Clunking, Popping noise

[ed4uluv]

I have a 97 ford explorer AWD and everytime I engaged into drive it pops louds and clunks also, when I am driving. I am a computer person not automobile, could I please get some help. Thanks to all in advance.COul. ol

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Which part do you hear the clunking noise coming from? I suspect that it might be a U joint, or a CV joint. Do you hear this sound everytime you tap on the accelerator pedal? Does it only happen only at a certain speed?Apply the parking brake, and tap on the accelerator pedal. Do you hear that same clunk? If so, then it is most probably the U joint.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Before U joints start to become completely bad with a lot of play to make a clunking noise, they often start to squeek. This could give the impression that a rear bearing is bad. The squeek is only heard when there is only light acceleration, and goes away after you start coasting above a few miles per hour. It might be very possibe that your chain in the transfer case isn't so good either. How many miles are on your vehicle? I once had a timing chain that was making a lot of noise. It was a little stretched, and had slack. After replacing it, the noise went away. The chain had about 100,000 miles on it.

 

[StillKicken]

BrooklynBay, My X "squeaks" a little when I first start to move. Comes from underneath. Faster I go, faster it goes. Stops at about 20mph, then from 25 to 55, when accelerating only, the whole truck shakes. Not enough to throw it in a ditch, but pretty violently. Sometimes worse than others. Got new tires, shocks, and put on Poly control arm bushings, shortly before this started. Took it back to Sears to have my new tires rebalanced and they said it was not the universal joints. Tranny has 265k miles. Watcha think? When put in gear, not really a clunk, more like a ticking or popping like an electrical actuater, relay is ticking. Fluid level fine, doesn't smell burnt. Ran codes, only one was a KOEO 332. Thanks for help.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you check your wheel bearings, and the rear bearings on the differential? That transmission has very high mileage. Check my thread on 2, and 3 EEC-IV codes: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160035

 

[StillKicken]

Front wheel bearings new, as are rotos and brakes. Have not checked rear. Now, does in drive also, but a lot worse in reverse, but i hear this "Ticking, clicking" when go in reverse. Worse when reversing uphill. Had my father drive while I was ouside next to it and almost sounded coming from passenger side leaf spring, but know that can't be right. Can ya think of another part near there it could have come from?

Thank you very much for your help by the way!

 

[Turdle]

Emergency brake assembly
Adjusts in reverse,
could be the linkage--or springs inside the rear hub?

try this
back up and stop vehicle with the e-brake,,, see what happens.
It may clunk good, then noise goes away.

 

[StillKicken]

Sorry its been a couple of days. Wife and kids have been sick leaving me to witts end taking care of all! *whew* Glad thats over.

Finally took to Ford and tol me it was the UJs and Yoke. $30 for UJs and $180 for yoke and bushing. Is the bushing the "extension housing bushing"

Thank y'all for y'alls help. Will let know how turns out.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The bushing is a sleeve that goes into the area where the yoke goes into. Which side were they referring to? Was it for the differential, transfer case (4WD), extension housing (2WD), or the front? Were these prices for the parts, and labor? Usually the slip yoke just needs to be greased, and the bushings are a few dollars. U joints are about $8-$15.

 

[StillKicken]

The bushing is for the extension housing. They didn't take anything apart, so don't know why they said yoke needs to be replaced. Bought the UJ's and oil seal today. Can not seem to find the extension housing bushing, nor the tool to put it on / take it off. Figured I could engineer a way to get it out, but don't want to tear up the new one when I put it on.

 

[StillKicken]

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/automotive_service-bushing_driver_set-d.html

Think I found the tool to get the bushing on/off. Anyone know how large the bushing is?

 

[BrooklynBay]

WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com has bushings as well as any local transmission parts outlet. You have to remove the extension housing to pull out the bushing. You could use a socket the size of the bushing to drive it in, and remove the old one. Usually the rear seal goes, not the bushing. The seal could be changed in place without disassembling anything. You just need a $5 seal puller, a prybar, or a thick screwdriver. You could drive the new seal in with a piece of pipe.

 

[StillKicken]

Bushing could be gone...has 265k miles on it. Hmmm...Seal is fine...no leaks.
Don't know about yoke. maybe if has grooves in it. Read on another site, where it had rounded out inside. Being a machine opertor, could see this happening.
Don't think I'll be removing the extension housing. Don't know if I trust myself. Just got underneath my X, looks like alot of parts to disassemble.

 

[StillKicken]

Extension housing bushing
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/category_s/11554.htm
$1.26
www.fordpartsdiscounted.com
$20.79

Big difference....

 

[BrooklynBay]

That's why I recommended them.

 

[StillKicken]

Good Point!!!

 

[BrooklynBay]

That is a nice bushing driver set at a good price in post # 11. Thanks for posting the link!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here is a similar set from Harbor Freight for $7.99: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38145

 

[StillKicken]

Thanks for your help! Will have to order all parts. Hopefully be able to do it the next weekend. Found a yoke at a local salvage yard for $35. Hopefully is good. Hate to replace my yoke with a bum one. Will let ya know how everything turns out.
One question: When I put the new yoke on, do I need to take that and the driveshaft and have it balanced?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Who balances driveshafts other than a manufacturer?