Brake Bleeding on a 96 w/ abs | Ford Explorer Forums

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Brake Bleeding on a 96 w/ abs

MONMIX

I fix dents
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City, State
Millersville , Maryland
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer Sport
According to my Haynes manuel bleeding the breaks on a 96 and earlier with abs you need an anti=lock test adaptor.
Does any body know any thing about this or this procedure?

For a referance it is in the Haynes 1991- 2001 Explorer manuel page 9-15 first collum step #15.

Help on this asap would be appriciated.
 



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You should only need the adapter if you are replacing the ABS valve. If you are bleeding the calipers it is not necessary.
 






According to Haynes is is also for bleeding.

I / we have blead the breaks several times. It feels good and as soon as we start it up the pedal goes straight to the floor.
 






Monmix... I cannot comment on your vehicle specifically, but the Antilock adapter that is used on many other Ford AL brakes for setting them up for bleeding is the 90-ALA-50. There are aftermarket versions available (Thexton makes one). In essence they run the pump and cycle the solenoids. If this is what your manual is showiong that's what it does. I didn't know it applied to this vehicle though. Email me if you have any questions, I also have several of those adapters.
 






The comments in the Haynes manual made me think that you have to use the tool to bleed the brakes, but reading the Ford Service Manual makes it clear (at least for the 97 MY) that you only need to use the tool if you get air into the ABS hydraulic control unit, usually by disassembling the HCU.

I was able to bleed the calipers on my 97 in the normal way without using the tool described in the Haynes manual, just as mrboyle said.
 






Well, it was for an Ex we had in the body shop where I work. Left front wheel ripped plum off the vehicle.
New drive axle, upper and lower control arm, strut, knuckle, brake hose, outer tie rod, wheel and tire bla, bla, bla, the brake hose was totally ripped off and so there for the brakes had plenty of air in the lines.

After we came to the conclusion we could not fix it in house we put it up on a roll back and shipped it to the Ford dealer. I hate doing that cause we have to cut a check for our repair.

What does the 90-ala-50 cost any way?
 






yeah, the techincal brake job spec book we have at works says you bleed it in the normal non abs way....right rear, left rear, right front, left front
 






Originally posted by jimabena74
yeah, the techincal brake job spec book we have at works says you bleed it in the normal non abs way....right rear, left rear, right front, left front

Did it that way several times. SEVERAL.

Had it solid as a rock. As soon as we would start it. Bam right to the floor. Every time.
 






I don't know what a new 90-ALA-50 goes for but they show up now and then on E-bay for $100 or less. The Thexton ones list for about $225. (www.thexton.com). The thexton does what the ALA does, but without a pass through for a breakout box.
 






Ford Technical Info

MONMIX,
Here are a few quotes from the Ford Tech CD for a '95 -

"The brake master cylinder and Hydraulic Control Unit must be bled using Anti-lock Brake Adapter T90P-50-ALA and Jumper T93T-50-ALA. If this procedure is not followed, air will be trapped in the HCU which eventually leads to a spongy brake pedal.

1. To bleed the brake master cylinder and HCU, disconnect the 40-pin plug from the Electronic Control Unit and install the anti-lock brake adapter to the wire harness 40-pin plug.

a. Place the bleed/harness selector in bleed position.

b. Turn the ignition switch (11572) ON. At this point the red OFF indicator on the adapter should turn on.

c. Push the motor button on the adapter down. This starts the pump motor. The red OFF indicator turns off and the green ON indicator turns on. The pump motor will run for 60 seconds once the motor button is pushed (you do not need to hold the button down). If the pump motor is to be turned off for any reason before this 60 seconds has elapsed, push the abort button and the pump motor will turn off.

d. After the first 20 seconds have passed, push and hold the valve button for 20 seconds. This bleeds any trapped air from the brake master cylinder and HCU.

e. The pump continues to run for an additional 20 seconds after the valve button is released.

2. Bleed the brake lines in the following order. Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front "


Additionally, the Ford Tech info is clear that you can bleed the brakes in a normal way but only if you make damn sure you keep the reservoir full enough to keep air out of the system. Once air gets in the system, you're screwed if you don't have the electonic adapter/jumper to control the HCU for bleeding.

Looks like you may have gotten air in the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) somehow and you now do need the adapter tool to bleed it. The adapter is an electronic control unit that plugs in to the controls of the HCU and helps sequence you thru the process of bleeding it.

From my quick review of Ford Tech CD, it appears possible to have a firm pedal with the vehicle not running and then have problems show when you energize the ABS system with vehicle running. In other words, when you start the vehicle the HCU comes alive and it shows the air trapped in the HCU. With the ABS system unenergized (vehicle off) you really do not have the HCU/ABS in the hydraulic loop.
 






Yeah Ahef,
That is pretty much what I had gathered. That was just the tid-bit I needed to crystalise every thing. Thanks.

But like I said, we sent it down to the dealer. That truck left the shop last week. So, all it is now is just learning and beeing prepaired for the next one.
 






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