Can the transmission be removed with the Y-pipe in place?

[masospaghetti]

From this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251145&highlight=transmission+removal&page=2

Spdrcer34 says "I have pulled the M5OD and the A4LD out of more than a couple Explorers, and NEVER had I had to pull the Exhaust crossover. It will slide out of there, and go back in with no problem with it in place."

Freshmeat responds with "Then I commend your mad skills, because both the M5OD out of the Mazda and the A4LD out of my Ex required removal of the Y-pipe. Are you sure your transmission swap weren't done on body lifted rigs? Even 1" more clearance would have done the trick..."

Anyone else have comment on this? My 1st gear synchro has finally given itself up and a rebuild is in my near future.

Thanks, J

 

[snoranger]

Yes, it will come out without dropping the Y-pipe.

No, it is not easy.

 

[Jstcruz]

In my experiance, it would be very difficult to remove the tranny without moving the exhaust out of the way.

Also in my experiance, It pays for itself to take the time to make the job easier than to fight thru the job even if it would take the same amount of time without the 1st step. Usualy it takes longer tho!

 

[snow580]

I just pulled one out of a 2000 without removing the Y pipe. It's tight but it fits.

 

[Macgiobuin]

One technique I use is to put a block of wood under the harmonic balancer and above the sway bar. The engine has a tendency to drop at the front, with the motor mounts acting as fulcrum, bringing the flywheel side of the motor (the back) up. Couldn't get the M5OD in until I lifted the front, which dropped the back. Then it went in like a glove.

 

[Red Delta]

When I did my clutch, I removed the Y pipe with my sawsall. Then, I removed the manifolds and took them over to my local garage so they could heat the bolts that held the remainder of the Y pipe. Next time, I will go to the garage before I start and have them loosen up the pipe to manifold bolts for me and save some time and $100 for a new Y pipe.

 

[Explodr94]

I have access to a lift and power tools and it only takes about 20 minutes to take the Y-pipe off. However, I could see it being more difficult where there are elements. Long extension, breaker bar that's the ticket. I would remove the Y-pipe taking a tranny out, especially automatics they're heavy.

 

[Sedition]

I suggest using plenty of wd40, shop air and a rattle gun to remove down pipe bolts. Use plenty of extensions and press hard so you don't strip those bolt heads. If they still wont come off alternate between tighten and loosen, they'll eventually come loose.

 

[96eb96]

I suggest using plenty of wd40, shop air and a rattle gun to remove down pipe bolts. Use plenty of extensions and press hard so you don't strip those bolt heads. If they still wont come off alternate between tighten and loosen, they'll eventually come loose.

I've seen exhaust bolts that are just corroded donuts. I guess the only solution there is to cut the bolt, or spend hours with a vice grip. It may be faster then to just cut it flush, drill thru and replace with a long nut/bolt combo.

 

[Don Don]

I had the pilot bearing go bad in my explorer. I used heat, impact, breaker bar, pb blaster and quite a few choice words trying to get the y pipe bolts free. I ended up cutting the y pipe and having to weld it back together. I'm glad you guys posted on how to do it without cutting the pipe as I have to yank the tranny this weekend due to 3rd n 5th whining loud enough to hear over the radio. When it started whining, I searched this site about what others have experienced and I was able to put about 6k miles on the ailing gearbox but now it is jumping out of 3rd. I had planned to lift the body enough to get the tranny out but I'm certainly going to try raising the front if the engine first. Thanks guys.

 

[drdoom]

I suggest using plenty of wd40, shop air and a rattle gun to remove down pipe bolts. Use plenty of extensions and press hard so you don't strip those bolt heads. If they still wont come off alternate between tighten and loosen, they'll eventually come loose.

Sedition that is exactly how I did it, spraying penetrating oil through the wheel well. It took a long time, like 10-15 minutes per bolt! I really didn't think they would come out but they both did. The bolts were tight right down to the last thread.

 

[Don Don]

Update. I did get the ailing gearbox out without removing the y pipe. I used 5 pieces of 1x4 poplar ( it's what I had laying around) between the harmonic balancer and the sway bar. Then I had to pull a shade tree mechanic move and lay under the tranny using my arms and knees to manipulate the tranny out. It finally came out at about a 20 degree down and 10-15 degree to the passenger side angle. I think it's definitely gonna take a second set of hands to thread the tranny back in the explorer

 

[bill06447]

Doesn't take much to drop the exhaust. Why would you want to do it the hard way?

Bill

 

[Don Don]

Bill, I only know how to do things the hard way, lol. But seriously, I tried using pb blaster and then tapping the manifolds with a hammer to set up vibrations to aid the penetrating oil several times over a 3 hr period. Then I used an impact with 175 psi pressure. That didn't do it so I broke out the pb blaster and then a pull handle and a 2 ft cheater pipe. That didn't work so I broke out the torch set and applied heat to the manifolds only, not the bolts and tried the impact again. That don't work so I let the manifolds cool and the. Re heated the bolt flange and tried the pull handle and cheater pipe, pulling on it until I was afraid of breaking the bolts. At that point, I figured it would be eAsier to cut the y pipe out with a sawzall and weld it back together. That was are real pain to weld in such tight quarters and get the leaks sealed up. So when I had to pull the tranny again the other day, I figured I'd try getting the tranny out without screwing with that pesky y pipe.