Clutch Adjustment

[PCTechman]

I installed a new clutch 56,000 miles ago. No towing and minimal use of
4WD. Highway driving @ 55-60 with cruise control on, clutch slips when coming to a grade. Engine rpms go up to 3K and then clutch grabs again returning to normal rpm. The original clutch went 135K and the owner towed a boat for the first 55K, I put the other 80K on it. Is there any adjustment for wear on this? Nothing else has changed; pedal height and pressure is the same. I find it hard to believe a new complete clutch kit would only give me 55K with normal on road use. If I have to change it, I plan to go with a Centerforce dual friction setup instead of OEM type replacement clutch kits.
Thanks,
PCTechman

 

[RangerX]

No adjustment. What brand did you use last time?

 

[PCTechman]

I didn't think so. Stock Auto Parts Wagner-Bendix supplied by the mechanic. This time I'll buy the stronger Centerforce aftermarket stuff and bring it to a mechanic. I found a Centerforce Dual friction clutch for 290 with shipping, but I need to buy a specific Centerforce throwout bearing to work with the setup. It'll probably cost me the same without their markup on the parts but I'm sure they'll want more for the labor, but I know I'll have HD parts installed this time. I was in a jam last time and broke down. I needed it done ASAP as it is my only daily driver. Anyone know of an aftermarket slave cylinder? I can only find stock replacement brands like Dorman or Bendix.

Thanks Anyway!!!

 

[RangerX]

I went with the LUK package from dialaclutch. It came with everything, and LUK is what Ford uses.
They sell the slave seperate. It was identical to the factory one.

 

[Jason94sport]

"but I need to buy a specific Centerforce throwout bearing to work with the setup"

NO YOU DO NOT!

The TOB is part of the slave cylinder. Centerforce incorrectly gives this info still. I know cause I had it & returned it cause it was not needed.

Another note the explorer application does not use the little weights that other Centerforce clutches use. It's just a PP & a dual friction disk. It's a stronger unit I think over a stock setup, but you don't get all the benefits Centerforce advertises on an Explorer application.

 

[PCTechman]

Clutch Replacement

Hey Jason94Sport,

Thanks for the heads up...saves me time & $$$. I hate when they tell you you need their part and you go nuts to get it and then you don't need it. According to RangerX, I might be better off with LUK Gold..
I can probably get it from RockAuto...

RangerX,

How many miles you got on your LUK setup? If it's what Ford uses I'll go with that, I got 135K on the original clutch and the previous owner used it for the first 53K to haul stuff and tow his boat.

Thanks,
PCTechman

 

[RangerX]

I got about 200,000 out of the stock clutch.

I probably have 20,000 in two years on the new LUK. I retired the Ranger from daily driver status when I spent a month learning how to replace the clutch. I bought the F250 to get to work at that time.

I could see the stock clutch had the LUK 'stamp' on it when I pulled it, so I felt good going with LUK.

Nothing wrong with centerforce, by the way.

 

[PCTechman]

Clutch Replacement

200K on a stock clutch? That's Great! The price of the Centerforce dual friction setup and separate slave is about the same as the LuK gold series. Since it's a little stronger to boot, I'll probably go with Centerforce, even if you don't get all the other benefits that Centerforce advertises as JasonSport94 brought to my attention. I'm also thinking while the Ex is apart, I should have the mechanic replace the tranny front seal, too. Is it a big job or just a simple seal like on an automatic tranny? Any preference on brand of slave cylinder to buy?

Thanks For Your Help Guys!
PCTechman