Class 3 hitch

[jkorn74]

I have installed a new class 3 hitch but I took off the factory class 2 not knowing that the class 3 i bought from uhaul was built to allow the class 2 to still stay on. Should I install the class 2 back on and then put the 3 on?

 

[FordLover]

up to you, I think the twin hitch look is ugly, but mine came with the class 3 factory.

 

[njexpo]

I agree with Fordlover. No need to have both hitches on, and I also think it looks kinda cheesy.

 

[airjeff]

Don't step on the rear bumper then. It's supported by the factory hitch. If it really bugs you to have two hitches, you can buy a class 3 from the dealer. Then it's just a swap. I did mine and think it was well worth the money.

 

[fordnut]

I just did the same thing. I left the class II on. It is actually a structural member. I'd put it back on.

 

[jkorn74]

Thanks everyone..I put the stock II back on. Now I am just trying to figure out how to take the roof rack off

 

[mattyk6]

Can one of you guys take a picture of both hitches installed? I'm debating whether or not to mount the 2" below or swap out.

TIA

 

[trayson]

Don't step on the rear bumper then. It's supported by the factory hitch. If it really bugs you to have two hitches, you can buy a class 3 from the dealer. Then it's just a swap. I did mine and think it was well worth the money.

How much is the class 3 from the dealer? I just got my 2004 XLT and I'm very disappointed to see that it only has the class 2 hitch. Why the heck would you have a class 2 on a V8?!?!?

Everything uses 2" recievers these days. Even if I didn't want to tow big fat class 3 loads, I still need the 2" for my hitch bike rack and my hitch utility rack. Plus all my drawbars are 2"...

Oh, and are there any other places than the "stealership" to buy the OEM class 3 hitch?

 

[mattyk6]

Class 3 from dealer, I've heard is anywhere between $3 and $500. Local welding shop (local Ford dealers send vehicles there instead of getting the stock hitch) will cut out the 1 1/4" hitch and brace in a 2" hitch for $275. This is in the Kent/Auburn/Federal Way area.

 

[trayson]

Can one of you guys that just finished removing their class 2 hitch tell me what you had to do to get it off? I just looked at mine and it appears that you need to remove the bumper to pull the hitch off in the direction of the rear of the rig. Is that correct? It seems like you wouldn't be able to unbolt it and slide it down as it looked like there are flanges on the mounting points of the hitch that wouldn't let it slide down from the frame. (in addition, I'd have to drop my exhaust pipes if sliding it down was the only way to remove it.



IF removing the bumper IS the correct way to get the hitch off, can someone walk me through the steps to take the rear bumper off?

Thanks.

 

[trayson]

Class 3 from dealer, I've heard is anywhere between $3 and $500. Local welding shop (local Ford dealers send vehicles there instead of getting the stock hitch) will cut out the 1 1/4" hitch and brace in a 2" hitch for $275. This is in the Kent/Auburn/Federal Way area.

I live just south of you (in Vancouver). I went over to Foster Auto Parts (wrecking yard in Portland) and was able to get a class 3 hitch with the 2" receiver. It even had the 7-pole trailer wiring and the pigtail to connect it up.

It was in great condition and I picked it up for only $85. I think that was a steal!!!

Solved my problem for sure! They actually have another one. I should have grabbed it and sold it on Ebay. I would have made money for sure.

 

[trayson]

Okay, I replaced my class II hitch with my wrecking yard class III.

I used the Factory Service Manual on DVD-Rom to give me the step by step instructions to do the job.

1) Remove tail lights (two screws on inside of hatch opening)

2) Remove 6 different screws from sides of bumper cover (two are in the top corner of the cover, one is at the very bottom of the bumper on the sides--look at it from laying on the ground to remove these two)

3) Remove the little plastic pins that hold the cover on (there's about 9 of them)

4) Lift up on the corners of the bumper cover, then pull the cover straight back to remove.

5) undo the pigtail for the trailer wiring.

6) Undo the 6 bolts for the hitch, slide straight back to remove.

It really wasn't that hard, but I took my time and somehow I missed removing 2 screws so it took longer. I'm very happy it's changed out now.


By the way, the Class III is in fact beefier than the class 2. The class 3 uses a run of 2" square tubing throughout the hitch (side-to-side), whereas the class 2 uses more of a C-channel that has some metal welded to the back of it in the center. If you look at them side by side, you will be able to see the difference.

 

[foxhundt]

any pics of the dual hitch setup? can you leave a hitch cover in the class 2 and still use the 2" class 3 to haul?