Breaks Rotors and Drums Question

[poconosms1]

I have inspection this month. The last time I had my brakes done were in 12/00, and I generally need them done every other year. Last time, mechanic told me he could not cut the rotors again.

Money being tight, I was wondering if I can just replace the pads and shoes myself without having to cut the rotors or turn the drums before I take the vehicle to inspection? I suspect that my breaking may "shimmy" a little until the new pads and shoes wore to the existing pattern.

Is this doable? I used to do my own auto work years ago when I had a Subaru. Will I need a special tool to turn the break calipers
?

 

[chris c]

front brakes [pads only] on your explorer is about the quickest / easiest brake job you can do. The calipers are held on by two pins. knock those pins out, pull off the caliper and put the new pads in. be sure to clean the calipers where the pins sit and grease the pins before reassembly. they say to use new pins every time but i have had my hubs apart many times and reassembled with the same pins...

if you have done any drum brake before your explorers setup is just the same. if you have any doubt, take off both rear wheels and drums, do one side at a time and leave the other side together so you can see where everything goes.

the rear axle has a lip that holds the drum on. they can be a little tough to get off if they haven't been off in a while. what i found easiest was to pry the drum away from the backing plate and clamp a pair of needle nose vice grips onto the backing plate. i used 3 pairs of needle nose vice grips placing on every 45 degrees or so.

 

[poconosms1]

but do I have to have the drums turned and the rotors cut each time. I never did it with my Subaru. The only thing I noticed different was the breaks would shimmy for a short time period.

 

[chris c]

rear drums are less prone to give you a shimmy or a pulse as rotors. they can drag a little at slow speeds but they would have to be considerably warped for that.

i was under the impression that you just wanted to slip new pads in the calipers. if you are going to take the rotor off [you cannot cut it on the truck] you might as well put new rotors on. they are cheap enough.

this link is for the installation of manual hubs but it will show you how the rotor is held on. depending on your mileage you might as well do bearings also.

http://4x4cyberstore.com/website/install_hubs_01.html

 

[poconosms1]

I am trying to avoid the cost of replacing the rotors and drums right before christmas. I plan on only doing the shoes and pads. I havn't done a "complete brake job" in 15 years. My mechanic always said that you had to turn the drums and cut the rotors. I think he was saying that for insurance purposes and to eliminate the initial vibrations and the new pads "wore" to the old rotors.

Can I use a clamp with wood to protect the piston on the caliper when i compress it?

 

[chris c]

you don't even need to... you can just press that piston in. you won't damage it, it's steel...

rotors and drums are cut or turned down for several reasons, one of which would be if they are warped [other being to resurface it or remove the galzing or remove a groove that was caused by a worn or broken pad].

if you are having pedal pulse or a shimmy when you hit the brake now, new pads and shoes only won't solve that. as long as your rotors are not warped, the pads will bed in and you will be fine.

 

[poconosms1]

thanks,