Clunking and shaking

[FR-425]

12mm

 

[FR-425]

Use blue lock-tight when you reassemble.

Torque spec is "good and tight" with a 3/8 ratchet

 

[natenkiki2004]

If it's banging and vibrating that bad, I'd be concerned that the yoke ears are damaged. Look at them closely and maybe share pictures.

 

[SuperKirby]

Will do. I have a spare drive shaft assembly. It's a little rusty but if I need to I can pull the yoke off that one and clean it up and use it. I'll maybe slide the cap from the new u joint in the hole and see if there's any play and if so I'll post some pics. We'll see what happens.

Thanks guys.

 

[2stroke]

I'm not sure you can get a socket on the bolt, there is hardly any room. I always use the box end of a wrench, and it seems to work fine.

 

[SuperKirby]

I'm sure I found the problem, and I think I fixed it. I have to wait until the wife gets home to watch the kids so I can go road test it.

I'll put a picture up of the bad ujoint. I think it will explain the problem well enough

 

[natenkiki2004]

Oh boy, it looks like you got damn lucky. Very close to beating through the end caps and into the yoke.

Glad your issue is a cheap fix.

 

[vq5speed]

Just when you do replace them, make sure you have the drive shaft oriented the say exact way it is now, otherwise you will definitely have to get it rebalanced. Apparently they are balanced while on the vehicle, so that's why.

I'm surprised somebody who knows more about this or has any other ideas hasn't chimed in.

Good luck!

I don't think drivelines are balanced on the vehicles. I don't know where you read our driveshafts are balanced on the vehicle. That doesn't seem practical to me. When I dropped my tranny I never marked my driveline. I've never had any vibrations after putting it back on. I did have a driveline balanced once a long time ago for a custom build I did, It was balanced off the vehicle.

 

[murkinstock]

[MENTION=85020]vq5speed[/MENTION] I have read it somewhere on here, maybe it was false information, it seemed weird to me. That's why I said "apparently." I didn't know if it was true, but would be easy enough to do anyways and be safe rather than sorry.

 

[FR-425]

The muffler bearings are also balanced on the vehicle.. .. ..

 

[murkinstock]

The muffler bearings are also balanced on the vehicle.. .. ..

Sh*t I need to go get mine balanced.

I tried looking up the drive shaft thing, can't find it. I guess I was hallucinating. :scratch:

This is the weirdest thing, I swear I can even see the picture where the person drew lines on it.

 

[FR-425]

Sh*t I need to go get mine balanced.

I tried looking up the drive shaft thing, can't find it. I guess I was hallucinating. :scratch:

This is the weirdest thing, I swear I can even see the picture where the person drew lines on it.

I think I know the thread you are talking about but it's not balance, but yoke alignment their talking about.

You do want to mark the slip yoke so that you get it back on in the same orientation.

Many drive lines have the splines "keyed" to keep the u-joints at 90* to each other, this one however does not.

You want the u-joints like this ++ not like this X+ or it'll bind.

 

[FR-425]

Here's some more info

here's what my ford CD says:

1. Remove driveshaft as illustrated in this section.

2. Scribe alignment marks on the driveshaft slip-yoke and the driveshaft tube to ensure proper U-joint phasing when reassembled.

3. Remove the driveshaft slip-yoke boot clamps with the end cutter pliers as shown. Discard the driveshaft slip-yoke boot clamps.
4. Remove the driveshaft slip-yoke boot from the driveshaft tube neck and the driveshaft slip yoke. Pull driveshaft slip-yoke off driveshaft stub shaft splines. Discard driveshaft slip-yoke boot.

5. If the driveshaft slip-yoke boot is found to be cracked or split, the grease should be checked for contamination. If driveshaft was operating satisfactorily and grease does not appear to be contaminated, continue with the installation procedure.

6. Check the lubricant for contamination by rubbing between two fingers. Any gritty feeling indicates a contaminated driveshaft slip-yoke and stub shaft. If the grease appears to be contaminated, inspect the stub shaft and driveshaft slip-yoke for wear. Clean all foreign matter from the driveshaft splines.
Installation

1. Install the driveshaft slip-yoke boot with the small diameter facing the splined stub shaft end. Push the driveshaft slip-yoke boot as far as it will travel on the stub shaft.
2. Install a new small driveshaft slip-yoke boot clamp and crimp the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.
3. Pull the driveshaft slip-yoke boot toward the driveshaft and coat the stub shaft splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

4. Fill the driveshaft slip-yoke boot with approximately 10 grams (.36 ounce) of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

5. Slide the large slip-yoke boot clamp onto the barrel of the driveshaft slip-yoke before assembling shaft together.

6. Align the driveshaft slip-yoke and driveshaft tube using the alignment marks scribed in Step 2 of the Removal procedure. Push the driveshaft slip-yoke onto the stub shaft.

7. Remove all excess grease from the driveshaft slip-yoke boot and driveshaft slip-yoke. Position the driveshaft slip-yoke boot over the groove.

8. Move the driveshaft slip-yoke in or out in order to position the slip-yoke about 25-38mm (1-1.5 inches) from the collapsed position.

9. Using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A, crimp the large driveshaft slip-yoke boot clamp.

10. Reinstall driveshaft as illustrated in this section.

 

[FR-425]

Of course you do want to pull the yoke off and lube it. So be sure to mark it as described.

You can get the stainless steel "zip tie" thingy here:

http://www.amazon.com/010202-Stainless-Steel-Locking-Ties/dp/B000E283SA

and a generic slip yoke boot here, if ya need one:

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetra...aspx?t_c=12&t_s=515&t_pt=5797&t_pn=CRO4798123

 

[vq5speed]

I'm sure its possible but why would you. its not necessary you could balance tires on the car but why would you. How would it actually be done? On a balance machine the machine would know how to compute the balance. On the driveline connected between the tranny and the rear end how would you hook up a balance machine to the driveline.

 

[FR-425]

Ford calls for water-proof molybdinum grease in the slip yoke. (boat axle grease) duh

 

[Bobmbx]

You weren't far from dropping the shaft. Sometimes they just drop to the ground and drag, sometimes they whip around and re-configure the bottom of your car.

 

[2stroke]

I'm glad you found the problem, Its one of the very rare instances my posts actually kept someone from being stranded.

 

[murkinstock]

I think I know the thread you are talking about but it's not balance, but yoke alignment their talking about.

You do want to mark the slip yoke so that you get it back on in the same orientation.

Many drive lines have the splines "keyed" to keep the u-joints at 90* to each other, this one however does not.

You want the u-joints like this ++ not like this X+ or it'll bind.

I suppose that's probably it. Thanks. I was really getting confused. Interesting.

 

[SuperKirby]

I'll be honest, when i saw that there was an instant little pucker knowing that i got away with one. I suspect that want too far from a failure.
I'm still surprised that even with cranking on the drive shaft for all i was worth i couldn't detect any play until i took the weight off the drivetrain.
I took it out for a spin this afternoon and it's a million times better. It still has some shake between above about 60, but i suspect this summer when i do the front end it will be better.