Brake/front end questions

[Everdream]

Looking for a little advice on what to look for on my truck.

92 Explorer, Disc fronts, drum backs, Yes to ABS.

Front driver side brake Drags (makes a whine/whistle while running)
Slow fluid loss from the system.
IT doesn't stop like the brakes need bleeding though...
Truck pulls hard when you're really on the brakes but stops "fine"
Usually pulls to the Left, I was told by a brake place (who had no time to look at it =/) that it sounds like the right side caliper is broke (and its pulling because of a "tank steer" effect) I also randomly get a clunk from under the truck I think its on the drivers side front end, Don't know if its related, but I put it here in case.

What should I look for, and check for sure?

Pads on both sides look 90% plus and the rotors aren't grooved up badly.

thx
-Everdream

 

[ghosttrain2]

I would find the source of the leak first. Inspect the rear of the master cylinder, brake lines,RABS valve, brake hoses,and wheel cylinders. A leaking wheel cylinder or axle seal can cause a brake pull, and will require replacement of the brake shoes. If the wheel cylinders and axle seals are ok, inspect the front caliper slides for corrosion, and clean as ness. There is a caliper slide grease-silicone based I believe, that you can use, only a thin coating. If those look ok, you could have a frozen caliper- If that is the case, I would replace both of them with reman units.
Good Luck!

 

[92exp4x4]

You most likely have a sticking caliper. Sounds to me like your brakes need to be completely overhauled. If one part is failing then the rest of the system most likely is not far behind. For the reason of safety, I would do both calipers, all rubber lines, and any steel lines that are badly rusted. Replace the rear cylinders and possibly the master as well. The fluid is going somewhere, there has to be a leak.

As for the poping in the front end, check all the bushings for play. Check to see if your radius arm bracket bushings have been replaced. If there are bolts holding the brackets on, then chances are they were replaced at one time because they were originally riveted to the frame.

Check the ball joints for play as well as the tie rod ends and links. Any of these could have wear are binding up.

 

[Tony H]

Sounds like teh Drivers side Caliper or Pins are hanging up. The Outside Pads look good.. How about the Inners? How easy do the Pistons push back in when you retract them? Is the Drivers side Garder then the passeneger side. Are the Slides clean and shiny with just a dab of grease on them? Before I bought anything, I'd pull the Slide Pins off, lift teh Caliper and compress teh Pistons to see if all functions good. While it's off, take a good look at the inner side of the rotor and check inner Pads. Wire wheel the Pins clean , wire brush teh surface they ride on at teh Caliper and the Bracket and reassemble. See if it all goes away

 

[Everdream]

Well, after looking under the truck clueless for a while (I'm not good with "stuff under the front of a 4x4" as I've never owned one before ) It looks like I get to go to Les Schwab anyway because some kids decided to pop my tires last night. So until I can take it in Thursday, Its going to sit on its "doughnut", which brings me to the next question. Can I safely drive this truck on its "Spare tire" Which (due to my full size getting stolen) Is off a ranger or smaller explorer wheel. The tires fits the lugs however the "cup(Hub?))that fits behind the rim and goes through it, has to be removed to fit the wheel. will driving this way hurt the truck (assuming: 4x4 doesn't work, its in 2WD). Thanks guys.

Edit: @ Tony H: I took a closer look at the driver side pad (the dragging one) and it looks like the inner pad is fine also, which leads me to think that like you said, the caliper may be sticking closed a little.

 

[Iron Weasel]

If you aren't driving it very far or very fast, then driving on that spare will be fine.

 

[Everdream]

Well, Its not exactly a "Spare" per say, its a full size tire..on a truck that isn't my monster. The tire Itself is a 205/75 full size off another explorer (PS I do not have ANY idea why this explorer had 205's on it. from my understanding the stock tires are 225's or 235's), but mine are 235/75's. the only problem I have is that "Hub" piece don't fit through the center of the wheel. Its basically a cup what bolts to the the wheel and sits on this gear looking mabobber,where the rim goes over it. (I'm assuming this is the "lock/unlock" thing that turns when you back up to lock and unlock the hubs for the 4wd) Is it ok to run without the "Cup" thing. I just want to make sure the response wasn't in consideration of me running a "doughnut" type rim.

This is exactly what is NOT on my truck for the moment.
Its only being used in town, I just want to make sure I will not destroy anything important. Since the truck is in 2x4, does this thing matter? Thanks for the response!

ADDED: Also I put a cover over the gear spline thing on the wheel to keep crap out.
-Matt

 

[Iron Weasel]

You'll still be OK....unless you plan on taking a couple hundred mile road trip or something to get to the shop.

 

[92exp4x4]

ADDED: Also I put a cover over the gear spline thing on the wheel to keep crap out.
-Matt

Bingo! Thats all you really need to worry about, just to get it to the shop.

 

[Everdream]

Well, this one was fun. I took it to discount tire and they didn't do brake jobs, so when I got it home, I started looking around under the truck, I turned the wheels, I put the brakes on and off, took the tire off, and in general just played "which thing doesn't belong."

Problem one was: It was ACTUALLY missing the lower "guide pin?" on the drivers side and the caliper was moving back and fourth when the brake was on.
I ended up getting a pin from the parts store for like a buck and stuffed it in there. the brake is a lot stronger, but I think its still got a leak, and its possible the missing pin caused a problem with the caliper. the lines along the frame rail look fine, and are a shiny chrome color, no abnormal fluid under there
so now I turn my attention to "suspected problem" number two. There is this..cone shaped bar running from the wheel area to the frame on the truck about mid way. does anyone know what this is actually called, i think its offcenter, or missing a bushing of some sort there and causing my truck to clunk when i drive sometimes thanks.

Matt

 

[Iron Weasel]

The "cone shaped" thing is probably the radius arm. It should connect to a bracket underneath the frame. There should be a bushing on either side of that bracket on the end of the radius arm. If either bushing isn't there or is worn out, it can definitely make a clunk sound, especially when you start moving from a stop.

 

[Everdream]

yep, its connected at the wheel and points backwards and up and connects near the front of the truck about where the frost doors start. one side it kinda looks like a bushing goes through a hole, the other side (passenger) kinda look like it should do the same, I can actually see the bottom of the hole in the frame part on the bottom of the truck. Ill snap a pic. tomorrow.

it this one piece or can i easily change that bushing?

 

[Everdream]

Nevermind, I googled what you said, looks like the stupid RA bushings were junk to begin with in 92, and now they bane me. Heres hoping I dont have the rivets that are named in alot of the tutorials on changing them

 

[Iron Weasel]

Unless someone else has already drilled / ground / air hammered the rivets off, then you have rivets on there since that's how they came from the factory. I had the same problem, clunking from under the driver seat area during acceleration from a stop and it was because the radius arm bushing was mushed almost completely out.

I wasn't real comfortable busting those rivets off, so what I did was to unbolt the nut (1 1/8" socket, BTW) from behind that bracket behind the radius arm on each side. I then unbolted the front driveshaft from the differential flange, removed the suspension (coil spring, shock, stabilizer bar link) from the axle, unbolted the radius arm from the axle and then pulled the entire arm out. Sounds simple, but it took me a good 3 hours or so from start to finish. Biggest PITA was sliding the axle forward enough to get the radius arm out of the bracket.

I think the next time I do it, I'll just break out my air hammer and break the rivets off. That sounds like it would be a lot easier than how I did it the first time.