Brake problem

[GingeRed11]

Hey guys, so just recently I noticed my brake light pops on sometimes. It only pops on when I slam hard on the brakes (which is what I do all the time). Could've it been me trying to do burnouts, it doesn't affect the way I drive, besides seeing the light. Any suggestions? My car had brake problems when we bought it, but they were resolved. 95 Eddie Bauer 4x4

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Could be low fluid, bad sensor or you may need to bleed your brakes because of trapped air. I would look at the fluid first then bleed after that you will have narrowed it down to a possible bad sensor. I think the 95 has sensors, could be wrong.
Loquetus

 

[XLTrunner]

Not trying to be a smart-ass...but, if the fluid checks out and brakes operate normally otherwise, perhaps a change in driving habits is in order? Can't remember the last time I had to "slam" on the brakes...and, I drive in a large metro area. Not only is that hard on the brakes, but the suspension and likely the drivetrain as well.

 

[GingeRed11]

Not trying to be a smart-ass...but, if the fluid checks out and brakes operate normally otherwise, perhaps a change in driving habits is in order? Can't remember the last time I had to "slam" on the brakes...and, I drive in a large metro area. Not only is that hard on the brakes, but the suspension and likely the drivetrain as well.

I checked my fluid, it's fine it just started happening like last week. I was trying to do burnout with my car and I can if it's wet, but anyway, we got the brakes bled and changed on nov 19 2016, the day we got it. Could the brakes need to be bled again and pads changed again? I always drive and brake toward the last minute.

 

[XLTrunner]

If you have a firm pedal and no signs of lost fluid, there's no reason to bleed the brakes, again. And, if you replaced the pads last Nov, there's no way those could possibly be worn to the point of needing replaced in just 4 mos. It's probably just a glitch with the sensor on the master cylinder that's activated with the sudden and harsh application of the brakes. As I said, if it doesn't light under normal driving conditions, I wouldn't worry about it. But, with that said, be vigilant for any change in the way the brakes behave and keep an eye on the fluid level.

 

[GingeRed11]

If you have a firm pedal and no signs of lost fluid, there's no reason to bleed the brakes, again. And, if you replaced the pads last Nov, there's no way those could possibly be worn to the point of needing replaced in just 4 mos. It's probably just a glitch with the sensor on the master cylinder that's activated with the sudden and harsh application of the brakes. As I said, if it doesn't light under normal driving conditions, I wouldn't worry about it. But, with that said, be vigilant for any change in the way the brakes behave and keep an eye on the fluid level.

okay, could it be burning out? it goes away a little after when i stop applying high pressure

 

[GingeRed11]

Alright his time, today, I noticed that it stayed on. I stopped a. Stop light, it went on, ventured fourth, but stayed on whilst I was driving. I turned it off by tapping the breaks moderately

 

[96eb96]

I have the same miles as you (just about) and the same LED lights!

Also, the parking brake controls the light as well. I had one Ford where braking would actually move the wire in the switch just enough to turn it on and off. If the fluid is at the max line in the master cylinder, it is something with the float switch in there.

 

[GingeRed11]

I have the same miles as you (just about) and the same LED lights!

Also, the parking brake controls the light as well. I had one Ford where braking would actually move the wire in the switch just enough to turn it on and off. If the fluid is at the max line in the master cylinder, it is something with the float switch in there.

It's not at the max line

 

[96eb96]

When you have new front and rear pads, the level in the cyl should be set to max. You can use that as a visual indicator to gauge pad wear. As the pads wear the pistons in the calipers need more volume. If something is very worn or leaking and a light goes on it means check the brake system.

It should allow a bit of fluid to drop before the light goes on, but try filling it to max and see what happens.

 

[GingeRed11]

When you have new front and rear pads, the level in the cyl should be set to max. You can use that as a visual indicator to gauge pad wear. As the pads wear the pistons in the calipers need more volume. If something is very worn or leaking and a light goes on it means check the brake system.

It should allow a bit of fluid to drop before the light goes on, but try filling it to max and see what happens.

So the light was in fact on because of th fluid. So your saying the more worn the pads are the more fluid it needs to compress? We did a complete brake job when I got the car on nov 19 (bleed, need pads, new brake fluid)
Do I need new pads, I just added more fluid and it fixed the issue

 

[96eb96]

So the light was in fact on because of th fluid. So your saying the more worn the pads are the more fluid it needs to compress? We did a complete brake job when I got the car on nov 19 (bleed, need pads, new brake fluid)
Do I need new pads, I just added more fluid and it fixed the issue

Yes, just think of it, as the pad wears, the piston has to push out to compensate and there is more volume to fill in the caliper. The total fluid amount stays constant. So the level in the master cyl drops. So now you reset your fluid to the max with full pads. When it drops down 1/2 inch you should inspect your brakes, you get the idea. Good idea to take a look at each oil change. You should never have to add fluid.

 

[GingeRed11]

Yes, just think of it, as the pad wears, the piston has to push out to compensate and there is more volume to fill in the caliper. The total fluid amount stays constant. So the level in the master cyl drops. So now you reset your fluid to the max with full pads. When it drops down 1/2 inch you should inspect your brakes, you get the idea. Good idea to take a look at each oil change. You should never have to add fluid.

Is it bad I added fluid?

 

[96eb96]

Is it bad I added fluid?

Inspect your brake lines for leaks, unless you didn't check the fluid when you did the job. Leaks on these trucks are very common, due to corrosion. I don't know if they salt the roads where you are. Even if they don't, unless you are in Arizona, it is an issue because of moisture.If the lines look rusty and crusty please replace them ASAP. Usually if you have a leak you will know about it, but it could be just sweating fluid. Doing burnouts and heavy brake activity could cause old lines to weep.

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Slamming your brakes is not a good idea for any vehicle let alone one as old as yours as you could have blown a "pin hole" leak which will only leak fluid under pressure from brakes being depressed. Go get a friend or your dad, put some clean cardboard under your rig, grab a flashlight and when you or friend/father depresses the brake you look for leaks. That's the simple and cheap way or you could go the more expensive route....midis or ford dealership for a brake system analysis.
Loquetus

 

[Macgiobuin]

You may have to reset your metering valve in the master cylinder. If you ever braked while one circuit was lower than the other, then the valve would slide to prevent you from losing all fluid in the system if one of your calipers or brake lines failed; you would still have 2 wheels isolated from the leaky line or caliper, so 2 wheels of the brakes would still work but the slider would activate your brake light.

 

[koda2000]

I know you're young and think doing burnouts is "cool", but it's really tough on your vehicle. Especially a 22 year old 4,000 pound vehicle. At this rate you will be destroying your ride in no time. Here's a tip. Every time you do a burnout, throw a $50 bill in the glove box if you're a DIY'er. If you're not a DIY'er, make that a $100 bill. That way when you break your truck you'll have the money to repair it. Parts are expensive, labor is really expensive.

 

[96eb96]

I know you're young and think doing burnouts is "cool", but it's really tough on your vehicle. Especially a 22 year old 4,000 pound vehicle. At this rate you will be destroying your ride in no time. Here's a tip. Every time you do a burnout, throw a $50 bill in the glove box if you're a DIY'er. If you're not a DIY'er, make that a $100 bill. That way when you break your truck you'll have the money to repair it. Parts are expensive, labor is really expensive.

Didn't even want to mention the stupidity of doing burnouts/donuts, especially with a daily driver SUV.

In a few weeks he will be asking us about transmission codes if he keeps this up.

Treat a 2 decade+ old 150K vehicle gently and with respect, and be glad it is still giving you reliable service. It don't take much to take one of these old rigs off the road. It is like dealing with a 95 year old person.

 

[koda2000]

Didn't even want to mention the stupidity of doing burnouts/donuts, especially with a daily driver SUV.

In a few weeks he will be asking us about transmission codes if he keeps this up.

Treat a 2 decade+ old 150K vehicle gently and with respect, and be glad it is still giving you reliable service. It don't take much to take one of these old rigs off the road. It is like dealing with a 95 year old person.

Well, I remember being a dumb teenager and doing stupid stuff that and regularly breaking my vehicles, but they were only a couple years old or new. Like you say, doing it to a 22 year old vehicle with 150K on the odometer is just dumb. Seeing an old SUV doing a burnout is definable not very impressive. I've got a dumb-ass teenager living in my neighborhood who, at my last count, has left over fifty 20-30 foot double streaks of tire rubber all over the roads around where I live. Even a pigeon knows better than to fowl it's own nest.

 

[prayforsurf0]

Just a quick thought...when I drive sometimes I rest my left foot on the e-brake. I don't depress it of course, but having done this a lot over the years driving my truck I've noticed at times I put just enough pressure on the e-brake to turn the "brake" light on. It wasn't even close to actually engaging the brake, but it did trigger the light. Pulling the ebrake release handle and allowing the ebrake to move 1 cm up back to normal position turned the light off. Now everytime I see that light on I just pull the e-brake release handle. Sometimes the e-brake doesnt even move, but the light turns off.