Can't post in 911, but Help please

[Yetii]

I have a 97 SOHC. Replaced all timing chains and tensioners, replaced motor. Everything has been perfect for 500 miles. After driving all over today, including towing a boat, I went to the hardeware store and can't re-start. The car cranks fine and lights, or tries to, but immediately dies. I have released fuel from the valve on the rail, and it sprays out. I don't know how much pressure though. It seems like a fuel issue to me. I don't know if I have a CEL or not, since it does'nt run. I have checked all vacuum hoses and cant find an issue. Iven if it was vacuum, I should be able to keep it running with throttle. Any suggestions are welcome!

Thanks!

 

[colintrax]

I can't help you much, but if you just let the key sit in the run position it should show your check engine light. Just give it a few minutes

 

[Windowlicker]

Crankshaft position sensor...find it and tap it with something. Sounds odd but it worked for me.

 

[budwich]

lots of posts on "no start" plus I think a sticky (under the hood). Basically, you need to check for the "cel light" (as suggested) to turn on with "key on" and off during "crank", check for fuel (try spraying "quick start"), check for spark. Pull a plug, see if its wet. Who did the "over haul"?... sounds like a possible "oops" on an "less than factory restore"... Finally, a compression test will quickly tell you something.

 

[Yetii]

Thanks, I'll check the sticky. I did the overhaul. I'd be stunned if it's anything inside the motor. Like I say, It has run perfect for 300 mi, including to the hardware and a normal turn off. I'm betting sensor or FP.

 

[jcasey007]

I would echo the crank position censor, but I advise taking the plug off and on, happens every 9 months or so on my 97 SOHC.

it's a mystery to me as well but it works!

 

[Yetii]

No joy unplugging and re-plugging either sensor. I will try to clean them and try again. Will this car blink out the codes on the dash?

Thanks for your replies

 

[Yetii]

The cause is no fuel pressure. Now to figure out why. I have played musical relays, but don't hear the FP come on. Still looking.

Thanks again.

 

[budwich]

ok.... i'll bite.... what changed from post 1 and just above?.... how do you know its a fuel issue? Did you follow the suggestions? and No you have to read for codes, there is no "flashing guiding light"... but the world may still end...

 

[Yetii]

Why did'nt I think of that . . . . the truck is in rapture!!!
I dont know if anything has changed. I'm guessing that when I tested the fuel schrader valve the first time I was just seeing residual pressure. There is none now. I can put the key to on, I can crank, but there is 0 fuel released when I depress the valve now. I need to find out if its power to the pump, or the pump itself.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[budwich]

good... I was scared the ford world was coming to an end... in your case though, you just need to follow the steps outlined in the "no start"... the first of which is "does your cel light come on with key on"? "No cel" means "no gas" and there in will help you go in the right direction.... maybe. Of course, you could just play "relay roulette" and hope for "00"....

 

[Yetii]

I get the CEL. I dont have a reader. I'm drinking now. I'll get under there with a multimeter tomorrow to see if the FP is getting power. I appreciate your comments.

 

[budwich]

I don't think you quite understand. The "cel light" during key on and start sequences has nothing to do with "codes" and a reader... its how the system tells you that it is progressing thru the start/"initialization sequence" of your truck. IF the CEL is operating appropriately then you can move on to the "fueling" step. As you "proposed", a relay swap might help you out... but ultimately a meter will tell you more about your problem.... so drink up me boy and good luck in your effort tomorrow.

 

[Yetii]

Looks like a fuel pump. I separated the connector at the gas tank. The ground read good, the pink and black wire had momentary full battery power right after the ignition switch was turned on then dropped down to a lower voltage. I still do not hear the fuel pump and I still have absolutely no pressure. Does this sound like a proper diagnosis?

 

[budwich]

kinda , battery is only maintained for "a second" until the engine actually starts... then it is constant. However, it is good work. If you want, run a battery jumper wire just past the inertia switch (passenger dash area) on the wire running to the fuel pump. The pump should run "forever". IF not, then I would say you likely have a pump problem. Further I would do a resistant measurement of the pump and see what you get... that will likely confirm your "diagnosis".

 

[Yetii]

Resistance measurement from the pink/black to the black in the pump side of the connector? I'm guessing infinite resistance is a toasted pump? (no circuit)

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Yetii]

Just posting up the results. It was the fuel pump. The old pump had continuity, must have been jammed or shorted. It would not run even when hooked directly to the battery. Dropped the tank and replaced the pump only. Car runs fine now. I had cut an access hole to try to do the work from inside, but no go. My explorer has a reinforcing cross member that prevented sufficient access. Mine is a 97 xlt 4 door. It appears that some on here have had success, others have been stopped by this cross member. I wonder why the difference within the same model year.

Thanks for your guidance!