Buying an Explorer tonight!!

[koda2000]

I am OCD I like my **** to work lol. (Even tho it doesn't rain in southern cali) when I hit the switch I get zero noise, no clicking no buzzing. However when I push the button in I will hear the windshield fluid motor. As for the flares I might take the fronts off. Like you said they didn't come with then anyway right?

well, when your ready, i'll tell you how to get to the wiper motor to see what's up. as far as the fender flares, i prefer the way it looks w/out them.

 

[ALEXplorer24]

well, when your ready, i'll tell you how to get to the wiper motor to see what's up. as far as the fender flares, i prefer the way it looks w/out them.

Thanks man! Yea ill need some advice on little things. I think my first issue to fix will be getting a keyless remote and programming it. Any advice on where to start other then the obvious?

 

[koda2000]

i see in the pic that you have the keypad on the drivers door. did the previous owner give you the factory code for it? if not, did the truck come with the owner's manual case? if so there should be a small plastic card inside with the 5 digit key pad number on it. this will be the factory code, which can not be erased. you can also set your own personal 5 digit code. if you don't have the factory code i can tell you how to get it for free off the RAP module. some dealerships will charge you $40 to give it to you.

as far as key fob remotes, if you don't have any you can buy them on ebay for around $5. you can also buy a set of 2 key fob remotes and an extra transponder key for around $16. you nave to have 2 keys to make additional keys without going to the dealer or a locksmith. to program remotes, there is a procedure in the owner's manual to program up to 5 remotes. if you don't have an owner's manual i can give you the programming procedure.

 

[ALEXplorer24]

i see in the pic that you have the keypad on the drivers door. did the previous owner give you the factory code for it? if not, did the truck come with the owner's manual case? if so there should be a small plastic card inside with the 5 digit key pad number on it. this will be the factory code, which can not be erased. you can also set your own personal 5 digit code. if you don't have the factory code i can tell you how to get it for free off the RAP module. some dealerships will charge you $40 to give it to you.

as far as key fob remotes, if you don't have any you can buy them on ebay for around $5. you can also buy a set of 2 key fob remotes and an extra transponder key for around $16. you nave to have 2 keys to make additional keys without going to the dealer or a locksmith. to program remotes, there is a procedure in the owner's manual to program up to 5 remotes. if you don't have an owner's manual i can give you the programming procedure.

Here is my situation. I don't have the owners manual and I only have 1 key and its not an original mercury key. Is there any hope?

 

[pbnj22]

Here is my situation. I don't have the owners manual and I only have 1 key and its not an original mercury key. Is there any hope?

Open up your trunk.. Open the compartment to your left where the jack is... I believe the code is there... That is where I found mine from a thread here.. I'll try to find the thread..

 

[pbnj22]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195398

 

[koda2000]

as posted, you can find the 5 digit keypad code on the sticker on the RAP module. it can be hard to see, but use a good flashlight and see if you can read it. the numbers are quite large. if worse comes to worse, you can remove the plastic trim to see it more easily as a last resort.

in regard to transponder keys, you have to have at least 2 to be able to program additional keys yourself. if you lose the one key you have, you'll have to have the car towed to the dealership, or have a locksmith (with the right equipment) come to you to make new ones. i would purchase the 2 remote fob and a transponder key deal off ebay for $16 and have your dealer/locksmith cut and program the new key. my Ford dealer charges $40. you can get a clone of your one key done at WalMart or ACE Hardware, but the cost is about the same (or more).

i have an extra 2001 Explorer owner's manual set in the zippered case. there are no differences between the Ford and Mercury manuals or 2000/2001 model years that i've found. if you're interested i'll sell it for $20 or you can try ebay.

also, check to make sure that the cruise control recall has been done. if it hasn't, your dealer will add the fused pigtail for free.

 

[ALEXplorer24]

^^ thanks for the input Koda. However I have a more immediate issue I just discovered and it seems to be a VERY common issue. Drivers and front passenger door locking/unlocking issues.

The Drivers door will open but the lock seems to either get stuck in the unlock position or the lock position. When I go to manual lock or unlock the door with the key I get nothing.

Front Passenger door will not lock with the lock button I have to push the pin down manually with my finger and then it locks just fine, all other doors and rear hatch operate just fine

 

[koda2000]

^^ thanks for the input Koda. However I have a more immediate issue I just discovered and it seems to be a VERY common issue. Drivers and front passenger door locking/unlocking issues.

The Drivers door will open but the lock seems to either get stuck in the unlock position or the lock position. When I go to manual lock or unlock the door with the key I get nothing.

Front Passenger door will not lock with the lock button I have to push the pin down manually with my finger and then it locks just fine, all other doors and rear hatch operate just fine

regarding door locking/unlocking problems, there are many threads on this subject. there can be linkage/lock lubrication problems, faulty or disconnected lock actuators, broken wires in the driver's side door jam wire cylinder, corroded wire splice under the carpet on the rear driver's side carpet. all are pretty easy fixes once you figure out where the problem is.

 

[ALEXplorer24]

regarding door locking/unlocking problems, there are many threads on this subject. there can be linkage/lock lubrication problems, faulty or disconnected lock actuators, broken wires in the driver's side door jam wire cylinder, corroded wire splice under the carpet on the rear driver's side carpet. all are pretty easy fixes once you figure out where the problem is.

Thanks man I gotta look into it. It seems like everyday something else is going wrong. Today I had a dead battery, I jumped her and she started right up but as I was driving my ABS light started going on and off and at the same time the radio would turn on and off and the speedo would jump all over the place, once I drove at higher speeds the car started surging. I quickly pulled over and let it sit for about 5 mins. I then proceeded to accelerate back onto the highway and everything was fine. No ABS light, radio was fine, no crazy speedo and no surging. However once I turned the car off and came back to it at the end of the night the batt was dead again. Had to leave it parked over night.

I'm going to swing by autozone tomorrow and figure out if in fact it's a dead battery or my alternator is shot.

I did some research on the other issue and it seems like it might be a speed sensor issue. I'm just a little in the dark about it completely going away.

Just more to add to the list. Lets see how it goes, I just hope I didn't get a lemon

 

[koda2000]

sorry you're having problems, but you've got to expect a 13 year old vehicle to have a few problems.

the surging, speedo and abs light could very well be the VSS. in your truck it's in the rear axle housing, is easily changed and runs about $20 on RockAuto. probably a bit more at a local auto parts store.

the battery situation could also cause some of the problems you're experiences. if the battery is bad it can ruin the alternator, so by all means have AutoZone check out your charging system. let us know what you find out.

does the radio turn off, or is it that the display goes blank? if the display is going blank and the radio continues to play, this is a super common problem with the high-end radio and can be repaired for $45 with a life-time guaranty. all 3 of my trucks have had this problem.

if you don't know when it was last changed, i'd also change the fuel filter. if you've never changed one of these Ford fuel filters, the first time can be an exercise in frustration, as there is a technique to it and you have to have a good quality tool. the first time i did one it took be about 2 hours over 2 days. now i can do it in minutes.

 

[ALEXplorer24]

sorry you're having problems, but you've got to expect a 13 year old vehicle to have a few problems.

the surging, speedo and abs light could very well be the VSS. in your truck it's in the rear axle housing, is easily changed and runs about $20 on RockAuto. probably a bit more at a local auto parts store.

the battery situation could also cause some of the problems you're experiences. if the battery is bad it can ruin the alternator, so by all means have AutoZone check out your charging system. let us know what you find out.

does the radio turn off, or is it that the display goes blank? if the display is going blank and the radio continues to play, this is a super common problem with the high-end radio and can be repaired for $45 with a life-time guaranty. all 3 of my trucks have had this problem.

if you don't know when it was last changed, i'd also change the fuel filter. if you've never changed one of these Ford fuel filters, the first time can be an exercise in frustration, as there is a technique to it and you have to have a good quality tool. the first time i did one it took be about 2 hours over 2 days. now i can do it in minutes.

Threw a new battery. Cleaned the terminals (they were really corroded) started right up. No problems since the new batt. Tried to have autozone check the batt, but they said they couldn't get a reading and I need to replace the wires because they were pretty corroded underneath the rubber part. The alternator is refurbished and looks some what new so it much have been replaced recently. I think the dead batt was the main culprit in the abs radio surging issue.

Thoughts in needing to replace the wires or
Is that someone I could possibly save by doing some cleaning.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

You have done pretty good so far, don't be down because of repairs, that is to be expected from a used vehicle. I cannot tell you how many hours I have put into my truck since I got it, to make it the way I want it, and it still is not even there.

This is my explorer when I got it....

This is it now, a little over 2 years later, and countless hours of work, including new shocks, leaf springs, fuel pump, Radiator, and many more things...

The best part is, is that I have a vehicle that I want, and I have no payments.

Good luck, I have a feeling you will be very happy with your purchase.

 

[koda2000]

if the OE sheet metal battery cable ends are corroded to the point where they can't achieve the necessary clamping force (BTW baking soda and water clean up battery corrosion really well. make a slurry in a cup and soak them) but if the actual cables/wires are still ok (not corroded and lumpy) you can just cut the old ends off and install some replacement style, bolt on terminal ends for around $5. did Auotzone test your alternator output? it should read 14+ volts across the battery terminals w/engine idling and accessories/lights off. if they didn't test the alternator, go back and have them do it now that you have a good battery. your alternator is probably fine, but if it's not, you'll have another dead battery in a few days.

don't be discouraged. pretty soon you get the bugs worked out and you should be very happy with your new toy. this forum is very helpful and can save you lots of time and money.

 

[ALEXplorer24]

Thanks guys!! I know I know, I gotta fix up the little things. The battery didn't bother me, it was the weird issues after I jumped it that freaked me out. Ill have the alternator checked tomorrow and the terminals clap perfectly. Just gotta do some more corrosion cleaning.

Over all I'm very happy with my purchase and I can't wait to make this truck mine! You guys have been amazing and I'm happy to he part of this community.

Eventually I'll have to start a build thread and document my process.

Ill update everyone on the alternator once its checked out.

 

[pbnj22]

Thanks guys!! I know I know, I gotta fix up the little things. The battery didn't bother me, it was the weird issues after I jumped it that freaked me out. Ill have the alternator checked tomorrow and the terminals clap perfectly. Just gotta do some more corrosion cleaning.

Over all I'm very happy with my purchase and I can't wait to make this truck mine! You guys have been amazing and I'm happy to he part of this community.

Eventually I'll have to start a build thread and document my process.

Ill update everyone on the alternator once its checked out.

Awesome! decided on any mods for your build yet!?

 

[ALEXplorer24]

Awesome! decided on any mods for your build yet!?

Not exactly sure yet. However I'd like to work on all the little issues first, so ill be tackling the door locking problems, purchasing and programming some key fobs, replacing the spare tire wire and a spare tire (its been cut) and fixing the rear wiping problem.

Once I take the front fender flares off and have some free time, ill do a complete detail, clay bar, compound, swirl remover, wax, glaze etc, and shampoo all the carpets. I also have to clean the engine and engine bay.

Once all that stuff is in order ill prob start off with simple mods. Install a New double din headunit with blue tooth and SAT radio and prob but some 4300k hids for headlights and fogs. I'd love to throw some wheels on her but I don't know yet, haven't thought that far ahead lol

While we are on the subject. So they sell crystal clear fog light housings? By crystal clear I mean a leans that matches the headlights on the 2000 mountaineer.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Not exactly sure yet. However I'd like to work on all the little issues first, so ill be tackling the door locking problems, purchasing and programming some key fobs, replacing the spare tire wire and a spare tire (its been cut) and fixing the rear wiping problem.

Once I take the front fender flares off and have some free time, ill do a complete detail, clay bar, compound, swirl remover, wax, glaze etc, and shampoo all the carpets. I also have to clean the engine and engine bay.

Once all that stuff is in order ill prob start off with simple mods. Install a New double din headunit with blue tooth and SAT radio and prob but some 4300k hids for headlights and fogs. I'd love to throw some wheels on her but I don't know yet, haven't thought that far ahead lol

While we are on the subject. So they sell crystal clear fog light housings? By crystal clear I mean a leans that matches the headlights on the 2000 mountaineer.

Good luck on making the rear wiper work properly, in my honest opinion it is useless, There is a thread on the site somewhere on getting rid of it, that is the route I am taking. As for the fog light housings, I don't believe there are any OEM style replacements that just bolt in that have clear lenses, You may have to go aftermarket for that.

 

[koda2000]

regarding the rear wiper, there are many threads and solutions offered, but the real problem with the rear wiper (once the motor is working properly) is the motor mounting method and that the sheet metal of the lift-gate is too flimsy. the combination of the weak sheet metal, the rubber bushing mounting method and the pressure exerted by the wiper arm spring, cause the motor to be pushed to the left. if you stand behind your truck and look down at where the shaft protrudes from lift-gate, you'll notice that it pushed to the left of center. this left-shift causes the wiper arm to not contact the window in the middle of its sweep. grinding down the stops on the wiper arm helps, but the real solution would be to somehow brace the motor so it doesn't get pushed to the left. i've had some success by putting a spacer under the right-most motor mounting bolt, but at best i'd call it a 85% solution. i've also tried grinding down the wiper arm stops with about the same success. it's just a bad design. after playing with it on 4 different vehicles, i've decided to ignore it. if you come up with a better fix, please let us know.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

regarding the rear wiper, there are many threads and solutions offered, but the real problem with the rear wiper (once the motor is working properly) is the motor mounting method and that the sheet metal of the lift-gate is too flimsy. the combination of the weak sheet metal, the rubber bushing mounting method and the pressure exerted by the wiper arm spring, cause the motor to be pushed to the left. if you stand behind your truck and look down at where the shaft protrudes from lift-gate, you'll notice that it pushed to the left of center. this left-shift causes the wiper arm to not contact the window in the middle of its sweep. grinding down the stops on the wiper arm helps, but the real solution would be to somehow brace the motor so it doesn't get pushed to the left. i've had some success by putting a spacer under the right-most motor mounting bolt, but at best i'd call it a 85% solution. i've also tried grinding down the wiper arm stops with about the same success. it's just a bad design. after playing with it on 4 different vehicles, i've decided to ignore it. if you come up with a better fix, please let us know.

Who uses their rear wiper anyway, right? LOL. Like you said, There is probably a good way to fix it, BUT, it that will consist of re engineering the whole mount for the motor, which, for me is not worth it, for something I use maybe twice a year. But hey, OP if you can get something to work for you let us know, I probably won't be getting rid of it until Spring time anyway.