Brake Problems on 94 Ranger XLT 4.0

[Aloha Ranger 94]

I am experiencing an issue with my brakes that is getting progressively worse. It started off with a simple pad change on the front wheels. When replacing the left pad I noticed the rotor was shot so I replaced it also. After about a month I noticed the brakes would drag occasionally on the way home. On one occassion the left front brake locked up and by the time I got home the wheel was smoking. Then when I applied the brakes the truck pulled to the right. So I figure the caliber was shot so I replaced it but I am still experiencing the problem. My next step was to replace the master cylinder and bleed the whole system. This did not fix the problem and when I tried to bleed the back brakes I could not get any fluid to the rear brakes. The repair manual states to bleed the RABS before bleeding the rear brakes but I cannot see where to bleed this system.

Any thoughts?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Your ABS system has a solenoid block that might have some air caught inside of it. Did you pull out the ABS fuse before bleeding the rear brakes? There is also a special tool that activates the solenoid block to bleed the rear brakes.

 

[Aloha Ranger 94]

Reply to BrooklynBay

Thank you for the warm Aloha. I will probably be posting more on this site and I have already seen a lot of useful information posted by very knowledgeable Ranger owners. As for your question, I did not pull the ABS fuse or know that was a step required for the 94 Ranger. I'll have to research that. This system has the RABS (Rear Anti-Lock Brakes) which may not have the same components as later model Rangers. Chiltons doesn't mention this step but your idea does sound plausible. It would explain not getting any fluid to the rear brakes. I'm also going to replace the front brake lines and the left rotor and front pads and attempt to bleed the whole system again.

Thank you again for your post and I hope others will chime in with any troubleshooting ideas they may have.

 

[BrooklynBay]

According to this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144393, there is a bleeder valve in the rear that has to be opened to bleed the RABS. Look at the post from 410Fortune.

 

[Aloha Ranger 94]

RABS looks like a mystery

Wow, you really had to dig to find that post, over three years old. I commend you for your persisitance. From reading those posts, it looks like people were having the same issues I am. I may end up having to replace that thing to see if I can get fluid to my back brakes. Like one of the posters mentioned in the thread you posted, there is a huge nut with what looks like a bleeder port but when I opened it, nothing came out. Had a hell of a time loosening it due to it's akward location. Not sure what else to do from there. Tell you the truth, the hell with RABS. Wish I could just bypass the thing and be done with it!! At least my front brakes are acting right. I replaced the master cylinder, rotors, calibers, hoses, and pads. Process of elimination...I eliminated everything!!

 

[BrooklynBay]

I have one idea. Try to open that rear bleeder valve, and connect a handheld vacuum/brake bleeder to it. I know that it works on regular brakes.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here is some information on bypassing the whole system: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1305699&postcount=4

 

[Aloha Ranger 94]

Bypassing the RABS

Funny you should point out bypassing the RABS as a solution because I was just searching the web and found several other forums that mentioned the same fix. Now that I see it is a pretty common occurance I will feel a lot more comfortable forking out the 150+ bucks to swap it out.

As far as using a vaccuum bleeder, I did get one because my wife doesn't want to come out and pump brakes for me. I had about 25 PSI of vaccuum and couldn't get a drop of fluid out of the back brakes. Seems like that RABS valve sticking closed should of been a safety recall from Ford since it cuts off all fluid to the back brakes!

 

[BrooklynBay]

It is possible that the rear valve never opened, and therefore never applied your rear brakes. This could cause your front brakes to work twice as hard, and increase your stopping time. Did you open the bleeders on the rear drums to see if there is any fluid in them? You mentioned that the valve was completely dry.

 

[ispymab]

94 ranger xlt

seems there are problems with this year. my question as a new poster is do you have to take the wheel bearing adjusting nut off to change the rotors on this same vehicle?