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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
My slave cylinder is going bad and I want to replace. I was thinking I will just change out the whole clutch set. A friend of mine told me that my transmission is a pain in the ass to replace those items. Is it true that this is more difficult then on other trucks?
Ive done some research. The friend tells me that the slave is a pain. To me it just looks like a couple of hoses and two bolts to remove it. Is this correct?
If they are the same as the gen1/2 slave you need to drop the tranny to ge the slave out since the main shaft goes through the middle of the slave cylinder.
If you are going to pull the tranny then it would be a great idea to replace the clutch and pressure plate and resurface the flywheel when you have it apart. That way you will not have to pull it for a while.
BTW.. how do you know your slave cylinder is bad? you may want to make sure there is no air in the line. And also flush the fluid with some brand new DOT. Old fluid gets very spongy when it gets old so it can appear as though you have a problem when it is really only bad fluid.
I will take a look at some of the bleeding proceedures then and look into changing the fluid. I have a hard time getting into first gear, sometimes have I to go to second gear first or have to force it.
I will take a look at some of the bleeding proceedures then and look into changing the fluid. I have a hard time getting into first gear, sometimes have I to go to second gear first or have to force it.
I had the same problem with a ranger and it turned out to be air in the line. The downside is that the master cylinder needs to be removed from the firewall and rotated to get all the air out if there is some in the line.
Start with bleeding the system and adding fresh DOT you may get lucky and be able to get the air out. Just be careful when bleeding the clutch to always have the reservoir full so you don't actually draw more air into the system.
If you find the pedal still soft remove the master cyl from the firewall and rotate it (while connected) so the piston (part that attaches to pedal) is pointing down. Then slowly pump it by hand with the bleed valve open and bleed the entire system. You will probably see air bubble coming out. After I did that so my truck it is still running strong today (3 years later).
I don't know how the air got in there in the first place, my only guess is the fluid was so broke down that it actually allowed the seals to leak. Or when I was 4wheelen the fluid got low enough and the truck bounced enough to suck air into the cylinder during a shift. I had also added a brake sealer additive to help the seals it is a very thick viscous fluid that is supposed to help soften the seals.
