biggest things that helped on in town gas mileage was taking off the manual fan and putting on an electric. I think it added like 5 mpg.

5 mpg seems like alot. I know I didn't get that much from mine, maybe 1. It probably added about 5 horsepower though. Don't take that to heart, the clutch fans are somewhat efficient so it might not be that much of a gain either, I'm not really sure.
 






5 might be high it was at lest 2-3. But any ways I know it helped a ton on highway trips. He can pull 23-25 mpg on the highway. He also has a Cone filter, 2 inch lowered, more of a street treaded tire, no roof rack, and a sct tuner
 






Swapping the clutch fan for an electric fan does free up some horsepower under full throttle. Although it is true that a good thermal clutch fan has the ability to disengage when it's not hot enough to warrant it's engagement. Even free-wheeling, it probably does use up some power. And under 1/4 mile acceleration tests, it's bound to be productive since an electric fan does not have to engage at all during the run. So it is a race trick for sure.

Electric fans have drawbacks too though. They take up less space (good), but they usually aren't as effective at passing air, and often 2 are used instead of 1. And remember power is not free. The alternatore eventually has to charge the battery back up to compensate for the electricity used, and that costs extra fuel.

Clutch fans are often used on trucks, even though the same engine in a car gets an electric fan. This is because trucks are forseen as workhorses by nature. And when you work something real hard (like towing a trailer or hauling stuff), the motor gets hot. And when a clutch fan is engaged, it pumps a lot of air thru the radiator, cooling things off pretty effectively. So heavy duty use = clutch fan. But what do you really do with your explorer? Drive down the road easy, or work it like a truck?

Electric fans have one other huge benefit. They can be controlled by the PCM to only engage when the motor is over a certain temperature, and to disengage when the motor falls back below that temp. This helps control engine running temp to a finer level. They last a very long time, and take up less space. They can also be made to run (if the engine is really hot) even after the car has been shut off. In general, one quick look at almost all factory cars shows they all have them now. This alone tells you the OEMs think it's a better setup, except where heavy duty comes in.

There are plenty of writeups on how to swap in elecric fans. But a good starting point is to find a fan and shroud that fits onto a radiator that's your size. Then to control the fan/fans, you would need some sort of thermostatic device that turns them on at a certain temp, and off everywhere else. Then, you would need to wire up one SPDT relay for each fan. If you rig it up to come on all the time, or use a flip switch to control it, you won't end up with a good thing at all.

The K&N does use a light oiling, which is fine. With light oiling, the gauze holds the oil film in the filter. But if you over oil it, that's when the excess oil can get sucked into the intake tubing. This oil can get on the MAF sensor inputs and cause them to read falsely. This would hurt mileage and performance. In other words, it's fine if you don't over oil it! Well worth the cost and concerns.

I would be very concerned about dry K&N type filters not filtering correctly.
 



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