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Clutch install - Shop or DIY?

I would be leery about jacking up all 4 wheel on jack stands while the truck is on a slant. I can just now imagine if it were up on 4 stands it wouldn't take much for all the jack stands to all fall over like dominos.

I would leave the back wheels on the ground, chocked, with the e-brake on with only the front wheels on jack stands. This way the truck has great traction so it will not slide back down with you underneath it.

If the truck was completely on jack stands, the stands would not have as much traction to keep the explorer from going down hill with you underneath.
 



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You want the truck up as high as you can get it, which usually means having four jackstands, one under each TTB in the front, and one on each side of the rear axle. It's real tough to get the transfer case and tranny out from under the truck otherwise.

You'll save yourself a lot of time if you wire brush the exposed threads of the Y-pipe to exhaust manifold bolts, and take off the Y-pipe with the cats before trying to drop the tranny. It's possible, but not worth the hassle, especially since it's even worse when re-installing the tranny. You'll need long extensions to get to these bolts, and a good breaker bar to bust them loose. You'll need to disconnect the O2 sensors behind the engine/top of the tranny so you don't bust the wires.

You might want to look into a transmission adapter rather than risking trying to drop the tranny yourself with a normal saddle on a floor jack. The adapter makes it super easy to angle the tranny just right for install, too. If you can get a hand from someone else so the tranny doesn't fall off the jack or go to one side or the other, you might be able to get away with not using an adapter.

You don't need a new flywheel unless yours is messed up.

You should DEFINITELY change the slave. The slaves go on M5OD's like crazy. I suggest an OEM slave from the dealer. Aftermarket just doesn't last as long. They come with the throwout bearing already installed.

This is a good time to change all the fluids in the transfer case and tranny, too. It's pretty involved draining and refilling the transfer case on the truck. You can drain the tranny before dropping it, then fill it up before installing.
 






Sweet

If the exhaust needs removal, do you do it from the headers?
I might have to cut it and run it straight for a little bit if so!::eek:

The part about the slave cylinder and filling it first or after confused me a little, but I'm sure with this forum and my haynes I should be fine! Thanks.
 






I would be leery about jacking up all 4 wheel on jack stands while the truck is on a slant. I can just now imagine if it were up on 4 stands it wouldn't take much for all the jack stands to all fall over like dominos.

I would leave the back wheels on the ground, chocked, with the e-brake on with only the front wheels on jack stands. This way the truck has great traction so it will not slide back down with you underneath it.

If the truck was completely on jack stands, the stands would not have as much traction to keep the explorer from going down hill with you underneath.

That was my plan. Have had it on 4 stands before and it's pretty sketchy!:thumbdwn::eek::thumbdwn:.
Thanks

I only have myself and a limited budget.
$peaking of that, I have to wait till next week to do the job so I can get the rest of the pasts I need. Guess it me and the bike for now!:D
 






If you can get a hand from someone else so the tranny doesn't fall off the jack or go to one side or the other, you might be able to get away with not using an adapter.
This is the part that scares me. Not that I haven't done it this way before, but it was a T-5 out of a Thunderbird and it was still difficult to manage, even with two people. Get a tranny jack or an adapter or don't even think about taking on this project by yourself... Best of luck!
 






How much are those?
 






Not all that hard t do with a friend. just remember where all the bolts go, transfer case can stay in, so basically remove ground from battery ,unbolt the exhauast y at the front and remove it(disconnect O2 sensors), unbolt the starter remove drive axles, unhook and remove the VSS sensor( I bent mine and had to change it), unbolt tranny support and remove tranny. Definately change that slave cylinder or theres a good chance you'll be removing that tranny again.
 






How much are those?

Here's a few on ebay just to get a price range
http://search.ebay.com/search/searc...&satitle=transmission+jack+adapter&category0=
http://cgi.ebay.com/TRANSMISSION-AD...ryZ11704QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
And heres one from northern tool
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200332755_200332755

But if you had someone's help for 20mins you wont even need a jack, once you remove the crossmember, one person grabs the back of the tranny and the other gets the front and you just pull it out and the same goes with putting it back in.
 






Sweet

If the exhaust needs removal, do you do it from the headers?
I might have to cut it and run it straight for a little bit if so!::eek:

The part about the slave cylinder and filling it first or after confused me a little, but I'm sure with this forum and my haynes I should be fine! Thanks.

The exhaust Y-pipe is held in by two bolts on each manifold at the front, and two bolts holding the 2nd cat to the muffler pipe. Remove the front bolts from underneath the truck, using a 24" extension and possibly a breaker bar or long handle ratchet to get enough leverage.

The slave is just held in by two bolts. Once you drop the tranny, you just take out the old one and put in the new. Bleed the clutch once everything is completely back together and you're in business.


91exploreron37 said:
But if you had someone's help for 20mins you wont even need a jack, once you remove the crossmember, one person grabs the back of the tranny and the other gets the front and you just pull it out and the same goes with putting it back in.

It can take a looooong time to line up the tranny just right and get the right angle so it slides back on all the way. I'd hate to be lifting it, even with someone else, trying to hold it up AND push it on.

For a one person job, an adapter is just safer.
 






there shouldnt be any reason to have to jack the back up. use the gravity of the downhill to help the tranny slide back. o and instead of buying a new fly wheel or taking it to get it resurfaced just take some rough a$$ sand paper and resurface it yourself. :thumbsup:
 






Seriously? Can I do that?
 






sure. as long as its not to hamard. iv dont it on my old toyota and on my x without any problems. just be sure to do a good job "scratching" part of it. its either tht or pay 20 bucks to have someone at a shop do the same thing.
 






Yea I didnt have to jack the rear end of mine up either and my driveway's flat. But actually if you take it to a shop to have it resurfaced they actually put it on a lathe and take a layer of metal off exactly like a brake rotor. You can sandpaper it down if the flywheel is in good condition but I'm not suggesting you do that, its up to you on that one.
 






Will it be obvious if the flywheel is Skrewd?

My truck is on a slant with the front going up. So the, use the gravity to assist putting the back, wont work!
 






Sorry. I did it with the help of my mechanic friend. We started on a Saturday and went till Thursday. Probably would have taken 3 full days. We took our time and broke one and stressed 2 other flywheel bolts. So we had to find some of those.

All is all...........PITA!!!!!!!:thumbsup:

Glad it's over with and hopefully IF it goes out again I will have access to a shop and lift!
 












Yea or it will be lifted higher:D

No doubt about that. I hope to have a 3" BL on by then. I would assume that would make more room to get things in and out. Like the two top bolts.
 






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