brakes question?

[91explorer1009]

I am changing my brake pads, and I am not sure exactly where to grease. Do I grease the 2 pins that I took out, or what. Top or bottom side?? Or do I grease the holes they are going into? I have a haynes but I am unclear. Also, what type of grease should I get. What should I ask for caliper grease?? Sorry for the dumb question, thanks guys.

 

[DeRocha]

You want to use brake caliper slide grease... Basically this grease will not affect rubber (like most other greases). If standard grease accidentally contacts the rubber caliper seal it can swell the rubber and cause it to leak.

After you have removed the caliper slide pins you should take a wire wheel or sandpaper and smooth the areas where the pins go. You then can grease the areas where the pins fit when you are ready to reinstall the pads. Don't Grease the pins themselves as it will be a PITA trying to re-install them all greasy.

 

[91explorer1009]

Thanks, also, in my haynes I am a bit confused, do you have to compress the piston before you take the pins out, and then with the c clamp on, slide the pins out, and also later when it is off do you have to compress it all the way down again, because in the haynes it says to compress it in the beginning, and also again later, in the picture illustrations. Steps on starting would be good? Like pins out, then compress and slided off, or vis versa? im not sure, thanks. oh, also, if i am changing the pads only, does the back part of the caliper come off or stay on?

 

[DeRocha]

I generally tap out the pins with a hammer & drift first. I use needle nose pliers to squeeze the pin halves together (each pin is made of 2 metal pieces with a rubber core) while tapping it out with a hammer. After the pins are removed I will compress the caliper enough to loosen it up so that it can be removed. If you're not touching the rotors you will not need to remove the caliper from the steering knuckle. I use a 5 gallon bucket as a work area and rest the caliper on it. I will then remove the pads and clean up the caliper slide areas. Now would be the time to use some sandpaper to un-glaze the rotors if you're not having them turned or replaced. I then put an old pad back over the piston and then press it back down as far as it will go..(the piston is fragile (ceramic) so don't use a ton of force). I then install the pads and test fit the caliper to see that it fits ok. I then will grease the caliper slides, install the caliper and use the pliers and hammer to re-install the pins.

The first compress is to free up the pads so you can get the caliper off the rotor. The 2nd compress is to seat the caliper piston so the new thicker pads will fit over the rotor. The 2nd compress is generally needed because the piston is still under a slight pressure from the brake system and will creep out slightly (preventing you from slipping the caliper and new pads over the rotor. When compressing the piston do it slowly and evenly (make sure the brake fluid fill cap is off @ MC because when you compress the piston the fluid will travel back up through the system). If your fluid looks brown then your really need to flush the system by bleeding each wheel until the fluid runs clear (ensure th MC never runs dry).

 

[Rhett]

DeRocha has good technique there.
I too find needle nose pliers a great asset in a brake job on our 1st gens.

For me, I think putting the slide pins back in is the most difficult thing. I have found that you can take the slide pin, and some needle-nose pliers, and squeeze one end of the slide pin while positioning it into the groove. Make sure the whole caliper assembly is properly lined up at this point, otherwise you won't get anywhere. While squeezing one end of the slide pin with the needle nose, take your other hand and gently tap the pin into the groove. Once you've done it a few times it's easy.

 

[91explorer1009]

once the pins are out, i am not sure where to put the c clamp to first compress it, on top of the outer pad, it seems like i am going to break something and thought it wasn't right, it would help to see a picture to get the points where i have to put the c clamp to compress it.

 

[Rhett]

NOTE: You don't always have to use a c-clamp. I have often been able to remove the whole caliper assembly WITHOUT using a c-clamp to compress the piston. Sometimes I have to though.

Don't put the c-clamp on the outer pad. It should never touch the pads.

The c-clamp should be placed on the caliper piston (at least that's where I have always put it). One side of the c-clamp should rest on the back of the caliper piston. The other side of the c-clamp (the side that you screw in and out) should rest on the ceramic circular part on the front the piston.

Be careful, so that you do not damage the ceramic surface. It should not take all that much force to push the piston in (make sure you have taken the cap off the master cylinder reservoir under the hood).

Once the piston is pushed in a little, you can remove the c-clamp (the piston shouldn't rebound enough to hinder you) and the caliper assembly should come off.

When the caliper assembly is off, DO NOT let it dangle by the brake line. I always take two paint cans and stack them in the wheel well, and lay the caliper assembly on them. Haynes manuals say to suspend the caliper assembly by a piece of wire. Well, I have never had luck finding strong enough wire, so I lay the assembly on the paint can.

 

[CDW6212R]

Guys, try these tips:
Use SMALL vise grips to squeeze the pins. They will hold, and free both hands to tap out the pin.
Use a screw driver to initially gain space to remove the caliper. Place it between the gap in the caliper, and the rotor,pad. (5 second task)
Open the bleed screw before compressing the pistons. The fluid in and near the caliper is the worst fluid. You want it out, and any debris that is pushed back up into the lines can damage the ABS system. One occurence of that would negate the cleanliness of pushing the fluid back in with the bleed screw closed.
The caliper will stand up straight on top of the spindle, carefully.

The slide pins have a shape which exactly matches the slots. There is a narrow edge, and a wide edge. If they are matched correctly as you install them, they will start easily, at an angle, by hand. Once started they will tap in easily with a hammer.

I prefer anti seize compound, used very carefully. It is extremely messy, but it does not dry up, and lasts almost forever. Don't get it anywhere except where you want it, because it smears, spreads, etc. I place a dab of it on the pin itself, in the center section, with one finger. Wipe off the finger immediately, and install the pin.

Check the caliper's pistons and seals carefully. If they don't look perfect, replace the calipers. Here they are about $15 each, which is a bargain. Rotors were reasonable also.

Replace as much brake fluid as possible. If you aren't very easy on brakes, use the best fluid you find. I like the Valvoline DOT 4 fluid, about $5 for a quart. As important as brakes are, I opt for the best fluid I can find.
Good luck,
Don W

 

[Tony H]

I put a little grease on the Pins and after running a screwdriver up and down the Caliper where the Pads sit (to get crap out of there) I put the slightest film of grease there.
Logic is that the Pads have to move easily and so does the Pins as the Caliper moves.