broken d35 bearing cap..

[tdavis]

My gear shop called, to let me know a bearing cap in my d35 broke.

So far, they have been told it's a set of caps AND housing, and it's a dealer item, else you buy a set used.

Does anyone know if this is true?

If so, I'm going to have the TTB cut off and replaced with a d44/radius arms/coils from either an EB or a F150.

 

[Kampy]

Tom, originally the caps are machined with the housing to ensure proper crush on the bearing races, If you found another cap and used it the race might not have the proper preload and spin inside the case. It's kind of iffy at best. A good machine shop should be able to cut the cap and rebore it ( just like resizing a connecting rod) and then it should be fine.

The other option is probably the best one though, go ahead and do the swap.

 

[SteveVB]

Tom, dont know the answer for sure but thinking about it -it makes sense. The cap and housing are most likely line bored to ensure the fit to the housing. So they would be a matched set.

The D44 is a good idea anyway - that is just one of the better reasons to get it done!!

 

[tdavis]

Dang kampy, that sounds like a damn good reason!

So, I'm headed towards a d44 simply because the d35 case/caps would be almost as much.

Oh well.. Come on saturday!

 

[tdavis]

Folks, whatever you do, don't damage the front d35 case or bearing caps.

I stopped at the friendly neighborhood ford dealership, and found out they ARE a matched set, and you replace all three parts.

$450 just for the case, caps, and bolts. Yes, I can get that cheaper by buying a used case/caps, but it's still $250-$300 range with everything else needed (seals, bolts..)

So off comes the TTB's, on goes a solid d44

 

[mattadams]

Originally posted by tdavis

So off comes the TTB's, on goes a solid d44

No fair, everyones going to solid dana 44... wish I had the funds to do it, should've done that in the first place rather then doing the stupidlift.

 

[tdavis]

Originally posted by mattadams


No fair, everyones going to solid dana 44... wish I had the funds to do it, should've done that in the first place rather then doing the stupidlift.

HA! Too BAD!

Anyway, here's the part causing all the problems:

$450 for that part, from the dealership.. Yikes!

 

[sholzee]

Tdavis

I'm a newbie here is that you front diff? What caused it to break and did it make any noises. My 92 is making funny noises when turning in 2 wheel drive. I am replacing the front ujoints and when I turn the pass stub axle in the diff housing it feels kinda rough. All three u joints on the front end were seized and with 200 # of body weight on them they would not pivot. I just hope the front diff is ok we haven't used the four wheel drive since Jan. Also how can I tell if ny front is a Dana 28 or 35 no tags and I have a pinch bolt upper ball joint threaded lower ball joint.