Broken brake line - empty reservoir

[mkd8919]

The other day I was getting off the interstate, and when I went to brake the pedal went all the way to the floor. I got out and checked and found a puddle of brake fluid under the rear driver's side wheel. I was able to top off the MBC and limp home. I took it in to the shop the next day (friday), as I was traveling out of town that night for the weekend. The shop said they couldn't get the bleeders open, and wanted to replace the wheel cylinders and calipers, and all the lines for $1000. I opted out and found a ride for the weekend. The shop left the ex in their lot for me. I picked it up when I got back, I got it home and found one of the reservoirs empty, which I was trying to avoid by topping it off. I added some brake fluid and pumped the brakes a few times but I'm not seeing anything out of the rear where it was leaking before. How much extra work am I going to have to do since they let that reservoir run dry? Will I have to bleed the MBC and ABS pump?

 

[2stroke]

Assuming you have a free day, I would buy a roll of brake line, borrow or rent a brake line flare tool, and buy a rear brake hose. You can bleed brakes from the fittings, but it is so much easier with the bleeder. Wheel cylinders are like $12 each, so I would go ahead and get them.

 

[FR-425]

Your talk'n $50 repair.

The reason the shop want's so much is that if you have a failed steel line they are not going to patch (repair) it, only replace ALL lines to cover their liability.

Not a difficult repair though.

 

[Bobmbx]

"Will I have to bleed the MBC and ABS pump?"

Oh yeah. But its not that difficult. After you make your repairs, bleeding should only take an hour or less. The ABS module is always a bugger, but its doable. Lots of posts here to help you through it.

 

[FR-425]

Trick I use to bleed the ABS is to put on a broken signal generator.

As you drive (slowly is recommended here) the gap in the generator vanes causes the ABS to activate... thump, thump, thump.

Takes about 30 thumps and the air is out.

Then put your good rotor on.

After that bleed as normal to finish up.

 

[mkd8919]

Thanks for all the responses so far! To clarify a bit, the shop said the front hoses were both cracked and about to fail, and they said they had to replace those due to liability. Since they couldn't get any of the bleeders loose, that's why they racked up the charges. I realized how much the parts themselves cost compared to how much they were asking, which is why I decided to do it myself.

My plan is to first identify if it is the rear rubber hose or the metal line that has failed. The shop didn't tell me which one it was, and I haven't had time to check. Now that all the fluid has leaked out, is there an easy way to check if it's the hose or the line? It was leaking a LOT of fluid so I think it will be obvious when I get under there. I have just been waiting for the rain here to stop. From there I was planning on trying to get at least one of the rear bleeders loose. If I can't I'll just replace the wheel cylinder(s).

What I'm most curious about is the process of bleeding after I get the line repaired. I have bleed brakes before using the normal two person method, but I have never had a master cylinder go partially empty before. At this point I don't think I'll be able to find a helper, so I was planning on picking up a vacuum bleeder, like the one at HF. I have heard good things about them. Am I going to have to do anything special to bleed to Master cylinder? I have heard of people bench bleeding, but that is when they are totally replacing one.

I was thinking about the ABS and realized I'm not sure if I have rear ABS or just front. I have discs in the front and drum in the rear. Did the '93 XLTs 4x4 have 4w abs? I really like FR-425s idea, but remembered I don't have discs in the rear.

 

[2stroke]

I don't know if Nebraska salts roads, but I'm never able to get fittings out anyways. Maybe they fare better down south. the rubber hose for the rear can be had for as little as $7, and not much more for the better ones. I cant tell you for sure if you have 4 wheel ABS for sure. I'm thinking mine was just front, but I got rid of mine. Just look if your rear line bypasses it or not. I have heard the best bleeders are the ones that go on the master cylinder and suck fluid from the bleeder valve. Kind of a backwards method to the conventional method. You will be ok with just pumping your brakes to bleed them, It might just take a little longer than normal.

 

[FR-425]

You put the rotor on the front for the ABS broken vane trick..... ... .

The rear tone ring is in the diff.

 

[mkd8919]

So I got the rear bleeders loose without issue. I plan on replacing them because they are super rusty. I found that the line that rusted out is the metal line going from the rear "T" to the drivers side. For now, I can just replace that section correct? It looked like there is a fitting on the T so it doesn't look super difficult.

 

[gmanpaint]

Congrats on getting the bleeders off. Yes, you can just replace that line. I use the coated lines for replacement to help against road grime/corrosives.

Makes you wonder about the shop, and them wanting to replace all the lines. If it was just the small line on the rear axle, they could have just replaced it, and bled the system. Hard to trust people these days.

With your rig being over 20 yrs old, and you have to bleed it, if it was me, I would spend a little extra and replace the calipers, and all 4 soft lines now. The seals on the calipers and rubber lines dry rot & weaken. Any particles from the rusted broken line might be trapped in the rear calipers (or elsewhere).

If you do all that, you might as well change out the front bearings and rotor seals, or install new rotors if worn.

I have found that a slow drip gravity bleed is simple, and works best for me.