clutch slave quick disconnect - question

[94_explorer]

I'm going to bleed my clutch system tomorrow. In one case, the instructions suggest removing the coupling during the process. In another case, the instructions suggest replacing the clutch tube with quick disconnect when servicing the hydraulic system. However, it says that the replacement tube DOES NOT include a quick connect! So, what does that mean, exactly? What type of connection does it have? Do you remove it differently than the quick connect? I crawled under there and took a look tonight. The tube has a brass cylinder that is attached to the slave, but there isn't a plastic doohicky as far as I can tell. So, I'm not sure if I actually need the coupling removal tool or not.

Do any of you know what I speaking of? Any tips would be really appreciated.

Thanks,
Marc

 

[RangerX]

If you're only bleeding the system, DO NOT disconnect the line.

Here's 410Fortune's clutch bleeding instructions: "Whoever depresses the pedal have them do it slowly and to the floor like 3 times. Hold it, then you just barely open the bleeder with the wrench.
The slave is a pain because you cant really catch the fluid or use a jar to keep air from going back in.
So just barely open it, let fluid out slowly, then close.
Then release the pedal, do this 5-10 times and I dont care what system it is it is bled."

 

[94_explorer]

Well, that's funny. I downloaded a PDF that was referenced on this site. It's from the ford repair manual - I think -or another repair manual. Step 1. Disconnect the Clutch Master Cylinder Coupling Tube at transmission.

Also, by disconnecting the line, you can bleed the system to that point - check the pressure on the pedal. This way I can test my Master Cylinder before bleeding the slave. That's what I think, but I could be way wrong. I guess I'll try to bleed the system first without disconnecting and see how that goes.

 

[RangerX]

Well, let's go back. Why are you bleeding the clutch?

 

[94_explorer]

Well, let's go back. Why are you bleeding the clutch?

Ok. Well, I just had my clutch and slave replaced. I drove it home (70 miles) and everything seemed fine. The next day, I started hearing this noise when I was out. It was a whirling clicking noise. Not good. Later on, the clutch died and the pedal went limp. I checked the fluid and it was dry. I wanted to bleed the clutch to see what would happen if I tried to build up the hydraulic pressure.

Fast Forward. I just finished my experiment. I Didn't detach the coupling. I bled the system successfully and I was able to build up the pressure. But as I continued to pump the clutch, more fluid was escaping. I finally started it up to see if I could shift. No dice. I checked the fluid - gone. I inspected the tranny again and fluid was dripping where the bell housing attaches to the engine. There is a hole there, and that's where the fluid appeared to be coming from. So, obviously the fluid is draining into the bell housing.

So, I don't know exactly what this means. Is it the slave that broke? Is it the throwout bearing? Does fluid in the bell housing ruin the new clutch plate?

My other dilemma is this. The mechanic was my dad's mechanic and he's 70 miles from my home. Ouch. I don't know if this was his fault or if it's a faulty part. His stance at this point is that if I can get it there, he'll fix it. But towing is over 300 bucks, so I'm not gonna pay that. He reluctantly suggested that I drive it up there without a clutch. My tranny is on it's last leg, and who knows what's going on in there with the clutch. No way am I driving it 70 miles without a clutch - and I won't let him do it either.
So, I'm stumped at this point. I don't know if I should ask for a refund or what. I am considering taking it to a local mechanic, but that'll drain my limited cash. The other option is to get a tranny jack and take the tranny out myself.

The saga continues...

 

[RangerX]

Okay. I'll guess the new slave is leaking, that's what the line hitches to in the bellhousing. Maybe he used a cheapo one, or maybe it was just bad.

I don't know if the ATF fluid will harm the clutch plate. But sounds like you're going to have to drop the tranny. You can do it. I did mine, and I had no clue what I was doing. I recommend a new slave from dialaclutch. It'll be same as stock. Or maybe when you get in there, you'll see why it's leaking, and it'll be something simple. :fingerscrossed:

 

[94_explorer]

Okay. I'll guess the new slave is leaking, that's what the line hitches to in the bellhousing. Maybe he used a cheapo one, or maybe it was just bad.

I don't know if the ATF fluid will harm the clutch plate. But sounds like you're going to have to drop the tranny. You can do it. I did mine, and I had no clue what I was doing. I recommend a new slave from dialaclutch. It'll be same as stock. Or maybe when you get in there, you'll see why it's leaking, and it'll be something simple. :fingerscrossed:

Thanks for your replies. It helps. I am thinking more and more that I'm just going to drop it myself. I have the time. I'd rather spend the money on some good tools and a tranny jack from harbor freight than pay another mechanic 400 bucks or pay 300 buck to tow it. It's going to take some effort, but the fact that it was just out leads me to believe that some of the bolts will come off more easily. If I can do this then I'll be that much more independent. I probably should have just done it myself to begin with. If you want something done right, you've got to do it yourself, no?

The only thing that has me doubting myself is that I won't know what to look for when I drop it down and look at the slave. How will I know if the slave is bad? What else will I have to look for? Will it be obvious if the throwout bearing is shot or if the slave fried? Will I be able to tell if the mechanic screwed up or not?

Note Added:
The clutch kit was supposed to be a Sachs as was the slave. I don't know for sure because my old man had them shipped from his parts guy directly to the mechanic who did the first 'job'. I was going to get the LuK, so maybe I'll get the LuK slave - OR if the slave is bad I'll have the parts guy replace it.

One more Q. My brother has these tire ramps that he drives his car onto. Would they work for this job or should I jack it up and put it on stands?

 

[94_explorer]

UPDATE:

Well, I just finished another inspection and test. I first disconnected the coupling from the slave. I wanted to determine that the master is still functioning properly, and it is. Next I removed the inspection plug (the big rubber plug that is on the drivers side of the bell housing) and inpected the slave and the pressure plate. The pressure plate had some fluid on it. I couldn't see a leak on the slave hydraulic line fittings. However, when a friend pushed in the pedal, I could see the slave 'try' to disengage the clutch (it only moved it a little) and I could see the fluid coming out where the slave meets the pressure plate. So, this leads me to believe that a seal is bad on the slave or that the throwout bearing is bad. However, I don't really know if my diagnosis is correct.

Does anyone have a guess? How will I know if it's the result of a bad part or mechanic's error?

 

[03Kodiak]

Yup, that's a bad slave...

I'm just putting the trans back up into my '92 as I type (Actually just looking for repositioning advice) for the exact same reason... (Supposedly) New Clutch (Truck is new to me) and same symptoms as you said... Removed trans and old slave literally fell apart... Picked up a Tru-Torque Slave at Advance for $85.00, still waiting to try it (hope to have moving very soon, I'm just taking my time)...

 

[94_explorer]

Yup, that's a bad slave...

I'm just putting the trans back up into my '92 as I type (Actually just looking for repositioning advice) for the exact same reason... (Supposedly) New Clutch (Truck is new to me) and same symptoms as you said... Removed trans and old slave literally fell apart... Picked up a Tru-Torque Slave at Advance for $85.00, still waiting to try it (hope to have moving very soon, I'm just taking my time)...

Well best of luck to ya! You're farther ahead than I am at this point. I am going to gather everything this weekend, and I plan on starting the job on Wed. I'm fully expecting to be working on it through the weekend. Maybe longer. It will depend upon how quickly the parts guy can turn everything around.

 

[03Kodiak]

Cool... good luck... It was my first time pulling a transmission and it is a lot easier than it looks... Just a pain in the A$$ if you don't have the right tools (ie: tranny jack)... My method of avoiding the tranny jack involved a tow strap and two friends in the cab of the truck pulling... lol... Note to self: next time, use tranny jack...

 

[94_explorer]

Cool... good luck... It was my first time pulling a transmission and it is a lot easier than it looks... Just a pain in the A$$ if you don't have the right tools (ie: tranny jack)... My method of avoiding the tranny jack involved a tow strap and two friends in the cab of the truck pulling... lol... Note to self: next time, use tranny jack...

Wow, that must have been tough! I've read where people use jack stands in the cab with a pipe, and then use a strap, but I think the tranny jack should do the trick. My only concern is getting the truck up high enough to be able to pull the tranny out from under the bottom. I'm going to measure twice...