Control arms with ball joints....what brand/part number did you use? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Control arms with ball joints....what brand/part number did you use?

Zagnut

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Detroit, a third world country.
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Detroit, a third world country
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 4.0L Ed B Explorer
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haven't tested yet, despite having dual band radios.
After doing rear struts yesterday, I saw how rotted all the link/arm bushings were.

I don't have a way to press old out and new in, so considering new parts, front and rear.
Front upper and lower with ball joints, rear lower and upper lateral.

Or would it be cheaper to buy a press of somekind and just do the "pressing" myself? I'm capable of the work, I just don't have the equipment.

Thanks, cheers and beers!
 



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I've noticed the marginal bushings on my beast as well. However, I have not noticed that they are a problem. After replacing all 4 struts, she is rock solid with no other weird movements or sounds. Based on my experience I'd recommend replacing the front struts first.
 






Part source up here, pep boys or auto zone down there will lend you a ball joint press that can be used to press them out. Its not too big of a job. Lots of videos on youtube.
 






Just did front ball joints, end links, and struts this weekend. Rented ball joint press and separators from autozone. For me, separating the knuckle from the ball joint was the worst!
 






I've noticed the marginal bushings on my beast as well. However, I have not noticed that they are a problem. After replacing all 4 struts, she is rock solid with no other weird movements or sounds. Based on my experience I'd recommend replacing the front struts first.
I have to agree...after replacing the rear struts, the front now seem to be done. I still have the odd "skipping to the side" effect, but much less noticeable, and more of complete sideways effect where the truck wants to "skip" to the right. It's subtle, but noticeable. Nothing like the rear kicking out like it was.

Part source up here, pep boys or auto zone down there will lend you a ball joint press that can be used to press them out. Its not too big of a job. Lots of videos on youtube.

Just did front ball joints, end links, and struts this weekend. Rented ball joint press and separators from autozone. For me, separating the knuckle from the ball joint was the worst!

Thanks guys. I didn't know AZ had ball joint presses for loan. After all the tools I've loaned from them, I never knew this. Yeah, knuckle separation is a total beeeyotch. Been there.

Wish they had welding equipment for loan....need to replace a cat.
 






I went with all moon from Rock auto for the front end. Upper control arms, lower ball joints, Tie rod ends and sway links. Rides and steers like new . About 3k so far without issue.
 






BTW, had to cut off the end links because there was so much hardened grime on them they wouldn't hammer out from the control arm.
 






On this suspension, the front lower ball joints have a much bigger job to do than the uppers. I used Moog proglem solvers for the lowers; Mevotech for the uppers. I wound up having to replace one of the upper control arms (forget why), the unit from Autozone (could not wait for RockAuto) was fine.

I used Mevotech inner tie rod ends and Moog outer tie rod ends, and was pleased with both choices. I like the Moog problem solver sway bar links, and the Monroe OE Spectrum struts. I'd recommend the quickstruts if you can afford them, but was able to re-use my old springs on mine to save a buck (but it was a hassle!). Front end is tight, especially after the new wheel bearings (which each failed w/in 500 miles of one another, after 195k miles!).
 






I used... Mevotech for the uppers. I wound up having to replace one of the upper control arms (forget why)...
I have an '07 XLT and just replaced (last night) one of my upper control arms with a Mevotech (am heading out now to replace the other one). I tightened the nut on the bottom of the ball joint (beneath the spindle arm) all the way to the top yet, if I position the control arm just right, there is still a small gap between the ball joint and the spindle. Shouldn't this be tight (i.e., no gap)?
 






Do you mean between the bottom of the joint and the steering knuckle? I don't think it can be flush because of the angle the control arm comes down
 












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