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brake problem

91explorer1009

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City, State
NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 sport
Ok, so I have the wheels off and everything and I am looking at the pads. First off I already bought the pads, and now looking at my old pads that are on there, they dont look bad. I have never done a brake job before so I dont know what bad pads look like. They actually dont look too thin to me. Now I know by the bad squealing and bad brake performance that I needed something. Can I actually tell by looking at the pads and measuring if I need new ones. Would the pads be really thin if they were bad. The rotors look clean no score marks or anything. Can I stick a ruler up to the top opening and jusdge like oh they are less than a quarter inch or something? Should i jkust go ahead and put the new pads on anyways since i got this far???I need help here, darn!
 



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You may need to have your rotors turned. Auto parts stores do it for around $8 a rotor, real cheap. The pads are usually pretty thin in comparison with the new ones you've got if they're bad.
 






How can you tell if you need new rotors, measure? do I need a special tool? Would I see any marks on the rotors, (there are lines)??? Also, would the brakes squeal if the pads are fine but the rotors are bad? I thought there was only squeal indicators for the actual pads if they are bad. Would the rotors squeal?? I thought they wouldn't if the pads were ok, I thought they would grind, I think thats happened before. Thanks
 






Nah, if the brake pads are working like they should then they should squeal and not grind...the grinding happens when they get pretty thin and then break aparat and off, so you just have the metal backing of the pad left...if it were me, I would get the rotors resurfaced (only catch is if you don't have the spindle nut socket - get this first before you take off the rotors..oh, and remember to get the little key out first) and then I would just put those new pads you got on...pads are what? 20 bucks...it would be worth it to me not to have to take it all apart...if you're really strapped for cash as I often am try just putting on the new pads and not getting the rotors resurfaced
 






91explorer1009 said:
How can you tell if you need new rotors, measure? do I need a special tool? Would I see any marks on the rotors, (there are lines)???

There are tools that measure thickness of rotors...but in my experience without these tools, you cannot easily tell just by looking if a rotor is warped or not. I mean, I have seen a rotor that looked perfectly fine, but it was warped badly.

Best test I know of is, if during braking, you get lots of vibration, then there's a good chance the rotors are warped. If you don't have much vibration thru the pedal when braking the rotors are probably still ok.
 






Hello, two cents more. I am a Rural Carrier using a 93 Limited 4x4. The brakes on these 1st gen Explorers aren't very good, given the weight. They are heavily taxed.
Replace as much of the brake fluid as you can. The boiling point lowers as the fluid ages. Bleed fluid out until it starts to clear up.
Pads should be replaced when they are less than about 20% of the thickness of new pads.
Avoid pads that have rivets holding the lining on. If they fail, they destroy the rotor immediately. There will also be no brake pedal until you pump enough times to push the pad out to the rotor. Factory pads are better than cheap aftermarket pads, and close to higher end pads.

I hope your's is not 4x4. The extra work to get the rotor off is a pain. Those parts are fragile. Good luck,
Don W
 






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