brake lines

[cskinner89]

They all went one after the other and I need to replace them all, this will be my first time doing lines. I got them all off and did some rough measurements and came up with around 25ft (of line) to do the whole thing, does that sound right? And when I was taking them off I had to mangle them to get them out from around random stuff. Is there some kind of trick to putting them in? Do I try to bend them then put them on or do I bend them as I put them in? And last what type of flaring/fittings do I need for this? (Do I need a "compression nipple" flare, single flare or double flare, etc?)

Any help would be great!

 

[fordnut71]

iv always prebent my lines to the shape of the old 1s.
the lines are 3/16th tubing with a double inverted flare. get a quality flaring tool.
u can buy a roll of line that comes in 25ft rolls an fittings,make sure u keep the old fitings for the master as they are a different size an u will be needing them.
just take your time an remeasure the lines to get as close to the old 1s , buy more line then u will need cause you will mess 1 or more up an u can always use the line again for another brake line job 1 day down the road.

 

[little x]

If you go to an auto parts store they will have several different length lines, along with the fittings to connect these lines, for the one running from the master cylinder to the rear end. It is much easier then cutting the line custom length and making new ends. I just did this last weekend and I went and bout a few of every size line, and a couple connectors, then just returned what I didn't need. At first I tried to custom fit them exact, but the $35 flare tool I bought was a POS.
You'll need to bend the line as your putting it in. Just gently work it with your hands, keeping the radius of the curves large. The front driver's to passenger's is fun, as is the one from the master cylinder to the rear. It's nice to have an assistant. You don't need the brake tool kit on rent-a-tool from many auto parts stores, all it has of use is a bending tool, which 90% of the time doesn't fit in the area you need it to.
While routing the lines you don't necessarily need to follow the old lines' rout exactly, just make sure it's out of harms way of all moving parts, the original rout would be a good guide line.
You might also consider getting some stainless steel braided lines while your doing all of this, they will last 10 times longer then rubber ones, and give better pedal feel.

 

[cskinner89]

are you saying i can replace all the lines with the braided ones? or just a select few?

 

[fordnut71]

you can get all the flex lines in braided from summit racing. if u in canada its much cheaper to buy from them then it is to buy the stock replacement hoses.

 

[DeRocha]

are you saying i can replace all the lines with the braided ones? or just a select few?

Just to clarify your vehicle uses 3 flexible brake hoses; one at the each front wheel, and from the rear hard line to the top of the rear diff. Hoses are used when flexibility is required. The rest of the brake system uses hard 3/16" brake line.

Caution: The brake lines can be a mixed bag of metric and std on vehicles with ABS. Std fittings require a double flare (common), while metric fittings require the less common bubble flare. The reason for this is that back in the day the entire brake system was std. When ABS came to the market Ford used Bosch for its components. As such some of the fittings coming from the ABS hydraulic control unit use metric fittings and require the bubble flare, while others use std fittings and double flares

BTW Do not through away any of your old fittings from the old lines you removed.. They can be re-used especially when you cannot find suitable replacements at the parts store.

The rear brake lines from the ABS Hydraulic unit back are 100% std 3/16" fittings with double flares.

The Front L (driver's) line uses a weird metric fitting (and bubble flare) on the hydraulic unit on 3/16" hard line, followed by a std fitting and double flare on the other end (connecting to the coil bucket). If you have to replace this hardline the easiest thing to do it is pickup a 3/16" metric line from an autoparts store. The line will have metric fittings on both ends with bubble flares. You cut one end off the line, remove the fittings and then re-use your old metric fitting with a new std fitting, followed by you making a double flare.

I haven't replace the passenger (R) side yet, but it may be the same..

 

[cskinner89]

yeah i have to replace the front passenger and i noticed the diffrence in the flares (the one at the coil was normal and the one at the master cylinder was weird looking) so is just the front ones a bubble flare becouse the main hard line from the master to the rear also had a bubble flare on the master side... so to me it looks like all the lines coming out of the master cylinder are bubble then go it standerd when they reach there end.... so can i get a bubble flare tool and metric fittings?

 

[DeRocha]

yeah i have to replace the front passenger and i noticed the diffrence in the flares (the one at the coil was normal and the one at the master cylinder was weird looking) so is just the front ones a bubble flare becouse the main hard line from the master to the rear also had a bubble flare on the master side... so to me it looks like all the lines coming out of the master cylinder are bubble then go it standerd when they reach there end.... so can i get a bubble flare tool and metric fittings?

I have not had to remove the fittings on my MC so I don't know what they are. Autoparts stores carry a variety of Metric fittings, but no one in my area had the metric fitting on the ABS Hydraulic control unit (directly behind the radiator). On non ABS vehicles the front line comes from the MC to the driver's coil bucket. From Their it connects into a banjo type splitter fitting going to the drivers and passenger side. The double flare tool is very common, whereas the bubble flare isn't. As such the tool could be $$ if you can't find a free loner one at an autoparts store.

 

[little x]

The only double flare tool at Advance Auto is a wast of money. And it's not even a loaner, you have to buy it. I returned mine, because even when fully clamped the metal is too soft and lets the line slip through while you press the flare. I guess my job was a little easier, no front abs to deal with.

 

[cskinner89]

when i say mster cylinder i mean the abs unit, so i have to replace all the lines including the main rear line and that is 12ft long and i cant get it pre flaired and i've called everyone i can think of for a flare tool with no luck sooo..... im not too sure what to do : can i just get the hard lines converted to braided ??

 

[fordnut71]

u cant use braided line for on street use u have to use hard line. ridgid makes a great flaring tool #345 but its expencive u might be able to rent it from home depot,i dont know iv owned mine for over 10 years now an cant count haw many lines its made up.you can buy a union for the back an just buy the premade line in 6o" lenths an use unions to make the 12ft mark.

 

[DeRocha]

when i say mster cylinder i mean the abs unit, so i have to replace all the lines including the main rear line and that is 12ft long and i cant get it pre flaired and i've called everyone i can think of for a flare tool with no luck sooo..... im not too sure what to do : can i just get the hard lines converted to braided ??

For the rear line you can get several hardlines with the fittings already attached. And just join them together with a union connection (get this at the autopart store as well). I would pick up a bunch of different sizes and just return the extra lines you don't use.

See Rear brake line rusted through for some info and pics.

 

[cskinner89]

I called a garage and he got me a favour ill just measure and cut all the lines and he will bubble flare them for me!