Castle nut ball joint

[madbrown]

Replacing my upper and lower ball joints, but I'm having an issue getting the bottom castle nut off (under lower joint). Can't budge it w/ pb and a crescent and don't have a socket large enough. Does anybody know the size of the nut? Though I read somewhere 28mm, but want to get the right socket and use a breaker bar on it. Been following the very helpful ball joint post w/pics, but doesn't mention size of the big castle nut. Thanks again.

 

[techieman33]

24mm

 

[madbrown]

Thanks! Has anyone had any luck using a standard adj. C-clamp to pop the joints out. Located pretty much in middle of nowwhere so going to try to pops these in and out w/ something around the cabin. Saw the jack idea to pop back in, but wondering what would work to pop them out if a hammer doesn't do it.

 

[Carguy3J]

Thanks! Has anyone had any luck using a standard adj. C-clamp to pop the joints out. Located pretty much in middle of nowwhere so going to try to pops these in and out w/ something around the cabin. Saw the jack idea to pop back in, but wondering what would work to pop them out if a hammer doesn't do it.

I seriously doubt that a standard c-clamp is going to work, either to remove or install a lower ball joint. Just compare the size of a regular c-clamp to a ball-joint "press". The correct tool is MUCH "beefier". If you could somehow get enough leverage/force on the standard c-clamp, to have a chance at getting the ball-joint out, you'd bend/break the clamp. You'd likely get injured in the process. However, the more likely scenario is that you'll never be able to get enough force on the c-clamp, trying to to turn the little t-handle.

You need the proper tool, and, most likely, and air impact gun.

 

[budwich]

go to the sticky, at the end, some one posted a nice video on the work.... with a "heavy hammer"... make sure that you support the control arm.

 

[bobflood]

Just did mine a few months ago; had air, a lift and proper tools and it was still a bear getting the old castle nut off and the ball joints out. Highly unlikely a C-clamp will work; go get the press. Putting the new ball joints in the freezer overnite really helped on reassembly. Good luck.

 

[madbrown]

Yeah I found that video last night, very helpful. In the video though it appears that he's loosening the castle nut clockwise. Is it reverse threaded? Also curious do new lbj & ubj come greased or do I need to get a grease gun? Also my uppers appear to be stock so from what I've read that the first time around I need to install a whole new unit, control arm and joint as well, is this true? Thanks for all the help out there.

 

[Carguy3J]

Yeah I found that video last night, very helpful. In the video though it appears that he's loosening the castle nut clockwise. Is it reverse threaded? Also curious do new lbj & ubj come greased or do I need to get a grease gun? Also my uppers appear to be stock so from what I've read that the first time around I need to install a whole new unit, control arm and joint as well, is this true? Thanks for all the help out there.

Just look at the new joints. If they come with grease fittings, then you'll need to grease them. They'll have some in them from the factory, but not enough. If you're desperate, they probably have enough grease in them to let you drive to the parts store and get a grease gun, but I wouldn't leave them like that. If they are sealed (no grease fittings), then they are "lubed for life" from the factory; no grease(gun) needed.

As for you're other question: Yes, if you have the original factory uppers, then you either have to buy complete replacements, or buy new uppers with replaceable ball joints. Then, next time, you would only have to replace the ball joints. Be aware, however, that replacing the factory 2-piece right upper w/ any one-piece design (w/ or w/o replaceable ball-joint) means you will lose some of the factory wheel alignment capability. The purpose of the factory 2-piece upper on the right is to allow for further CASTER adjustment, and adjustment of caster-spilt. Caster split affects how the vehicle "tracks" while going down the road. For example, if you mainly travel on roads with a high "crown", caster split can be adjusted, so that it doesn't pull or drift towards the "low side" of the road. However, it would then pull on a flat road (no crown). If you primarily drove on perfectly flat roads, then it could be adjusted for that, but would pull more on a crowned road,etc.... If not adjusted properly, caster-split could also cause the vehicle to require much less effort to turn one way, and much more the other way.

I would stick with the 2-piece upper design, even if it means giving up the replaceable ball joint. I mean, how often are you really going to be doing ball joints?

 

[madbrown]

Thanks for the info.. Almost forgot to ask, need to get deep socket to pull off axle nut. I believe the size is 32mm. Can anyone confirm?

 

[madbrown]

The axle nut is 32mm, got it off, however the castle nut is not 24mm, too small. Thought it was a 28mm? It's on a 98' Explorer XLT

 

[techieman33]

I went out and checked mine when he asked and it was 24mm. Now that I think about it though it is probably not the original part the mountaineer already had 200k miles on it when I bought it.

 

[madbrown]

No worries got them off! However, I removed the pinch nut, the joint is free, and the nuts are off the ends of the camber bolts, but I can't slide the camber bolt and cams out because they're obstructed by some hard fuel lines when I try to back them out? Tried to move the lines, but not enough give, the plate and the back of the bolt gets jammed by the lines!

 

[madbrown]

Should mention I talking about the upper control arms unit now.

 

[2000StreetRod]

cut in half, then replace

Replacing Camber/Caster Bolts

 

[madbrown]

Guess I'll be cutting it out. On a side note I posted a thread a few days back about what I believe is a leaky rack & pinion, and I'm thinking since I'm in the process of doing my joints why not pull my rack. However, I must admit it seems pretty intimidating as I'm not all that mechanically inclined. Is there a thorough thread out there? Thanks as always

 

[Mlwexp]

I seriously doubt that a standard c-clamp is going to work, either to remove or install a lower ball joint. Just compare the size of a regular c-clamp to a ball-joint "press". The correct tool is MUCH "beefier". If you could somehow get enough leverage/force on the standard c-clamp, to have a chance at getting the ball-joint out, you'd bend/break the clamp. You'd likely get injured in the process. However, the more likely scenario is that you'll never be able to get enough force on the c-clamp, trying to to turn the little t-handle.

You need the proper tool, and, most likely, and air impact gun.

I did it once 2 years ago

 

[410Fortune]

12 year old thread

Lower ball joints are easily removed with a hammer

I did a rack and pinion replacement write up back in 2005 or so