Check MAF/Check fuel injectors

[mmunsee]

Where is the MAF located so i can check it and clean it, and also the fuel injectors, i want to check those as well. I have a 94 explorer, please help!

 

[safn1949]

Ok,go buy a Haynes manual first and do some reading.I'm not picking on you here but if you don't know what a MAF looks like and where it and the injectors are you don't want to be fooling around with it.

Man...I know that sounds bad but I'm trying to save you some grief.

 

[Iron Weasel]

A repair manual is always handy, but I would recommend an Alldata subscription over a Chilton / Haynes manual. It's around $20 / year for the first vehicle, then $16.95 for each vehicle afterwards. Alldata is far more detailed than Chilton / Haynes.

At any rate, the MAF sensor is located on the air intake tube. Find your air cleaner then look to the right and there should be a black rectangular object on top. The MAF sensor is going to take a T20 security (also called "tamper proof") torx bit to remove from the housing.

The fuel injectors are right where they're supposed to be, on the lower intake manifold. The fuel injectors require removal of the upper intake manifold and fuel supply manifold before you can access them.

What are you wanting to "check" on the fuel injectors anyway?

 

[mmunsee]

im not a retard, if someone would just tell me, i can figure it out from there..so plz, i need this done.

 

[Iron Weasel]

Don't recall anyone calling you a retard, but Safn does make a good point. If you can't identify the components you're looking for, maybe you shouldn't be messing with them.

I already told you where the MAF sensor was - if you know what it looks like - it's impossible to miss it. Make sure you have a T20 security torx driver or you won't be separating the sensor from its housing.

You won't be taking any of the fuel injectors out unless you remove half of the intake system. If you're intent on doing that, here are the steps:


Disconnect the electrical connectors at the idle air control valve, throttle position sensor and intake air temperature sensor.
Remove the fuel supply manifold shield to expose the throttle linkage. Remove the throttle cable bracket and disconnect the cable from the ball stud on the throttle body.
Remove the engine air cleaner intake tube and duct from air cleaner to throttle body.
Disconnect the upper intake manifold vacuum connectors.
Disconnect the PCV valve from the rocker cover.
Disconnect the spark plug wires from the comb at the rear of the intake manifold.
Remove the canister purge line from the fitting in the throttle housing.
Remove the bolt retaining the engine oil dipstick tube.
Remove the bolt which retains the A/C line at the upper rear of the upper intake manifold.
Remove the six upper intake manifold retaining bolts.
Remove the upper intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly from the lower intake and fuel injection supply manifolds.
Disconnect the fuel supply line fitting at the fuel injection supply manifold. NOTE: If the fitting has been properly disengaged, the fitting should slide off the fuel pressure regulator with minimum effort.
Disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator.
Remove six Torx head stud bolts retaining the fuel injection supply manifold and remove the fuel injection supply manifold.
Remove the fuel injector nozzle tips from the fuel injection supply manifold.

 

[mmunsee]

iron,

My truck when i step the gas pedal to the floor, the truck doesnt go anywhere until i left off the pedal a bit...when the pedal is to the floor the truck sounds like it wants to haul ass, but it doesn't....like i said until i left off the gas it will start picking up speed. And anothewr thing, when im going up hills, the trucks accelrator will give out, ill have to let off the gas again for the truck to want to go..?

 

[Iron Weasel]

Alright....now that we have a better idea of the problem, we have more to go on other than just doing random things.

Is it a manual or automatic?

Edit:

When going up a hill, do the engine RPM's increase but your speed stays the same or drops?

 

[mmunsee]

the RPMS go up but the speed doesnt increase.

 

[Iron Weasel]

5-speed or auto?

 

[mmunsee]

its an automatic

 

[Iron Weasel]

Checked the fluid level and condition lately?

If the fluid is good, I would start looking at the transmission modulator (aka vacuum modulator). It's cheap to replace, like under $15, and if the transmission isn't shifting correctly then this could be the culprit.

Worst case scenario could be that the torque converter is slipping too much.

 

[mmunsee]

Are you saying to check the trans fluid? And where is the vacum modulator located?

 

[Iron Weasel]

Article No.
97-22-4
10/27/97
TRANSMISSION - A4LD, 4R44E/4R55E, 5R55E - TORQUE CONVERTER SLIP - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 628 OR P0741 STORED IN MEMORY
FORD:
1985-93 MUSTANG
1987-88 THUNDERBIRD
LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1988 COUGAR
LIGHT TRUCK:
1985-90 BRONCO II
1985-97 RANGER
1987-97 AEROSTAR
1991-97 EXPLORER
ISSUE:
Some vehicles may experience excessive torque converter slippage, torque converter not engaging, or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 628 or P0741 stored in memory. This may be caused by damage to the fluid pump support seal and/or to the groove on the pump where the seal is located.
ACTION:
Inspect the fluid pump seal for damage. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Follow normal diagnostic procedures as listed in the appropriate Service Manual.
2. Inspect the fluid pump support for damage. If damaged, also inspect the fluid pump support seal groove on the pump.
3. If the groove is damaged, replace the pump.


4. If the groove is not damaged, replace the fluid pump support seal with a redesigned Seal (F77Z-7L323-AA). Refer to Figure 1.
5. Do not replace the torque converter unless it is damaged or fails the criteria listed in the appropriate Service Manual and/or refer to TSB 96-26-12.
PART NUMBER PART NAME

F77Z-7L323-AA Fluid Pump Support Seal
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 96-26-12
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 501000, 502000, 504000

 

[Iron Weasel]

Are you saying to check the trans fluid? And where is the vacum modulator located?

Yes.

A lot of problems with auto's, and especially the A4LD can be attributed to low or burnt transmission fluid. I have a 5-speed, so I can't go out and look, but on the dipstick for yours, it should say how to check it. It'll either be in Park with engine idling or in Neutral with engine idling. Make sure the transmission is at operating temperature when you check it. The fluid should be in the marked area on the dipstick.

The fluid on the dipstick should be red in color, if the fluid is a light pink, brown, or any other color then you should probably drop the pan and change the filter / fluid.

The vacuum modulator is on the passenger side, just above the pan and has a vacuum line going to it...shouldn't be too hard to find.

If the check engine light is coming on and going off, you probably have a code stored in the PCM. You need to pull the codes. Either read the sticky in this forum and do it yourself, or take it to a local shop that has a EEC-IV scanner and see what they'd charge to do it. Autozone typically only pulls codes on OBDII systems....which the 91 - 94 Explorer isn't.

 

[mmunsee]

Is there an image of the fluid pump so i can see where the fluid pump is located in the engine compartment. I just checked the transmission fluid and it is good.

 

[mmunsee]

ignore my last post, let me check the fluid again and see if i can find the other part, its dark outside

 

[Iron Weasel]

Is there an image of the fluid pump so i can see where the fluid pump is located in the engine compartment. I just checked the transmission fluid and it is good.

The fluid pump is inside the transmission - you'd have to pull the transmission out of the vehicle and partially disassemble it to get to the pump. Just posted the TSB so you'd be aware that Ford issued one for excessive torque converter slippage.

 

[mmunsee]

Ok well i just re checked the trans fluid in park and in neutral, and it shows the fluid is REALLY low...If i put more trans fluid will that fix the problem at all?

 

[Iron Weasel]

You don't need to check in both Park & Neutral. The dipstick itself should specify which one to use.

If it's low then you definitely need to add some to get it back up where it's supposed to be.
Assuming you haven't caused permanent damage to the transmission, then adding fluid should alleviate the problems you've been having. However, if you've been running it like that for any length of time, then it's highly possible that you've damaged the transmission internally. The #1 killer of automatic transmissions is heat, #2 is lack of lubrication (low fluid).

 

[mmunsee]

And does it take a certain kind of trans fluid?