Changing intake manifold gasket...

[Limited Ex]

Working on changing my lower intake manifold gasket and the pass side valve cover gasket. And considering I have a knack for thinking ahead of things, I did not relieve the fuel pressure before I started disassembling everything So my question is: is there a way to relieve the pressure without having to start the truck, or can I just disconnect the shut-off switch and let it sit for a few days? I REALLY do not want to put everything back just so I can crank the truck for a few seconds
And lastly, while I am in there with everything apart, any suggestions on what I may want to replace? Aside from the obvious stuff like the gaskets

 

[MrShorty]

1st put out your cigarette/cigar/torch and any other source of fire. Then relieve the pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Use a rag to absorb the fuel that comes out. I usually try to put my fuel pressure gauge on so I can relieve the pressure into something, but there's never pressure left by the time I get the gauge on tightly.
And while you're in there, consider having the fuel injectors cleaned good. I'm not sure what shops charge to clean injectors out of the vehicle, but I don't think it would be too much. I'm not sure what's involved either -- maybe they just bathe them in fuel injector cleaner. Anyway, they say the best way to clean fuel injectors is by removing them from the engine, and you'll have them removed.

 

[Rhett]

Soak them in mineral spirits. Or injector cleaner will work too. Be sure to replace the injector o-rings while you have them out. They are a cheap item and can go bad with time.

 

[Limited Ex]

MrShorty, I had noticed that valve and remembered what its purpose is, but did not think to use it like that, thanks man! How much gas should I expect to come out?

Rhett, when you say injector cleaner, do you mean something along the lines as the stuff that you would pour into your gas tank or is there specific cleaners for this? Heck, I may just replace the injectors all together.

 

[Limited Ex]

OK, looks like I will be cleaning the injectors! I just checked with Ford Parts and they said $80 per injector.
"F*** that!!" <------- Mr. Wallet

 

[Rhett]

I used mineral spirits, which was the suggestion of 410Fortune here, if I remember correctly. It seemed to work fine. Friends of mine have used regular ol fuel injector cleaner, poured it in a bowl and so forth. I've never done it that way so I can't comment on it. Anyway yes injectors are kind of pricey and if you can clean them and replace the o-rings (a very low-cost part) you can probably save you lots of $$. Often times the o-rings are what wears out anyway.

 

[Limited Ex]

Yeah I have a friend that works at Advance Auto and he can get me an O ring kit for $10. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[Limited Ex]

Ok have another question. When removing the fuel rail, do I have to disconnect the fuel lines at the couplings down by the fender well, or can I just unscrew the lines that attach to the rails, the ones in the picture below?

 

[SteveVB]

You can remove them there thats fine, just keep them clean clean clean.

You know you will have to replace both valve cover gaskets - you only mentioned one. But the intake is under the VC so you have to do both.

Plan to spend a bunch of time cleaning all the crap from the lower intake. Get some wire brushes and lots of cleaner. A big pan too if you dont have a parts cleaner.

You can get all new injectors for 200 or so- a set of mustang injectors 19lb are stock. Also on Ebay Ive seen a few sets of 6 for 150ish. I had mine cleaned when it was apart - cost about 80 bucks with new o-rings. If I was to do it again I think I would just get new ones for an extra 80 -100 dollars.

have fun.

 

[Brian1]

You know you dont have to disconnect ANY fuel lines or fittings to change the gaskets. I guess you are wanting to change something else dealing with the fuel system while you have it apart? I just changed my upper and lower manifold gaskets a few months ago. I also put on a new fan, new t-stat, new serpentine belt and new radiator and heater hoses. If you need to change spark plugs now is the time as well. Also move the pulley on the water pump to see if it moves smoothly or if it makes noise. I thought about changing mine but didnt. I had to change it last week because the bearings were going bad, it would have been a little easier to do it when everything else was apart.

 

[Limited Ex]

I disconnected the fuel lines anyhow, I was not patient enough to wait for responses
I planned on replacing the valve cover gaskets anyhow. I did the drivers side one not more than 2 years ago, do you think it would be fine to use again if I just cleaned it off? Its the newer aluminum/urethane (or whatever it is) kind of gasket.
I pulled the fuel rail and injectors out and gave them both a good cleaning. Steve, where did you see new injectors for that price? Ford Parts was wanting $80 per injector, and thats more than I want to spend if a good cleaning will keep mine happy. I just soaked them in throttle body cleaner, cleaned all the gunk off of them and put new o-rings in as well.
Brian, thanks I will check the pump. I am planning on changing all the gaskets that I come accross. I went ahead and bought a new IAC, probably change plug wires, might as well put new O2 sensors in since I can reach the plugs really easily now, flush the radiator since it is already drained, and also change the gaskets on both sides of the fuel rail.
Lastly, what is the stock injector .lb?

 

[SteveVB]

Originally posted by Limited Ex
I pulled the fuel rail and injectors out and gave them both a good cleaning. Steve, where did you see new injectors for that price? Ford Parts was wanting $80 per injector, and thats more than I want to spend if a good cleaning will keep mine happy. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Lastly, what is the stock injector .lb?

Summit racing has sets of 8 for about 200- they are mustang injectors- the same that we use. I read a thread on RPS that laurelmountainmustang.com will sell (or has sold) sets of 6 for 120 or 140 I think, if you call them. Thats a good deal it seems.

Stock injectors are 19lbs/hr

I would think that if the ureathane is still bonded to the aluminum, and they arent too deformed you could clean them up and reuse them. But Ive never done it, so...

Sounds like you are moving along.

Good Luck

 

[Limited Ex]

I would think that if the ureathane is still bonded to the aluminum, and they arent too deformed you could clean them up and reuse them. But Ive never done it, so...

there is only one way to find out!

That is a real good deal on injectors. But I think I will stick with just cleaning them right now, I can spend $200 on something that would make me happier.......

 

[Limited Ex]

Ok, have another question. I was cleaning the threads on the bolts that hold the fuel rail and upper intake manifold in place, and noticed that the threads on the bottom part of the bolt are not perfectly round. Instead of feeling oblong, having two sides that felt stretched, they felt more triangular, with three sides that felt stretched. It is just slight, you can barely see it by looking at the bolts, but that feeling is consistent with all the bolts; every bolts bottom threads feel the same. All the upper threads feel as round as they can be. Are the made this way, orrrrr.....what?

 

[Limited Ex]

Finally got the lower intake off. As I was inspecting everything, I noticed that a few of the spaces between the push rods looked halfway clogged. Is it supposed to be like that or should I attempt to clean the areas of the gunk?

 

[SteveVB]

Dont know about the threads- got a pic?

I would clean any ludge from the valley- just make sure youget it if you looosen it up so it doesnt get pushed through the engine.

Be a good idea to check the rocker arms while you are in there.

Good Luck

 

[Limited Ex]

I am not worried about the threads, I went ahead and put them back in with a little spot of loc-tite, that and they were all pretty tight when I took them out. And I checked the rocker arms, and I could not find any visible space between them and the puch rods, so is it safe to assume they are fine, or should I take the assembly off and inspect them?

 

[SteveVB]

I would remove and inspect them. The problems are the rocker arms worn at the valve stem, and the cups where the push rods seat. Just remember to keep them in the same order and position to reinstall. Take a look at the valve train noise article on Explorer4x4, it covers the valve train problems.

 

[Limited Ex]

Cool, thanks! I have read that article, and I figured that I would need to pull them, but just wanted to be sure before I went making more work for myself