Coolant reservoir is emptying slowly - 2015

[Larryholmes]

I suspect your mechanic is right about the water pump. Mine started losing coolant, but nothing in the oil. I noticed water/coolant on the alternator that had leaked from the weep hole. A simple pressure test will settle that for you. It's not a bad idea to change the timing chain and guides if your over 100K or there is any noticeable wear, the labor will be minimal since it all has to come off anyway. Another thing to do is the spark plugs, since the intake needs to come off or again, there's really not any extra labor to change them if there any where near needing replacement. The good news is, the 3.5/3.7 NA is pretty solid outside of the water pump, so your likely in good shape once this gets sorted out!

I had a very slow leak for a very long time. Filled the reservoir and check a month later it was dry. When I was having the AC clutch replaced the garage called and said I needed a radiator. There was a crack in the right side about three inches long and it was so fine the only reason it could be seen was because the coolant ran down from the bottom of the crack about an inch and left a residue mark. Look closely, these things are sometimes imperceptible because the small amount dries so quickly in the heat and air movement.

 

[JB95JD]

Also not certain it is the water pump. I hope not.

Mechanic told me it was the waterpump. They said the timing chain needed to be replaced when you change the water pump. Is that correct?

Its one of those repairs, since you have to teardown that much of the engine to get there you might as well. But technically it is said the other way around. IF you are going in to REPLACE the Timing chain because it is 120kmi or whatever, then you change the water pump because you are already in the area (you have to remove the water pump to get to the timing chain). But say you just changed your timing chain a year or two ago and your water pump fails, then just repair your water pump.

 

[merlin0152]

Cannot see a leak anywhere. Oil looks ok. In about 1 1/2 weeks coolant reservoir empty. Any ideas?

I’ve got a 2016. Similar issue with the coolant level dropping with no leaks evident on the ground. Water pumps are built into the engine and driven by the timing chain. If the pump fails (somewhat common from what I gather) it is about a $3k job since the front cover and chain all have to come out. Labor intensive. Luckily mine was barely still within the extended warranty and I got the pump & labor done for $100 deductible plus oil change. Look into the water pump. Chain doesn't have to be replaced if it is still in good condition. If I was doing the job myself I would have replaced the chain while in there but, as I said it was on warranty so they aren't going to pay to replace a good chain.

 

[Texas2022]

Welcome to the Forum Robert.
If you have the 2010 that is shown in your profile, this issue may not apply to you if you have an external water pump.

Peter

I do have a 2010 f150, but this is my wife's 2015 ford explorer 3.5. It does have the internal water pump. Unfortunately, I do not have the money right now to have this done. I am going to keep an eye on the reservoir level and check the oil frequently until I can do this.

 

[Wildings]

Also not certain it is the water pump. I hope not.

None showing up that I can see.

Just want to say I had a similar mystery coolant leak. While idling in parking lot temp shot up and steam blowing out from hood. In less than 30 seconds, evidently, the block cracked. Leak was either plastic thermostat housing or manifold area where there is more plastic. Bottom line, $11,000 new Jasper crate engine and install.
If your temp warning light appears, shut down until block is cold.
Dont mess with this issue. Failure happens really quickly. Good luck.
Oh, the garage did a chemical test of some kind that evaluates antifreeze in the oil. Reacted so fast indicated cracked block rather than head gasket...so I was told.

 

[dejen3303]

Mechanic told me it was the waterpump. They said the timing chain needed to be replaced when you change the water pump. Is that correct?
It might not need it at this time but depending on the mileage and environment you should have him do it when he's in there. I am curious about the mileage on your truck and if you have ever changed the coolant. Mine is 4 years old and only has 30k on it but I'm doing a drain and refill on the cooling system this year. I also don't know what drives the water pump on this engine. Most pumps are belt driven. I need to learn that because I have the same engine.

 

[rmlmcollie]

Cannot see a leak anywhere. Oil looks ok. In about 1 1/2 weeks coolant reservoir empty. Any ideas?

I have an '08 4.6l Explorer. It kept slowly losing anti freeze, sometimes would not loose any! I wouldn't see any drips. I would smell hot anti freeze. My water pump was leaking, replaced and loosing anti freeze stopped.

 

[RonParise]

Also not certain it is the water pump. I hope not.

Mechanic told me it was the waterpump. They said the timing chain needed to be replaced when you change the water pump. Is that correct?

In my case the timing chain didnt need to be replaced. But it had to be removed to get the water pump out...so why not? I had the timing chain, guides, front crank seal and oil pump replaced because, ......well..... there they are

 

[BlfdBeaver]

Cannot see a leak anywhere. Oil looks ok. In about 1 1/2 weeks coolant reservoir empty. Any ideas?

Mine was the water pump on my 2014.

 

[rmlmcollie]

In my case the timing chain didnt need to be replaced. But it had to be removed to get the water pump out...so why not? I had the timing chain, guides, front crank seal and oil pump replaced because, ......well..... there they are

My mechanic just changed pump and hoses. Timing chain was fine. Didn't have the money to change parts that weren't broke.

 

[Steve Ribbe]

Had this at 104k. $3500. 2013 explorer. Pulled engine, replaced pump chain and guides. Have to take the chain off to do the water pump. So it was just $100 or so extra for chain and guides. Started puffing steam out hood. Confirmed weep hole draining. Limped it home and then towed to dealer. Luckily no coolant in oil.

 

[jade97]

Just to note, adding the chain and tensioners only cost me an additional $170 in parts (2016 Sport).

In reference to experiencing the WP Failure (2011 XLT), I checked the oil and coolant on Sunday of the week it failed and all was normal. That Tuesday, I got the call from the wife that the car had no power, sounded 'weird', oil temp light came on, and it went into limp mode....

 

[Texas2022]

I had a very slow leak for a very long time. Filled the reservoir and check a month later it was dry. When I was having the AC clutch replaced the garage called and said I needed a radiator. There was a crack in the right side about three inches long and it was so fine the only reason it could be seen was because the coolant ran down from the bottom of the crack about an inch and left a residue mark. Look closely, these things are sometimes imperceptible because the small amount dries so quickly in the heat and air movement.

We are going have to wait at least a couple of months before we can have this job done. What do you think the chances of the coolant leaking into the oil is? The prices I am getting quoted are anywhere from 1800 to 4000.
I know it's a big job, but 3000-4000 seems high.

 

[Mbrooks420]

We are going have to wait at least a couple of months before we can have this job done. What do you think the chances of the coolant leaking into the oil is? The prices I am getting quoted are anywhere from 1800 to 4000.
I know it's a big job, but 3000-4000 seems high.

Don’t drive it. You’re asking to replace the entire motor if you do. If you think 3-4000 is expensive, price the whole motor.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

for those motors coolant+oil is a known issue, and when there is coolant contamination, kiss the motor goodbye. coolant has nowhere near the lubricating capability of oil, so it would kill bearings etc.have a backup vehicle? if its a couple months maybe get a beater for the time being. i know its expensive, but its better than a new motor

 

[BKennedy]

Its your car, but no way would I drive it. I wouldn't even drive it to the shop, I would have it towed. If coolant starts leaking into the oil the engine is done. As much coolant as you say is disappearing you have all the warnings you are going to get.

 

[94Eddie]

We are going have to wait at least a couple of months before we can have this job done. What do you think the chances of the coolant leaking into the oil is? The prices I am getting quoted are anywhere from 1800 to 4000.
I know it's a big job, but 3000-4000 seems high.

This is a $1,500-$2,000 job. Especially if the chains and guides aren't being replaced. If you drive it and the engine is ruined the bill will jump to $8k-$10k. How long would it take to fund this massive of a repair? At this price would you even go ahead with the repair? You might drive it for two months and be fine but you are taking one hell of a risk that will cost you dearly if things go bad. Water pumps in these engines can fail so fast that you won't even have the opportunity to save the engine if all the coolant is dumped into the crank case in a matter of seconds. By the time the gauges and/or warning lights let you know there is a problem the engine will be toast. Only you can weight the risk of driving it any further.

 

[peterk9]

If indeed it is the water pump, park it immediately until you can have it repaired. It is the labour that is the majority of the expense.

Water Pump for 2015 Ford Explorer | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com

Engine Water Pump Assembly DG1Z-8501-D | TascaParts.com

DG1Z-8501-D - Engine Water Pump Assembly

www.tascaparts.com

Peter

 

[Fishergirl3148]

I suspect your mechanic is right about the water pump. Mine started losing coolant, but nothing in the oil. I noticed water/coolant on the alternator that had leaked from the weep hole. A simple pressure test will settle that for you. It's not a bad idea to change the timing chain and guides if your over 100K or there is any noticeable wear, the labor will be minimal since it all has to come off anyway. Another thing to do is the spark plugs, since the intake needs to come off or again, there's really not any extra labor to change them if there any where near needing replacement. The good news is, the 3.5/3.7 NA is pretty solid outside of the water pump, so your likely in good shape once this gets sorted out!

I am currently having this problem with my 2014 and actually found there is a line for the rear heater core that is leaking. It's just behind the rear driver side tire.

 

[peterk9]

I am currently having this problem with my 2014 and actually found there is a line for the rear heater core that is leaking. It's just behind the rear driver side tire.

I'm not sure if that particular issue has been posted about. There are, however, many posts about the A/C line leaking in that area.

Peter