Can I run without a thermostat? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Can I run without a thermostat?

Well, you've seen all the warnings about the t-stat, and it's a free country, so why don't you just try it for a week and see what happens? You can always put one back in.

What A/C components did you replace? When was the last time you looked at the front of the condensor? Mine was doing the exact same thing. It has a tranny cooler (stock with the auto trannys) which had leaking rubber hoses (connecting the metal tranny lines under the radiator up to the tranny cooler behind the grille, in front of the condensor). I had so much fluid and road grime there, I probably had no air flow. Since I replaced those rubber tubes and cleaned out the condensor fins, it is 100% better. And yes, I had replaced everything else under the sun before that too.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 



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Beyond some engine issue like head gaskets etc, the fan is the only thing left I could suggest. Have you changed both the clutch fan, and the fan blade? The early models had two fan blade choices, one had more blades.

I'd suggest less than 20% antifreeze, I like Water Weter also, and an electric fan. My 99 SOHC engine runs between about 192 and 202 almost all of the time. My electric fan runs almost never while moving at a decent speed, and less than half of the time when idling. I drive 30 miles in three hours at work, I see slow speeds, and high throttle often.

If an engine issue is the problem, that would be more important to do. A better aluminum radiator might be a final choice. Good luck,
 






I did all that.
 






My RPMs are at like 950 with the AC on in park(closed loop) but every minute it jumps 100 until its at 1100-1150 then thats when the temp needle moves quick. When it gets up there on the gauge the RPMs also start to surge.

Does yours act similar?

No mine idles at about 750 & bumps to about 800-850 or so when the compressor kicks in. Normal for a 1st gen.
It never idles higher the that.
 






What was the 'stat reading with the A/C on before everything was replaced?

If the engine only overheats on a hot day with the A/C on, and goes back to the middle of the temp gauge if the A/C is off, the replacement compressor might be putting too much of a load on the engine.

I was thinking perhaps there was a diluted coolant mix lower than 50/50 that might be causing it, but if you've tried distilled water with waterwetter and it wasn't any better, that's probably not it. Keep in mind it's a good idea to run antifreeze rather than just water & waterwetter for protection of metals and to lube the water pump.

How new is the Stant 'stat that's in there? Cheapest shot seems like another 'stat to see if it makes a difference.
 






Just to add my 2c in, I live in Mid-Mississippi. It gets hot and humid here.. 99 today. When I bought my x 3 years ago, i noticed it never got warm. Even on hot days it might make it to the O of normal. But in the winter, the heat almost didnt work. After a bit, I checked the stat and it was in pieces rusting in my block. I got it removed and replaced and bingo, everything worked fine. I suggest keeping the stat in because of a few reasons. First of all, with the stat removed, there is nothing stopping the water in the radiator giving it time to cool off. This may seem counter-intuitive, but the stat will stop the water in the radiator giving it time to cool off, then allowing it into the motor to cool all that off. Another thing, antifreeze, one of the properties of a pure liquid is that when something (antifreeze) is added to it, the freezing temp is lowered and the boiling point is raised. Thats how antifreeze is an antifreeze/coolant at the same time. It increases the temp that water will boil in your system. So I would not try water only or less than 20% antifreeze mix. If you do, and your running a 190 F stat..your only 21 degrees from boiling, and boiling water does not cool at all (steam). So I run a 180 F stat and a 50/50 mix of antifreeze in MS with no overheating issues. It might get up to the "R" of normal, but not often.
 






FYI, the boiling point of water is 212 degrees, at atmospheric pressure. Look at the radiator cap, the pressure in the cooling system is way above atmospheric. The boiling point rises greatly with added pressure.

Water cools far better than antifreeze, always use the minimum amount of antifreeze for your location/climate. Add Water Weter or the much more expensive other brands. They improve the boiling/freezing point, lubricate the water pump, and transfer heat much better. Good luck,
 






Had similar problem

When my '94 Navajo was overheating I found the radiator was starting to get clogged.

Fire-storm
 






FYI, since I bypassed my heater core, I noticed an improvement in the cooling of the AC system.

I also have run my X without any thermostat for 3 weeks. I saw zero difference in cooling. Only thing I noticed was that the car was a little sluggish when hot. MPG I have no clue. I don't pay attention to it. Putting a 180 in later this week as well as a 10 blade fan.
 






FYI, if you install an electric fan, make the power circuit very secure.

I found out how fragile a $25 50 amp circuit breaker can be today. It was supposed to be an external type able to take some water. I washed under hood Sunday, and today I discovered on my route that I had no fan. I saw 270 degrees and cut the engine. 20 minutes and tapping on the circuit breaker after testing with volt meter, I got the fan running. It only took 2 liters to top off everything and pour over coolant overflow areas. That was scary, and now I need to see about a new or better circuit breaker.

The fans work great when they work, otherwise look out. Regards,
 






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