Cold Weather Start issue (but cycling a dozen or so times helps)

[SaltCoveredFord]

(I hate creating new threads but my exact issue doesn't seem to be in any of the others I've read.)

So I've posted previously about my battery drain issues I had last winter. The issue was worked around by pulling the fuse that handles the GEM (and power windows/instrument cluster) when I don't have the truck running. Weather warmed up - no longer had to pull the fuse. As soon as it got colder, the first time the truck hesitated on startup I started pulling it again.

Now it seems, even with pulling this fuse, the truck is struggling to start on cold days. I've been reading through the forums and used the advice to cycle the ignition off and on to get the truck started. It has worked, though it seems to take several (if not 10+) times cycling to work. And with the weather getting colder by the day, i'm wondering for how long it will work.

I spoke with my brother, who used to be a ford service manager. He explained to me that when I cycle the ignition the fuel pump builds up pressure and likely what is happening is so many cycles finally builds up enough pressure to start the truck. I guess the assumption is there is an issue with (or to/from) the fuel pump. He also asked when the last time I changed the fuel filter was - and having taken the truck to a quick-lube place for all of it's oil changes I cannot remember when/if I had been asked (or agreed) to have the fuel filter changed. That will be one of the first things I'm planning on checking.

I also see all kinds of posts here about gaskets possibly needing to be replaced, etc and the fact that they are an issue when it is colder (because summer = expanding gaskets?). The truck is up to about 130k miles, so a fuel pump isn't out of the question - i was just hoping to get more info before I head to the dealership. My fear is they'll drop the gas tank, do their testing, and everything will looks just fine.... until I try to start it the next morning.

Any insight would be appreciated,

-Salty

 

[2000StreetRod]

which engine?

In your other thread you never identified which engine you have.

The fuel filter should be changed every 30,000 miles. If you don't remember asking or paying for it to be changed then it probably hasn't been changed since you got your Eddie Bauer. I suggest that you do so even if it's not the cause of your problem. See Why change fuel filter?

Your pump could be weak due to age, pushing fuel thru a clogged fuel filter or because of a low battery voltage due to your unsolved current drain. I suggest: Fuel pressure test procedure

 

[SaltCoveredFord]

In your other thread you never identified which engine you have.

The fuel filter should be changed every 30,000 miles. If you don't remember asking or paying for it to be changed then it probably hasn't been changed since you got your Eddie Bauer. I suggest that you do so even if it's not the cause of your problem. See Why change fuel filter?

Your pump could be weak due to age, pushing fuel thru a clogged fuel filter or because of a low battery voltage due to your unsolved current drain. I suggest: Fuel pressure test procedure

Thanks for the reply. I'm checking out the fuel pressure thread now. I've also been reading through my haynes manual on the fuel filter replacement. As for engine type - it's a v6 - I'll have to check if it's SOHC or not.

As for low battery voltage, that seems to definitely be a factor - because this morning cycling the ignition 10 or so times and then trying to start the truck caused it to turn over, but immediately stall out. I attempted the process three or four times but I really wasn't making any progress.

I hooked up my wife's van with jumper cables and tried to start the truck - it didn't turn over. I stepped on the gas for about 2 seconds and then went back to my truck and it started right up.

The battery & charging system have been tested numerous times because of my battery drain issue previously. I've tested the battery drain when the fuse is out - it should not be enough to drain the battery significantly (the cold does that pretty well itself). Perhaps the cold-stricken battery doesn't have enough juice to push enough fuel/pressure through the (assumed) dirty filter. And getting a jump helps things along.

So I'll do the fuel pressure test - depending on the outcome I'll attempt to replace the fuel filter and see if that does the trick. If not, I'll take all the info about the issue to the stealership and see how much they hit me for.

As a side note - I've noticed on Amazon some battery wraps that plugs into an extension cord (from your house) and keeps your battery warm for nights colder than 35 degrees. The ones I'm looking at are relatively inexpensive and would come in handy overnight until I get this issue resolved. Anyone had experience with those? Think I would wake to my explorer engulfed in flames?

Salty

Edit - Also, I forgot to mention that when I'm cycling the ignition - occasionally the pump will not turn on. The majority of the time I can hear it whirring right up - but the last day or two I'll turn the key to "on" and hear nothing. Usually after 3-4 more tries it starts whirring again. Seems odd - but I'm not sure if there's a point in which the fuel pump says "ok, we need to stop this dummy from building up too much pressure".

 

[SaltCoveredFord]

Well I've been to two auto parts stores which both had the same fuel pressure gauge. The gauge read that it was valid for certain makes and models - nothing after 1995. The guy at one of the shops said it was likely because of a metric change.

Frustrated I called a nearby lube place that quoted me $60 if I bring in the filter. I asked If they could check the pressure at the pump, but they said they could not. They looked in my history and didn't see any fuel filter replacements, but I'm assuming it happened at my 90k service at the dealership. Evidently the job was easier than estimated, because they only charged me $25 (plus the $12 I paid for a motorcraft filter. We'll see what happens - any suggestions on where to find gauges?

-Salty

 

[GuardianSport]

Maybe it is the Idle Air Control?

My truck has trouble starting, but after I cleaned the IAC, not a single stall or struggle yet.

 

[bobflood]

Repeated battery drains are hard on the battery. I had an air suspension pump issue on a Navigator that I neglected until it finally killed a battery. So you might have that issue with your battery based on your past drain issues. However, I agree with streetrod - change the fuel filter and then test the fuel pressure to eliminate or confirm fuel pump issue.

 

[my98nnj]

Edit - Also, I forgot to mention that when I'm cycling the ignition - occasionally the pump will not turn on. The majority of the time I can hear it whirring right up - but the last day or two I'll turn the key to "on" and hear nothing. Usually after 3-4 more tries it starts whirring again. Seems odd - but I'm not sure if there's a point in which the fuel pump says "ok, we need to stop this dummy from building up too much pressure".

You might simply have a fuel pump relay issue causing all your starting issues.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Fuel pressure gauge

As mentioned in my Fuel pressure test procedure I purchased my gauge from Harbor Freight Tools on sale for $10. I think the regular price is $20. It has all the fittings needed to connect to the Schrader valve under the hood.

 

[SaltCoveredFord]

Well it was the coldest morning yet (19 degrees) and the truck fired up on the first try since being shut off 12+ hours earlier. It hasn't done that in over a week. I'm not convinced it was just the fuel filter, but it certainly seemed to help.

I'll see if Harbor Freight has a local store or is online.

 

[SaltCoveredFord]

Well it's still much better than it was before - but I've noticed when I start (even if i let the fuel pump finish before I attempt to start) there is some hesitation like it might stall. Stepping on the gas for a second after it has started remedies the situation. Not sure for how long though.

Ordering the fuel pump tester from harbor freight online. It's $18 for the tester plus $9 shipping (oof!) - but nobody local has one that says it'll work with the explorer and the ones they do have are twice as much. Closest harbor freight is 40 min away - worth the $9 to not have to go there.

 

[SaltCoveredFord]

When I explained the issue to a friend this weekend and that the fuel filter seemed to help quite a bit he suggested I buy a can of BG44k and use that. He said if the filter was bad enough to cause an issue - who knows what crap may have gotten through and it may have affected the spray pattern. He said the 44k will help get rid of crud that may have built up and might be affecting the spray. I remember reading in some of the other threads on this site that the spray pattern could definitely cause fuel flow issues. Any thoughts?

Gonnna pick up a can because I (hopefully) doubt it could hurt to try.

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuel injector cleaner

I always add a can of fuel injector cleaner after replacing the fuel filter. I use only Techron.