Binding when turning

[0two explorer]

2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 V8. Just had a trany rebuild as well.

Like the title says, the SUV feels like it is binding on tight slow speed turns. It feels like it is in 4x4 mode.

I did a bit of research and tried the fuse (17 and 18) trick and it still did it. I guess this disengages the 4x4 module or something.

I am stumped as to what it could be. I lifted the rear end, and spun the drive shaft. It seems to spin freely with some play. Not sure how much is acceptable, but I get about 1/8 of a turn of play.

Any suggestions?

I should also mention that the 4x4 seems to engage, and the light on the dash stays on once the 4x4 button is pushed. When I push the 4x4 low, the light on the switch flashes a few times, and goes off. There is no idicator on the dash for 4x4 low.

I have a long trip planed right away and would like to get to the bottom of this.




Any input is greatly apreciated.

 

[matt0248]

My X did a similar thing, it was the Limited Slip clutches chattering. Changed diff fluid and it went away for awhile. Eventually the clutches were destroyed and the chattering went away. Had the Diff rebuilt. Everything inside was trashed.

 

[0two explorer]

Thanks for the reply.

I think I will disconect the output shaft at the diff for the front diff. and see if anything changes. I gues this will tell me if it is partially stuck in 4x4.

I also noticed (while the rear was up in the air) that when I turn the drive shaft for the rear diff, it gets partially stuck, and if I continue to apply force (not much) it starts to turn again. But it does feel like it is geting hung up on something. It is dfinetly an LSD diff though.

I read in a coiuple of places now that people have had luck disconecting the 4x4 module and the problem goes away. I will try this as well.


EDIT:

So I was just playing with the 4x4 low for a bit. I cycled it a few times on/off, and the shaking binding seems to be gone when turning. I heard the 4x4 module clicking while I was doing all of this, so it seems to be working.

Something else/different came up though. When turning it whines now, especially faster turns, in neutral as well (while turning). I suspect that the transfer case needs to be rebuilt.

Input?

 

[jay_c]

Does it do this all of the time, or does it only bind after the car warms up?

 

[0two explorer]

Does it do this all of the time, or does it only bind after the car warms up?

I seems to do it more when cold.

I took it in this morning to the same shop that rebuilt the tranny. On the way there, the "4x4 High" fashes 8 times every couple of minutes. It has never done that before.

I am hoping that they can pull a code and prceed with the repair.

 

[jtrasap]

First place I'd look would be the ABS sensors. A bad sensor could be telling the Transfer Case clutch to lock up when it doesn't need to be locked up. Good luck.

 

[Asmegin]

Like the above poster mentioned, it's the rear differential. There is a TBS out there for the problem, which involving changing out the clutch packs.

What I, and many others on this forum do, is to change the rear diff. fluid. I tried Amsoil Severe Gear Oil (Synthetic 75W140), but it didn't work so I forked over the money and got the Ford Motorcraft Synthetic Gear Oil 75W140 - worked good. Also, even though the TSB calls for a 4oz of friction modifier, you'll need 8oz.

 

[0two explorer]

Like the above poster mentioned, it's the rear differential. There is a TBS out there for the problem, which involving changing out the clutch packs.

What I, and many others on this forum do, is to change the rear diff. fluid. I tried Amsoil Severe Gear Oil (Synthetic 75W140), but it didn't work so I forked over the money and got the Ford Motorcraft Synthetic Gear Oil 75W140 - worked good. Also, even though the TSB calls for a 4oz of friction modifier, you'll need 8oz.

I confirmed that it is the differential, and will do the fluid change tomorrow. I assume this friction modifier is a standard off the shelf item, or do I need to go to Ford for it?

First time I take a vehilcle to a shop in 10 years, and they completly misdiagnosed the problem. I guess it's back to DIY.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[Capt'n Morgan]

Like the above poster mentioned, it's the rear differential. There is a TBS out there for the problem, which involving changing out the clutch packs.

What I, and many others on this forum do, is to change the rear diff. fluid. I tried Amsoil Severe Gear Oil (Synthetic 75W140), but it didn't work so I forked over the money and got the Ford Motorcraft Synthetic Gear Oil 75W140 - worked good. Also, even though the TSB calls for a 4oz of friction modifier, you'll need 8oz.

Can you post the TSB details? What years is this for?

 

[Asmegin]

Can you post the TSB details? What years is this for?

>>TSB 06-4-4

03/06/06

LIMITED SLIP AXLE CHATTER, SHUDDER, BINDING
SENSATION, OR VIBRATION DURING LOW SPEED
TURNING MANEUVERS

FORD:
2002-2004 Mustang, Explorer
2003-2004 Expedition
2004 F-150

LINCOLN:
2003 Navigator

MERCURY:
2002-2004 Mountaineer

This article supersedes TSB 06-02-16 to update the Service Procedure.

ISSUE
Some 2003-2004 Expedition, 2003 Navigator, 2004 F-150 vehicles equipped with a 9.75" or 8.8" limited slip rear axle, and 2002-2004 Explorer 4dr, Mountaineer, and Mustang vehicles equipped with 8.8" limited slip rear axle may exhibit a chatter shudder, a binding sensation, or a vibration during low speed turns. On 4X4 vehicles, the sensation may appear to be originating from the front axle or the steering gear.

ACTION
First verify the condition. On 4X4 trucks ensure that the vehicle is in 2WD, to isolate the rear axle. On all vehicles, turn the wheel fully right (or fully left) and then accelerate the vehicle. If the condition is verified to be in the rear axle, replace the limited slip clutch pack.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

CAUTION INSTRUCT THE CUSTOMER NOT TO TOW WITH THE VEHICLE FOR 500 MILES (805 KM) AFTER THIS REPAIR, TO ALLOW THE AXLE TO BREAK-IN PROPERLY.

Order and install the appropriate clutch pack, follow the instructions detailed in the Workshop Manual.

^ 6L1Z-4947-A (9.75" limited slip)

^ F5AZ-4947-BA (8.8" limited slip)

NOTE INSTALLING A CLUTCH PACK INTO AN INDEPENDENT REAR SUSPENSION (IRS) AXLE IS DIFFERENT FROM INSTALLING A CLUTCH PACK INTO A SOLID-BEAM AXLE. BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE WORKSHOP MANUAL PROCEDURE.

INSTALLATION TIPS

^ Be sure to install NEW circlips and halfshaft/wheel end nuts on IRS rear axle (not included in the service kit)

^ Soak the new clutch packs in Additive Friction Modifier (XL-3) for fifteen (15) minutes prior to installation

^ For IRS axles, the half shaft seals need to be replaced. Expedition and Explorer/Mountaineer applications should use seal kit part number SL1Z-4A109-A. Removal of the half shaft excluder seal 1L2Z-1N013 may be required, if equipped, to facilitate re-assembly

^ Refill axles with 4 oz. Additive Friction Modifier (XL-3) and the necessary amount of Rear Axle Lubricant (XY-75W140-QL), regardless of the axle lubricant system originally used in the axle. Fill to capacity recommended in the Workshop Manual

NOTE AXLE FLUID REQUIREMENTS HAVE BEEN CHANGED. ALL VEHICLES BEING REPAIRED BY THIS TSB MUST HAVE REAR AXLE LUBE XY-75W140-QL INSTALLED, IN PLACE OF XY75W90-QFEHP. AS PART OF THIS REPAIR, CHECK AND REPLACE IF NECESSARY THE CURRENT XY-75W90-Q"FEHP" METAL TAG, WITH A NEW 75W140 TAG (F3TZ-4121-AA).

ADDITIONALLY, REMOVE THE MULTI-COLORED LABEL WHICH IS LOCATED ON THE RIGHT SIDE, AXLE TUBE, OR BLOCK OUT ANY/ALL "FEHP" OR "75W90" REFERENCES ON THE LABEL.

 

[jtrasap]

So...did changing the diff fluid help? If the binding stopped when you got the 4x4 to disengage, that would pretty much rule out the rear diff clutch pack issue which is very common. I'm just going to guess that you'll have more relative problems in the near future. Another common problems with the 4411 transfer case is that the 4x4 shift motor(a fairly easy fix) will give out, or the wires will become corroded. I would check the wires to the motor. Also, if the 4x4 lights flash, there should be a fault code stored in the 4x4 system, I'd check it out and trace back to the problem. If the rear diff is whining, it may need bearings. The undue stress from it being in permanent 4x4 could have caused some premature wear. Changing the diff fluid may quiet them down temporarily but I'd still trace things back to the original problem since the binding stopped when the 4x4 system was eliminated from the equation, it's obviously a 4x4 related issue.

 

[0two explorer]

I had to change the 4x4 module, that solved the flashing 4x4 light and binding in the transfer case.


The rear end still needs to be done. The diff is causing the rear end to shutter at low speed turns if accelerating. I will do the oil change in the diff this week with the friction modifier to see if it helps at all.

If not, I will do a rear end rebuild.

 

[jtrasap]

I had to change the 4x4 module, that solved the flashing 4x4 light and binding in the transfer case.


The rear end still needs to be done. The diff is causing the rear end to shutter at low speed turns if accelerating. I will do the oil change in the diff this week with the friction modifier to see if it helps at all.

If not, I will do a rear end rebuild.

Glad to see you're making some progress with the issue. I'd probably be proactive and just rebuild the diff considering the situation. It's probably on its way out and changing the fluid will just prolong the inevitable and maybe leave you on the side of the road in the future.

Good luck

 

[0two explorer]

Glad to see you're making some progress with the issue. I'd probably be proactive and just rebuild the diff considering the situation. It's probably on its way out and changing the fluid will just prolong the inevitable and maybe leave you on the side of the road in the future.

Good luck

I need to figure out what is involved in removing the dff. Driveshaft, axles are a given. If I remove it myself I will just take it in for a rebuild somewhere localy.

 

[jtrasap]

Once you have the drive shaft and Axles out of the way, it should just be a matter of unbolting the diff from the frame. I don't have my truck in front of me, but I'll take a look at it when my wife gets home. I'm thinking about putting a locker in mine, so I need to get a better look at things anyhow.

 

[matt0248]

Once the axles and drive shaft are out, there is one electrical connector and I think Three-four large bolts that hold it in place. Be careful, it is awkward and heavy.

 

[0two explorer]

Once the axles and drive shaft are out, there is one electrical connector and I think Three-four large bolts that hold it in place. Be careful, it is awkward and heavy.

Not a big dea, I have rented trany jacks before for differentials. Works great.

I got a quote though for a full rebuild (parts and labor) $650. Not work screwing around with it at that price. They put in a new OEM lsd clutch pack.

Can't really go wrong at that price.

 

[arlind04]

hello guys,
i own a Mercury Mountaineer 2005 which has the same issue as described here above - in low speed, when turning in curves the car binds up - it feels that the rear wheels don't move at all.
I brought it to a shop and they said it was the transfer case - they changed the TC, but the problem persists, same as before.
Now, would be interesting to know what was the outcome of your issue? You said you had to change the 4x4 module? Is this an electronic part? Did you have to change the rear differential as well? Or just change the differential oil?

I hope i will get an answer - would definitelly help a lot.

Thanks

 

[kifferarri]

Just a little note, from one of the comments above. If the clutch packs do end up finally failing, it wont leave you stranded on the road. It will just act as an open diff. This applies to the limited slip clutch packs only. If the diff is making noise and the bearings are gone, it could leave you stranded.

 

[0two explorer]

Rear LSD was replaced with OEM LSD and the problem went away right away. The module failure was a coincidence. Have not had issues ever since. It drives and tows (6,200lbs loaded holiday trailer) great with about 150k miles on it now. Will be doing a transmission flush soon. Still need to repair the bank 1 leaking exhaust manifold (at heads), but that is not big deal. The harde one (bank 2 was done last year).