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Coolant Filter

trucku

Explorer Addict
Joined
January 25, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Queens, New York and living in Budd Lake, NJ now.
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Explorer XLS 4.0 4x4
After searching around for a good coolant filter, I finally found one. I have looked at the in line radiator hose filters, but they only catch big debris and scaling.

This filter will be connected to my heating lines. The input line will be connected with a Tee just before the heater hose valve. The return will be fed back to water pump. I will change the fluid before the install.
So far I have quite a few installs pending on my truck, but will post pics as I go along.
The filter mount can be found on Ebay. Search under "filter mount,filter head".
The thread is a 11/16-16
The following filters with coolant conditioner will fit this mount
Baldwin BW5137
Wix 24071
Napa Gold 4071
 

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Write a reveiw up when you get done.

That's another perk of being an Elite member:thumbsup:
 






Yes I definitely,I will write a review and document the install for posting.
 






I didnt even know there were such things as a coolant filters. Pretty cool. What are the benifits?
 






Here from http://www.napafilters.com/products/filterfacts/coolantfilters.asp

General Filter Facts - Coolant Filters
Keeping the coolant contaminant-free is critical to maintaining proper diesel engine temperature. NAPA Filters has applied years of research and development in filter media technology to create the industry's highest performing coolant filters. Use our Filter Look-up feature or consult your NAPA Filters Distributor, to find the best NAPA Filters filter for your needs.
What the Coolant Filter Does...
Coolant filters are used on most types of diesel engines. These filters help to maintain proper engine heat transfer by filtering solid contaminants from the coolant and by minimizing corrosion and deposits in the cooling system.

Properly installed and maintained, coolant filters help to provide:
A clean, well-functioning engine cooling system.
Proper engine heat dissipation.
Engine efficiency through improved heat conductivity.
Method to introduce necessary Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCA's) when required.

Coolant filters mechanically filter the coolant through a fine media, removing impurities such as sand and rust particles suspended in the cooling system. The coolant filter also conditions the coolant by softening the water to minimize scale deposits, maintains a neutral to slightly alkaline condition in the coolant, and prevents rust.

Corrosion Inhibitors
In some applications, a corrosion inhibitor (SCA) is placed in the coolant filter. This inhibitor dissolves into the coolant, forming a protective film on all metal surfaces in the cooling system. The inhibitor is a combination of chemical compounds blended to provide corrosion and cavitation erosion protection, pH control and water softening.


These filter are being used on gas engines too.


I am also a member of the BITOG site and they are filter and Oil gurus.
I just wanted to post it ahead of time in case someone was thinking of a coolant filter setup.
This is a great site and I want to share what I have learned from them.

I will also have power steering filter (spin on also).Once I get the ball rolling with my installs, pics and writeup for you guys/gals they will be posted accordingly.
I am still debating using a motor Guard TP bypass filter setup for my tranny or using a Hydraulic Donaldson filter setup rated at 3um that I would probably never have to change.I have a Frantz TP Bypass setup lined up to be installed for my oil. I will keep my dual remote Perma Cool setup and run 2 Wix 51515 on it. My oil capacity should be just over 8 quarts with the dual remote and bypass filter. My electric fan install and Spal controller is also on the list. And I think finally is my Sunpro triple mechanical guages for my oil temp, pressure and electrical voltage. My scanguage will keep track of my coolant temp. The guages are installed and wired to the dimmer. the voltage gauge is only on working as i have not setup my bypass setup, that will allow for my pressure and temp readings. I have pics of the install and prep of my console for my gauges.
The warm weather and non busy weekends are the only time I can work on the truck. I get yelled at by the wife all the time about spending too much time messing with truck..LOL

I want to get all this done before my drive up to Niagra Falls this summer. I want a very road worthy machine for lots of road trips.
 






Did you ever get this done and how did it work out?

Where did you mount the filter mount?

Why did you put it in the heater lines, and not the rad hoses? The heater lines will have a smaller coolant flowrate relative to the rate going thru the rad hoses. This means a lot of the crap won't ever get to the filter since it's taking the path of least resistance, which is the rad hoses.

How much pressure drop are you expecting across the element when clean and when dirty? Is the pump good for that? The stock coolant pumps on car engines are pretty cheezy. At idle, when coolant flowrate is low, if the filter is partially clogged, I'd expect to get an overheating situation. If the filter is really stopped up, the pump won't make enough pressure to get enough flow through the filter, at any rpm.

Thanks!
Pete
 






Did you ever get this done and how did it work out?

Where did you mount the filter mount?

Why did you put it in the heater lines, and not the rad hoses? The heater lines will have a smaller coolant flowrate relative to the rate going thru the rad hoses. This means a lot of the crap won't ever get to the filter since it's taking the path of least resistance, which is the rad hoses.

How much pressure drop are you expecting across the element when clean and when dirty? Is the pump good for that? The stock coolant pumps on car engines are pretty cheezy. At idle, when coolant flowrate is low, if the filter is partially clogged, I'd expect to get an overheating situation. If the filter is really stopped up, the pump won't make enough pressure to get enough flow through the filter, at any rpm.

Thanks!
Pete

Actually I did not install it. I have been sidetracked from weekend projects on my rig. I have a few things that still have to be done.

But as for installation. It will work just as well in either the radiator hose or the heater line. It will work best in my opinion on heater hose, becuase the heater hose is fed directly from the water pump and the radiator feed would have to be after the thermoastat. So you will have impeded flow when thermostat is closed.

heater connections have been done quite a few times and is very successful. The flow speed should be faster on a smaller diameter line.
Quite a few guys have also used bypass filters with TP element and they flowed fine. I don't remember the specs to flow a Frantz TP element. This spin on is designed for coolant so it should flow easily. It is rated at 30 microns so it will take a lot to clog it. It will catch all the scaling and debris normally suspended in the coolant.

You will never get a overheat situation, because this filter is in parallel to the system. Even if the pump was insufficient at idle, you would still be cleaning the coolant when driving at higher rpm.. I don't have a differential fluid gauge, or I would definitely love to see the pressure drop between the two sides.

I have been looking for some differential gauges for my trans and oil filters also.

In the 02 the heater valve is set close to the water pump. All i planned to do was flip the hose and that way the valve would be moved closer to the heater core. I would then tee it off right at the water pump and feed the filter. I was contemplating putting the return on a tee on the return side of the heater core or right into the reservoir.

Ok now I need to install this..lol.

Hope I answered your questions. sorry if it sounds like gibberish, my wife and daughter keep distracting me..lol
 












Has anyone actually installed a coolant filter?

I am very interested in the install.
 






I have my frantz bypass installed. I feed it back into my filler cap.
I had planed to move my perma cool setup to the power steering when i install my hydraulic filter 2um to my tranny.

Weekend jobs have kept me busy on the weekends... I can never risk truck downtime.

wanna see some installs check out BITOG. Gary is one of the gurus their who have done tons of isntalls. He is a great guy oozing with knowledge.
 






It will work just as well in either the radiator hose or the heater line. It will work best in my opinion on heater hose, becuase the heater hose is fed directly from the water pump and the radiator feed would have to be after the thermoastat. So you will have impeded flow when thermostat is closed.

Right on. While the stat is closed, this is true - it will catch the crud in the block and the htr core, but not in the radiator.

The flow speed should be faster on a smaller diameter line.

True if the flowrate is the same. More flow in a smaller ID = higher speed than a larger ID. But that's not the situation when the stat opens fully. The flow takes the path of least resistance. The rad and htr core are in parallel with each other (once the stat opens) so the pressure drop across both is equal, as seen at the pump discharge. The flow balances out between the two depending on the nature of the drop across the rad, its hoses, and the htr core and its hoses. You don't know the flow split between the core and the rad a priori. One of these days I'm going to estimate it though. Yeah I'm a nerd :thumbsup:

Quite a few guys have also used bypass filters with TP element and they flowed fine.
What is a TP element? What is the Frantz element? I didn't find anything with a Google search. Probably my bad.

You will never get a overheat situation, because this filter is in parallel to the system.
I'm probably misunderstanding you, but if the filter is in parallel with the hoses, the filter won't do jack. The flow will bypass it completely except for a trickle.

I don't have a differential fluid gauge, or I would definitely love to see the pressure drop between the two sides.

I have been looking for some differential gauges for my trans and oil filters also.
I do this fluid flow thing for a living - I got some sources for dP gauges/indicators - I'll dig some up and spring them on you.

In the 02 the heater valve is set close to the water pump. All i planned to do was flip the hose and that way the valve would be moved closer to the heater core. I would then tee it off right at the water pump and feed the filter. I was contemplating putting the return on a tee on the return side of the heater core or right into the reservoir.
My '91 does not have a control valve. The htr runs all the time; air temp is controlled by modulating a damper in the plenum to change the flow of cool air mixed with the hot air, that plus shutting off the flow of hot air.

Here is my issue. I just put new heads on my '91. My block is FULL of rust and crap from sitting for a year (long story). Plus I knocked a bunch of crap down into the cooling passages in the block while cleanng the block in prep for the new head gaskets. So I have a ton o bad stuff floating around in the cooling system now. I flushed the block and htr core with a hose for about 30 min and also had the rad rodded out. But there is still a ton o nasty stuff in there. So I saw the Gano filter on a Jaguar site and the Tefba filter on a Mustang site. They look real good. But what I finally decided to do was get some 40-mesh brass screen and make a temporary cone strainer out of it and put one in the upper rad hose and one in the heater supply line. We'll see what happens. Startup is tomorrow.

Hope I answered your questions. sorry if it sounds like gibberish, my wife and daughter keep distracting me..lol
No sweat bro, I got that same exact problem, every time I want to turn a wrench, it's the ole lady with rag rag rag :D

Thanks! Pete
 






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