Steering whine, a pop in the front end and a leaky front diff

[Andy97XLT]

I've had this problem for sometime now. When turned fully to the right or left, my steering seems to whine as if the pump's low on fluid but it's not. Also, I notice, mainly when backing up, and the wheel turned almost fully to either direction, I hear a pop coming from the front end. It's not constant, just one time only. I wish I could be more specific, but that's exactly what's happening and what it sounds like.
I understand that the steering will whine a little when the wheel is cranked down upon but it does this as I'm approacing full right or left and as I get even closer to full turn, I then hear the pop.
The steering is always smooth at any speed but just a little loud.
Also, my front differential is leaking. It leaked once before while still under warantee and the dealer replaced the front seal between the diff and the front diff cover. Now, I'm afraid it's leaking from the rear where the driveshaft enters the diff. Replacing the front seal is not a big deal but how about that rear seal? I'm worried that the metal might be somewhat deformed around the seal area and even if a new rear seal is installed, it will still leak because the seal will not make up for the deflection of metal.
All suggestions and ideas will be MUCH appreciated.
Also, does anyone know of anyway of installing diff and transmission protectors/shileds on the 95+?
I'd like an undercarriage rock crawling protector package-some armor for those vital parts!
Is anything even available?



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Happy Wheelin,

Andy Statland
'97 XLT 4.0L OHC 4Dr 4x4
Warrior Twist in the works

 

[mrboyle]

The whine and the popping noise may be caused by the same part. It sounds like you have a ball joint binding. It will work fine during normal driving, but hard turns (especially when the suspension is compressed) the joint is binding. This is causing the power steering to work harder than normal creating the whine. The pop is created by the power steering forcing the ball joint past the failure.
The leak in the front dif. sounds like the pinion seal. The only way the case can be deflected enough for this seal to leak would be if it has ever suffered a severe impact. Most likely the seal lip failed. The seal is designed to keep gear oil in and dirt out. Any small deposite on the face of the drive yolk could work its way under the seal and tear the lip, causing it to fail. This is more likely if you frequent muddy trails or sand dunes. Replacing the seal should stop the leak, but inspect the yolk for damage prior to reassembly.

 

[Andy97XLT]

Thanks for the reply! Since I posted that message, I have fixed the differenital problem. You were right, it was just the seal. I'm all set with that but I'm still experiencing the same problems that I've described from the front end. I know nothing about ball joints. I've read that they're pretty easy to work on. I know to check if they're worn, I should jack up the front end and then pull and push the front wheels in and out. If the wheel does move as I pull and push on it, they need to be repacked.
You said they could possibly be binding. I think I know what you mean but am not exactly sure. Do you mean that they're not rotating but rather roughly moving around?
Please explain!
If I do need to service them to fix this problem, can I do it myself? I have friends more experienced than I. How do I get to them and then what do I do?
Much thanks!!



------------------
Happy Wheelin,

Andy Statland
'97 XLT 4.0L OHC 4Dr 4x4
Warrior Twist in the works

 

[Tom Wilk]

Andy,

I think that what MrBoyle means by binding is pretty much as you described. They don't operate smoothly as they should. There's drag or friction between the moving parts. This could be due to wear, lack of lube or foreign matter in the joint.

You might want to pick up an Haynes or Chilton's manual. Both will show the procedure for replacing ball joints. You can look it over then decide if you want to deal with it or not. BTW, according to my chilton's, the ball joint on the 95+ Explorer is part of the control arm so if it needs replacement, you must replace the control arm itself.

One other thing to check would be the tie rod ends. Check for bent or looseness where they attack to the steering knuckle.

You might want to put the front up on jack stands as well to listen and see if you can tell where the noises are coming from. This might best be done on a lift if you have access to one. You wouldn't want the car to slip into gear while you're doing this. If you use jackstands, set the parking brake, chock the rear wheels on both sides front and back, then start the engine and listen to the steering.

As far as skid plates to protect the underside, the only ones Ford offers for the later model Explorers as far as I can tell are for the gas tank and the transfer case. The front differential is partially protected by the front cross member, though it still appears vulnerable if you come down on a rock.

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Tom
99 Sport 4x4
SOHC
Auburn Rear & Gerald's old Shackles
265/75-R16 BFG AT's that weren't supposed to fit

 

[Andy97XLT]

Thanks for all your help Tom!
One question about your rig: Were you able to fit your tires without any mods?


------------------
Happy Wheelin,

Andy Statland
'97 XLT 4.0L OHC 4Dr 4x4
Warrior Twist in the works

 

[mrboyle]

Tom is correct. By binding, I was suggesting that the contact surfaces of the ball-joint are fighting aginst each other as the ball pivots in the socket. This could be due to lack of lubercation (common on nonserviceable items such as thoes installed in your Explorer by Ford) or by one of the surfaces having failed. Surface failure is when the machined surface, where the ball and socket ride, either becomes cracked, chiped or is pitted due to moisture. Once this occurs the ball and socket no longer slide aginst each other, they actualy grind (causing a binding). Replacement of ball-jounte can be a major undertaking! Most jounts need to be pressed out and back in. You are also dealing with the torsion bar when replacing the lower joint. This job may be letf up to a professional or a experienced individual with proper equiptment.

 

[Tom Wilk]

Andy,

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I have made minimal mods to my sport. The tires barely fit. I had to trim a little plastic inside the right wheel well at the back to prevent rubbing, but otherwise, no contact is made at least not while driving on the street. The trim job is not visible, unless you are looking for it. I haven't hit the trails yet to see how it works under full spring compression.

As far as lift, I do have some slightly longer shackles in the rear that give me about 3/4" of lift, but that was done mainly to eliminate the Explorer sag that seems to be prevalent. The front may be 1/4 to 1/2" higher from adjusting the torsion bars to level everything out.

When I turn, the front of the tire passes about 1/2" from the back of the front bumper, but up and down fit seems good. There are a couple of things that I can still do if I have a fit problem including raining it another inch and moving the bumper forward as Gerald did.

MrBoyle, you put that very well. I was going to simply say binding is like having sand in your wheel bearings. Dead Link Removed

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Tom
99 Sport 4x4
SOHC
Auburn Rear & Gerald's old Shackles
265/75-R16 BFG AT's that weren't supposed to fit