CD changer/amp replacement

[duz]

I just installed the Sony CDX-M730 (very clean looking). I hooked up the RCA preouts to an aftermarket wiring harness to it would intigrate with the factory amplifier. The question I was pondering has to do with this amp. If I were to replace it with an aftermarket one in the same place, would i have to run new rca wire to it, or would it be possible to use the existing wire to carry the signal to the newer amp, somehow? And where the he|| is it? Its a 95 XLT. Honestly I don't know if its easy to access or not in order to check up on this for myself. All everyone keeps saying is "the back panel"... thnx

 

[AdamsGuitar]

In a short answer to your question, you can't put an aftermarket amp in place of your factory one and still use the factory HU.

However, I have to ask, if you're ready to get a power amp, I'm assuming you have new speakers already, and you already have a new changer, so I would say you need to upgrade the HU anyway.

You will have to run new wires (meaning power, RCA, and trigger) to the new amp, but you can get an amp bypass kit that gives you a HU wiring harness and an amp wiring harness that will allow you to use your HU's wires and use the speaker wires in the back.

To access the amp and wires, remove the rear passenger trim panel. To do this, first get yourself a large torx (star) driver to remove the seat belt from the top (pop the plastic cover back from the top). Now get a large socket (I'm sorry, I don't know the size for these off the top of my head) and remove the nut at the base of the seat belt next to the rear seat. The bolt is long, so try sticking the socket on by itself then insert the ratchet (just a tip, might not be needed). Just bring the entire seat belt top bracket, buckle, and bottom bracket through the hole in the trim panel.

Next, lift up the edge of the carpet and padding along the panel and remove the (I think three, POSSIBLY four) phillips-head screws holding it down.

And, finally, remove the eight plastic "friction bolts" (absolutely no idea what the official name for them is; they're the circles in the rearmost side, top side, and middle of the panel) by just pulling them up. You can actually pull out on the panel to do it, just be sure none of them hit you in the face if they happen to pop out (it's happened to me).

Once these are out, it should be fairly simple to just, well, remove the piece from the rear of your truck =P

Install is pretty much the reverse of removal, just have fun getting those phillips head screws back in. I've taken my panel out, oh, at least four times, so I just did away with them and I don't notice a real difference in how it feels, so I plan to leave them out, as they can be somewhat of a PITA to get back in.

Hope this helps!

 

[duz]

The CDX-M730 is head unit, not a changer. Sorry for not providing a link. I greatly appreciate the amp location, but i was wondering if the connection i have from my preout on my deck can be used to run to an aftermarket amp as well as the factory one? Like does it have an RCA connection to this factory amp or would i need something to convert it into an RCA-wire form?

 

[AdamsGuitar]

Ahh, didn't even check model numbers, just saw the subject. As for using both, don't bother. The factory amp is only 15W/channel RMS. Also, there is no way (that I can think of) to use the factory amp, as it is more than just an amp. Your tuner is in it and the CD changer (if any) plugs into it, so I don't even know if there ARE line-level inputs on it (that you could access without having some fun with a volt-ohmmeter.

I would advise against using it anyway, as it's just going to be a PITA and a hury-rigged mess. Get yourself a good 4 channel amp and use that. I bought an Alpine V12 amp (~$400) and am VERY satisfied. 65W/channel RMS over 4 channels at 4ohms.

 

[duz]

awesome. thanks tons. its just that i dont feel like tearing up the interior (removing panels and seats) to run an RCA wire to an amp when i have an already-existing connection that i could use instead.

 

[AdamsGuitar]

Well, you really don't that I know of, considering everything is in the rear.

Running the cables is very easy. All you need to do is drop the glove box door all the way down (squeeze each side to release the rubber stoppers) and run cables from the back of the HU behind the 'box. Remove the one long door sill panel from the passenger side and the kick panel (the sill is held on with metal snap tabs, the kick panel with one "friction bolt"), tuck the wires right under the edge of the carpet, then snap everything back on. The whole process takes maybe 10 minutes tops and is a no-brainer.

 

[AdamsGuitar]

Sorry, it's late. What I meant by "one long door sill panel" is the plastic panel that contains the front door sill, the bottom of the center pillar, and the rear door sill in one big piece of plastic.