Can’t get blend door out. | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Can’t get blend door out.

lftwng4

New Member
Joined
October 22, 2017
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
City, State
Findlay, OH
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
‘97 Explorer with the typical blend door issue. But I can’t get it out of the heater box thing. Cut a hole in the bottom, and even one in the front, but I believe only the top of the door is broken only enough that the actuator just turns freely in the hole(actually, it moves to “hot” but not back to “cold”. Obviously, I can’t see the top of the door peg to visualize the damage, but the actuator slips in easily, where as it fits snugly on the new door. Anyways, I can’t seem to pry the old door out, and I’m hesitant to really put the hurt on it. Plus, it’s awkward to get a pry bar or screwdriver on it, also curious how much trouble it’s going to be to put the new one in if I have to break the old one to get it out. Saw something about the dremel cutting the bottom peg off, seems a bit difficult to get it in there. Also saw mention of channel locks to break it, but again, will I even be able to wedge the new one in provided I get the old one out? Any insight is appreciated.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I have never done this repair myself but I have a vague recollection that a repair kit comes with foil (HVAC) tape like you would cut out the side of the box to get the door out, then tape it back together. Do not proceed on this info until someone else chimes in.
 






I didn't have to cut or break anything on the old door to get it out (I did cut an access hole to reach the overall area). Once you remove the actuator, you should be able push the blend door up just enough to barely squeeze the bottom pin from its pivot. Ditto with installing the new door. I think I put some soap on the new door's bottom pin to make it easier to slip into place, though.

It's a tight fit, but just keep trying. If one way doesn't work, try a different one. You shouldn't need a tool to force the door in, imo.
 






So, I ended up having to break the old door at the bottom pin to get it out. It seemed there would be no way the new door would fit, as I couldn’t push it up high enough to slip the bottom pin in the box, and slide it over to the bottom “well” and the box wouldn’t give me any flex. I needed about 5/8” that was not going to happen. I took my dremel and cut a small notch in the side of the well, slipped the bottom pin in, and wrapped a small metal fuel injector hose clamp around the well, which covered the notch perfectly, and seems to fit perfectly. Works like new. I don’t know how I could have ever gotten the door in just by muscling it in, as I had zero flex or spread on the box itself, and very little room to work. I think it also helped a bunch to take the passenger seat out, as I’m not a small guy, and it’s relatively easy to remove. Glad it’s done, and thanks for the input.
 






So, I ended up having to break the old door at the bottom pin to get it out. It seemed there would be no way the new door would fit, as I couldn’t push it up high enough to slip the bottom pin in the box, and slide it over to the bottom “well” and the box wouldn’t give me any flex. I needed about 5/8” that was not going to happen. I took my dremel and cut a small notch in the side of the well, slipped the bottom pin in, and wrapped a small metal fuel injector hose clamp around the well, which covered the notch perfectly, and seems to fit perfectly. Works like new. I don’t know how I could have ever gotten the door in just by muscling it in, as I had zero flex or spread on the box itself, and very little room to work. I think it also helped a bunch to take the passenger seat out, as I’m not a small guy, and it’s relatively easy to remove. Glad it’s done, and thanks for the input.

Lftwng4, I am in the same boat as you with blend door issues. I noticed a clicking sound when I adjust the manual temp control knob so I bought a replacement actuator but cant get to the back screw ( closest to the front of vehicle). Did you replace yours? if so how did you manage it?
 






Mine did not have screws to hold it down, it had 3 rubber cone shaped plugs which made it infinitely easier to pry out and put back in. I've seen plenty on youtube on how to reach the screws, if you do a search.
 






Mine has a black frame with screws that has post with the rubber cones but they did not budge. Did you just pry up on the bottom of the actuator to release it from the cones?
 






Yeah, I just stuck a thin screwdriver next to the front post on the right side and carefully pried up on it, then used a longer screwdriver to get the one in the back
 






Back
Top