changing leaky front diff seals..

[Hoppy]

Hi Guys,

Is there any way to change the front pinion seal while the axle is in the truck and half shafts attached to the axle? I definately know that the preload on the bearings has to be set and I do not fancy the idea of pulling the whole axle out so I can remove the ring gear carrier to set the pinion bearing preload all by itself.

Anyone with experience and knowledge at this?

Thanks Guys,

Hoppy

 

[CDW6212R]

Old thread, before my time. I bought a 99 last December, and replaced the seals a couple of months ago. I pulled it all apart.

I was able to reset the pinion nut to a proper torque, by having the carrier on the floor, and a breaker bar to apply pressure. I premarked the nut and yoke extremely carefully, before I loosened the nut. With it all in the truck, you would not be able to manually hold the ring gear, and manually turn the pinion nut. Maybe with three people, each with long breaker bars.

It's not a horrible job, just tedious. Pull both top ball joints loose, set the control arms down. Pull the axles, and driveshaft. Pull the vent hose loose, and set aside. Pull the three carrier bracket bolts, supporting the carrier to lower it. Remove the carrier, do the work to it, and reinstall it. I did the job myself, but get some help to lower the carrier and raise it. Good luck,

 

[Hoppy]

I can appreciate pulling the entire diff out of the front end to do it the "Proper way". But after getting a quote of an hours worth of time to replace it at the local shop, with them explaining that they will do the replacement without chaging the crush sleeve and guaranteeing the preload on the bearings will not explode them, I may do that. I am not fancy on taking the truck to a shop, neither am I fancying tearing the entire front axle out to replace a measley little seal. But with the fact that this shop guarantee's their work nationwide (at Canadian Tire which there are many across the province of Ontario) if the front diff fails, well, I just go after them for a new axle then I guess. I do not necessarily trust any shop, I do all my work on my own usually, but in this case I have yet to find a way to do it on my own at home with piece of mind, at least I will have warranty to cover any misrepair on the problem. I have gotten the one quote, but I think I may take it to the dealer for a quote and explanation on how they propose to fix the leaky seal.

I really do want to do it myself. I love wrenching on the truck, but don't want to deal with this massive job of tearing the entire whole front end apart to change one wee little seal. Seems like Ford had an engineer from General Motors working for them to design this front end. I cannot beleive the idiocy of the design of this front end in way of servicing. My 92 Ex was way too simple to work on the front diff.

But back to my original question. Is it possible to change the seal while the axle is in the truck???

Thanks,

Hoppy

 

[CDW6212R]

The real problem is getting to the yoke to hold it still, while turning the nut manually. I think it can be done, but on the ground would be much harder than on a lift. The biggest thing to avoid is an impact wrench.

The sleeve is supposed to be crushed up to a magic point, where the freewheeling torque is ten inch pounds. Meaning with the differential loose, unattached to axles, the torque required to spin the pinion nut should be less than one lbs.ft. With axles attached, take off the wheels, it would take a little more torque.

I would bet that the shop you spoke to is planning on using an impact to "sneak up" on that original nut tightness. I don't trust that technique. You could do the same thing I did on the floor, but in the truck.

Mark exactly where the nut is, relative to the shaft, and relative to the yoke. Scribe a mark on the shaft end, and next to that mark, scribe the nut, and the yoke. The goal is to be able to tighten the nut to exactly the same location. The yoke must go back on in the same splines location as well.

Try to get the shop to do this, or do it yourself. I used a pipe wrench carefully on the yoke to hold it still, and a breaker bar/socket to turn the nut, with red locktight. Good luck,

 

[Hoppy]

Thanks CDW6212R,

This is the main problem that I am having, I don't want to take it to a shop who will do a shoddy job and have my front axle fail on me if I take a long drive, especially if it is on my vacation. I would rather replace it myself, but do not want to take the axle out to remove the ring gear to get a measurement of the pinion only bearing preload, which ideally is the best way to do it.

What do you think of this idea...

What if I take the wheels off the front and remove the brake calipers to remove any drag. Then remove the front drive shaft and take the reading of how many inch lbs it takes to turn the input pinion complete with the entire workings of the front driveaxle. Record it, replace the seal, then in combination with your Idea CDW6212R of marking the yoke, pinion and nut to return everything to its original location, then just before approaching the original line up of all those three components, take the torque reading of how many inch lbs it takes to return the resistance of turning the input of the axle to the original. I am only afraid that with all the moving parts inside and outside of the axle I will not get a true reading with the torque wrench.

Anyway, I appreciate all the help here.

Hoppy

 

[CDW6212R]

That will probably be the same thing. Others have suggested to tighten the nut more than where it started, to make up for wear that has occured. Unless you know of some looseness, or other symptoms, I'd place it exactly where it is now. If it has other needs, then they should be addressed in some other way(new bearings, new collar, etc.) Good luck,