building new center console - any advice?

[jgilbs]

building new switch panel/console

Hey all,
I am done with school for the semester, so i have like a month of nothing to do. During that time, I figured it would be a good time to build a new center console for my truck(not replace the stock one, just extend it all the way to the HVAC controls) Since I am a firefighter and a geek in general, I have loads of equipment I need to mount. I have my Arrowstik control, a scanner, a CB, loads of switches, and a 120v receptacle I would like to incorporate into it. Also, since I will be adding a lot of electronics, I thought inside the console would be a good place to run a 4ga wire from the batt to a fuseblock inside the unit. I am buying a new 220v welder, so I will prob use 3/16" steel and paint it flat black when I am done. Does anyone have any experience or tips for me? I want to basically use 2 vertical steel plates on either side of the trans hump, and add a lip to them at the top. I would then just use custom fabbed "faceplates" to attach to the top, which would double as a mounting point for all the equipment. I am not sure how to mount the equipment on the faceplates though. I am thinking of taking the rectangular facepieces and cutting them so the cut looks like an H on its side, then folding down the 2 flaps it creates. I would then drill holes in the sides of these "flaps" so I could bolt them to the radios like their brackets attach.
Sorry if im not clear on what i want to do, but any advice is appreciated, and i will have tons of pics after i start so i can share with anyone else doing anything like this.

 

[Charlie's_93EB]

hum, sounds good i really do not have any ideas. you said your have:

I have my Arrowstik control, a scanner, a CB, loads of switches, and a 120v receptacle

It might help if you take and post a pic of that stuff and with a drawing maybe?

 

[jgilbs]

im gonna make a cardboard mockup tomorrow so i can see how i like the shape, how much surface area ill have, and how it will effect my knees (im gonna make it so i can spread my legs while driving and not have a corner digging into the corner of my knee) ill get some pics tmo. also, does anyone know where i can get a kussmaul auto eject shoreline for cheap? i have seen them for $50 but cant find anywhere. for those of you that dont know what that is, goto http://www.kussmaul.com/ejector.htm and take a look.

 

[jgilbs]

i just finished my schamtic for the shoreline wiring. This will allow me to be on shoreline power and have the blockheater running as usual. all interior 120v receptacles(i have 4) will run off of shoreline power so i can charge electronics all night in the car without draining the battery. but as soon as the shoreline is ejected, the receptacles will switch to onboard power, so as to continue uninterrupted operation. also, there are 2 indicator lights for the console that will indicate the current mode: on shoreline power, or on internal inverter power. I also included a switch for a block heater override. This will allow me to continue to run the block heater without the shoreline(dont know how well this will work, but i guess we'll see) this is key for if i am parked somewhere without access to a power outlet but if i want to try to warm my car up quicker. here is the schamatic for all of this(all relays rated for 120v AC, except for block heater power override - coil is rated for 12v DC, poles rated for AC):

 

[CDW6212R]

Do you have a sunroof? You might add an overhead console to spread things out, or make it more convenient.
If you are adding that much stuff, have you considered a trickle charger to maintain the battery, since you plan access to AC power? Add more grounds, to your power location, as well as say, the kick panels. Good luck,
DonW

 

[jgilbs]

got the design done, got a new welder and 220v wired in. now the only problem is i dont know where to get sheet metal to build it with. any suggestions?

 

[Bill Kemp]

A heating & cooling shop would have the type sheets that are used for furnace vents.

 

[jgilbs]

but wouldnt that be too flimsy? i am looking for a little thicker material

 

[CDW6212R]

Can you weld aluminum? The gauge of aluminum that you would need would be much lighter. Otherwise, maybe you can build a frame from light sheet metal, and have someone fiberglass over it.
DW

 

[jgilbs]

i cant weld aluminum - i have a cheapo stick welder (doesnt Al need TIG welding?) so im just trying to weigh my options. HVAC ducting is prob the thickest i can weld - im gonna goto a HVAC shop tmo, so ill just get more metal than i need (cant be that much $$) and play around with it.

 

[Charlie's_93EB]

just an idea, you might try to find a cheap used truck box, and cut it up. dimond plate always looks good, IMHO

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

HVAC ducting is galvanized - you don't want to weld that, it's VERY hazardous to your health.

Look in the yellow pages for steel fabricators, and start calling around.

 

[jgilbs]

i dont want to use diamond plate because i dont like the shininess in my truck. also, the switches wont mount flush with the "propeller" design. guess im gonna have to find some fabrication shops.

 

[CDW6212R]

Isn't the diamond plate flat on one side? I have handled pieces from tractor trailers, and I think they were flat on one side. It also might have been stainless steel, which is also hard to weld.
DW

 

[jgilbs]

yea, it has a flat side, but i figured it was aluminum? i guess im gonna have to find a yellow pages and call around and see where i can get some normal steel.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, you might call a machine shop or two for sources. Good luck,
DW

 

[jgilbs]

found my new favorite store - Scott's Wood and Metal in Aurora. They were the most helpful, knowledgable people I've ever met. If anyone lives near Aurora, I HIGHLY recommend them. I got a 2x6 ft piece of drop (scrap metal) for $10. I have gathered up all the materials and pics i'll post pics of when I start building.

 

[jgilbs]

so i finally finished it! i am very happy with the results - looks great and is VERY sturdy(i could stand on the frame with no instability felt and i weigh 230+) im gonna start a new thread with a writeup when i get some time and after all the electronics are wired up, but heres a pic of the finished product in the meantime. what do y'all think?


the area under the CB that looks white actually looks normal under normal light - dont know why it came out like that - the entire thing is flat black, and i used textured spray paint(gonna have to paint the screws or get some black ones), so its got kind of a rough feel to it - it almost feels powdercoated. That pic doesnt show it, but I put a mic holder on the right side of the console, near the front(toward dash), so my CB mike is out of the way, but easily in reach when I need it. the only problem is i broke 2 taps while tapping the holes for the faceplate for the scanner(right above the switches) so thats why 2 corners dont have screws(gotta find a tap extractor for that though)

 

[Heavymentill]

KICK @SS!!

 

[Josh S.]

That looks real nice dude...is that replacing your center console or just going in front of it? Pics when installed will be cool