Calling all auto locking hub experts

[FJK]

Decide to follow a poster's maintainence procedure & check / replace that small end bearing in the end of the hub. Got the snap ring off, but the spline section & the surrounding 3 dog ring would only pull up so far & then stop. So, what's the trick to disassembling the hub. Also, what is the order of the components within the hub. All I see is the internal/external spline sleeve, the 3 dog ring, the small bearing, what else ??? My hubs where fairly heavily greased, as was that blocker ring with garter spring that was still on the end of the spindle. I kind of elimated much of the exterior grease & lubed hub & outter spindle with some gear lube as per Dr. Bob's article. Comments, suggestions please.
BTW this is a 94 exp.
Thanks, FJK

 

[DOGMAN]

Sorry to be blunt, but I would replace the auto hubs on your 94 with the Warn manual hubs. The auto hubs are simply a poor design, and will break when you need them most. Many on this site have gone with the Warn manuals, and I can't remember one that said that they regretted it. Sure, you have to get out and engage them, but really, that's not a big deal.

Not trying to spend your money, just trying to lend experience to the matter. Not sure on how much the Warn's cost now (I bought mine a long time ago for about $135), but somewhere between $100-150. Worth every penny, in my and many others book.

 

[jimmiecakes]

You'd need to remove the snap ring that holds the three dog ring in place and then remove the snap ring that holds the spacer in place and then remove the centre gear.... only to find that there just ain't much in there. The business end is all stuck to the end of the spindle.

I agree with Dogman, reinstall the snap ring and pry your wallet out of your pocket. Get the manual hubs and don't look back. If you expect problem on the trail ahead, lock in your hubs when you're high and dry, engage the T-case when you need.

 

[Bionc Marsh.]

Ditto on what the Dogman said. The auto hubs are not worth the time it takes to remove them, let alone putting them back on.:thumbdwn:

My .02.

 

[FJK]

No question about it, manual hubs are the way to go, especially their reliability & cost effectiveness when compared to auto hubs. I will definitely go with manuals if & when the autos become more trouble than they are worth. The only reason I'm in to them is an occasional occurrance when they don't stay DIS-engaged in 2wd & you get that clattering noise. However, the vehicle is not used for severe service off-roading. I would still like comments on how the hubs & spindle ends need to be lubricated: that is a layer of grease or a thin film of grease, or fairly clean with a coating of gear lube, or ???. Would the lubrication differ auto versus manual hubs? Also to jimmiecakes, I must be not seeing the snap rings on the 3 dog ring & center sleeve. Are these ID of OD rings? Does something need to be compressed to remove or install the snap rings?
So far, after cleaning, lubing, "I think" properly indexing the hubs during installation ( so they install flat against the rotor without spring preload to compress), they seem to be operating fine. Addional comments / thoughts?
Thanks, FJK

 

[jimbo74]

fjk....change them out now... i thought...oh i will replace mine when mine fail....guess what? after paying $450 for an off road recovery with a wrecker i decided i should have spent the hundred or two bucks in the first place.....