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Clanking coming from underneath

The BJ's shouldn't be touching at rest at all, about 1/4" clearance is what I'd call a minimum, more is better. Those wheels must be non stock and have a width or offset that has placed the wheel and tire much further inward.

You can't drive that much distance at all, it will blow the tire, that's the metal outer surface of the upper BJ. The tire flexes inward during cornering, there has to be a decent gap between the BJ and tire, at rest.

It also looks like the BJ's are very old, cracking and maybe soon losing grease. When you next get a chance, I'd have all of the BJ's checked for wear, and be prepared to need to replace some of them soon.

The factory 16" tires were 255/70/16's, which are 30" tall. That 265/70 is 1/2" taller, 30.5", that isn't too big at all, but the speedometer is reading slightly slower than accurate, maybe 2-3% off.
I know I will have a blow out soon. So do you believe a worn ball joint would cause it to rub against the sidewall? I know it is worn out. I just put new stabilizer bars on it. I inherited this truck from my brothers passing. He kept all the receipts for the maintenance he had done on it. What about wheel spacers? I don't know anything about them but from the name I assume they make a space between the hub and the rim?
 



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They aren’t going to trade any tires, that ones ruined. If you don’t have 4 matching tires you run the risk of burning up the transfer case clutch.

It sounds like you need a ball joint and 4 matching tires to start.
 






The wheels are probably the cause of the rubbing tire, not the tires or the BJ. Can you post a picture of the wheels, and is the spare wheel the same as the other four, or is it a stock steel spare wheel? Have you check the clearance of the other front tire? If the wheels are the same, they should have about the same amount of space between the upper BJ's and the tires.
 






They aren’t going to trade any tires, that ones ruined. If you don’t have 4 matching tires you run the risk of burning up the transfer case clutch.

It sounds like you need a ball joint and 4 matching tires to start.
They match in size
Tjey knew they wetrn't the size recommended by the manufacturer. Tjerr is no way tje guy who mounted them did not know rthey wetr rubbing. Yeah let me go take some photos. I picked up some spacers this afternoon to put on tjat front hub
 






They match in size
Tjey knew they wetrn't the size recommended by the manufacturer. Tjerr is no way tje guy who mounted them did not know rthey wetr rubbing. Yeah let me go take some photos. I picked up some spacers this afternoon to put on tjat front hub
Sorry about my typo's i am doing this on my phone and I am all thumbs
They match in size
Tjey knew they wetrn't the size recommended by the manufacturer. Tjerr is no way tje guy who mounted them did not know rthey wetr rubbing. Yeah let me go take some photos. I picked up some spacers this afternoon to put on tjat front hub
 






That's the front driveshaft CV joint. That's available as a kit. I've only installed the Dorman kit, I don't know the quality of the more recent brand cheaper kits.
I didn't discover it soon enough my splines were wore smooth. Took tje front drive shaft oit temporarily.
 






Different brands, and even model tires will be different sizes, even if both are 265/70/16s they won’t measure out the same.
 






If it’s been driven too much after making the sound you will damage the splines and ruin your factory shaft. Currently the available shafts are all expensive, and junk. I took my shaft into a driveline shop and had them weld a new spline end in, and balance the shaft, and install a new CV.
That is what jappened. I am waiting for another drive shaft now.
 






Different brands, and even model tires will be different sizes, even if both are 265/70/16s they won’t measure out the same.
I undetstamd that, but I believe the man that mounted the tires was awate that the ball joint was riding on the sidewall amd he knew the tires were not the factory recommended size. He should have told me. I boight some spacers last night to bring the tire away from the ball joint. I just bought these tires last week.
 






If it were me, and they insisted on installing tires sized against manufacturer’s recommendations, and this was the result? I’d be speaking with management.

That said, the BJ isn’t likely the sole cause. The amount of play required would be insane.
 






If it were me, and they insisted on installing tires sized against manufacturer’s recommendations, and this was the result? I’d be speaking with management.

That said, the BJ isn’t likely the sole cause. The amount of play required would be insane.
I intend to do just that.
 






Be careful with spacers, there are a lot of low end types which are dangerous. Those typically have very large holes in them and don't fit the studs or hub hole very well. They are also fairly inexpensive, say $20 for a set.

I have some that were made just for this Ford bolt pattern and the hub center hole. Below you can see the one on my RF rotor, it fits snugly, and that's a 1/4" size, or 6.35mm.

Finished RF 1.JPG
 






Also check the lugnuts with spacers, as they are first put on. The 1/2" stud size must have at least 1/2" worth of thread engagement by the nuts. I had to install longer nuts to be able to use my aftermarket wheels with the spacers, the wheels are thicker at the hub than OEM wheels.

Here's a better picture of the spacer I use, this fits my hubs without any slop.

wheelspacer.JPG
 






What’s the factory size? Are you running factory wheels?

If you can’t afford tires you certainly can’t afford a transfer case.
 






Also check the lugnuts with spacers, as they are first put on. The 1/2" stud size must have at least 1/2" worth of thread engagement by the nuts. I had to install longer nuts to be able to use my aftermarket wheels with the spacers, the wheels are thicker at the hub than OEM wheels.

Here's a better picture of the spacer I use, this fits my hubs without any slop.

View attachment 330263
Well I went to Walmart and raise hell. They ate going to put two 255 Dextero's on tomorrow. I have never had Dectero's. The first offer was they woilf put 255's all the way for 10% off. No that was not my idea of a compromise
 






What’s the factory size? Are you running factory wheels?

If you can’t afford tires you certainly can’t afford a transfer case.
Factory is 255's. I took the front drive shaft out cause it was spent. Have another in the way
 






Factory is 255's. I took the front drive shaft out cause it was spent. Have another in the way
I inherited this Explorer from bother who passed. It is not a vehicle I would have chose. It is what it is.
Also check the lugnuts with spacers, as they are first put on. The 1/2" stud size must have at least 1/2" worth of thread engagement by the nuts. I had to install longer nuts to be able to use my aftermarket wheels with the spacers, the wheels are thicker at the hub than OEM wheels.

Here's a better picture of the spacer I use, this fits my hubs without any slop.

View attachment 330263
The ones I got are generic like you described. They will be returned tomorrow.
 






Factory is 255's. I took the front drive shaft out cause it was spent. Have another in the way
I won't have to worry about the transfer case with the front drive shaft out, right?
 






No, but you still have something considerably wrong with the truck, unless you are running non-factory wheels. A 265 should clear.
 



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Different brands, and even model tires will be different sizes, even if both are 265/70/16s they won’t measure out the same.
Both the old one and the new one are wranglers 265's. How do I post pics on here?
 






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