Continued problems with manual trans

[JTCamp]

Hello everyone

I have a 2004 Mazda B3000 with the manual transmission. I cannot begin to tell you how frustrated I am with this problem. Hopefully you might have some insight.

It started with a squeaking noise coming from the master cylinder and after a week the pedal began to stick on its way up. The clutch did not ever appear to slip. The pedal would stick or be slow to retract after it reached the 1/2 way point. It only happened after the truck had warmed up. When the truck was cool the system worked flawlessly. Additionally, in traffic or when it was hot outside, say above 90 degrees, the problem was most noticeable. It got to a point where I thought the pedal might stick and not move.

On the advice of Gary at Perfection Clutch I decide to replace the slave cylinder. I had noticed that when I removed the quick connect fitting to the slave that the check valve, on the slave, slowly moved and then closed. There was also some fluid that came out. I removed the slave and the bearing and both were very worn. This discovery coupled with the slow to close check valve assured me that I was on the right track.

I also decided to replace the master cylinder to be complete. I had flushed the fluid before so I had gotten pretty good at bleeding the system.

The new system work perfect for about 2 weeks. The squeaking started first then the pedal began to slowly retract when the truck was warm and it was hot outside.

The replacement slave cylinder was a Perfection Clutch brand and the master cylinder was from Ford.

Hoping I had gotten a bad master cylinder, I returned the first one and replaced it. The problem returned quicker than before.

I have flushed the system and used a good quality(high boiling point) fluid multiple times. I am at my wits end with this thing.

I am sorry for the long post. PLEASE HELP! Does anyone think it could be the actual clutch? If so or if not, why only after the truck is warm and particularly when it is warm outside.

Thanks so much

John

 

[JTCamp]

Any takers? Even guessing is great!

John

 

[PopRichie77]

Are you sure the pedal is free on it's mounting? Also does the rod that goes in the master cylinder swing freely? If the noise is under the dash, then the problem, probably is not the clutch.

 

[JTCamp]

Thanks for the reply.

I'm close to 100% positive the sound is originating from the master cylinder. I have used a hose to listen for the noise and isolate it.

The pedal, detached from the master, moves freely along with the pushrod.

I know that these system only retract based on the pressure created by the pressure plate diaphragm springs. I considered this as a possible reason for the slow pedal return. However, that doesn't account for the noise associated with the master.

Because it is such a light clutch, I'm leaning more towards your idea that is isn't a clutch problem but a problem outside of the clutch. In other words, the master is producing some resistance when warm that is causing the slow clutch pedal. Even under the circumstances, the clutch still engages fine and the truck is drivable.

What do you think? I have already returned and replaced the master cylinder assy. from Ford twice. I'm thinking that the assy., which is prefilled, may be on the shelf for a while and is perhaps "aged" in a way that creates the problem when warm.

My issue is that the Ford dealer won't return the money, they will only give me a new assy. so long as it is less than a year old. After having tried that twice, I'd like to give the aftermarket a try. I've called their customer relations and am hoping that they will refund the money. Then I can purchase an after market assy. and see if the problem goes away or stays. I just don't want to have to eat the $130 from Ford.

My ramblings,

John

 

[PopRichie77]

Two other things come to mind. Is air bleed hole in the reservoir cap blocked? You can test this by loosing the cap and just leave it setting on top. Check the tubing down to the slave cylinder and see if there is any place where it is pinched or flattened out, this would restrict flow.

 

[JTCamp]

Thanks Richie

The assy. from Ford includes everything from the pedal, except pushrod, down to the slave. The hose is new and not kinked; the reservoir is also new. I will check the cap though later today and let you know. Thanks for the ideas.

John

 

[JTCamp]

I was able to check the air bleed hole yesterday and it is clear. Fortunately the turn to cooler weather has had the effect of almost completely eliminating the sticky pedal. The noise is still there, but it is very faint.

I've decided to continue to watch it and wait for any major drive ability issues to surface before I start replacing parts. Also there is the possibility that the dealer will come through and refund the money which would allow me to purchase an aftermarket master cylinder.

Thanks for all the help

John