Couldn't do RA Bushings

[pugsy]

Well...I was all ready to go today to replace the radius arm busings on my '92 and couldn't get it done. :thumbdwn:
I drilled out the 2 rivets on the passenger side, this was pretty easy, but couldn't get to the two on the drivers side (e-brake cable in the way and wheel well shroud in the way). BUT, that was the least of my problems. I couldn't get any of the bolts off, the 4 that are pointing towards the ground, or the big 28mm nut on the end of the radius arms. I don't have an air compressor or impact wrench and couldn't muscle them off by hand. They're all rusted out.
So, I'm going to call a shop tomorrow and see what they'll charge to get the last 2 rivets out and unbolt everything for me. I have all the parts and 2 more bolts ready to go.
Anyhow thought I'd warn anyone trying to do this job without air tools....DON'T EVEN TRY!!

 

[Minivek]

It's a lot of work, but sure it can be done without air-tools, I did mine in the driveway no probs. You just need the right tools (short breaker bar, 2-3 foot breaker bar, large crescent wrench, a lot of PB blaster, 2 jackstands and correct sized sockets, all in 1/2 size) PB blast the bejeepers outta all the nuts for a couple of days, don't forget to reach the threads on top of those vertical bolts under the radius arm bracket where it attaches to the frame. To get the big radius arm nuts off, I soaked them in PB blaster a while, the put a good quality big crescent wrench on it at an angle, layed on the ground and slowly started pushing on the crescent wrench with my foot, I you do it correctly it will come off, just be carefull not the hurt your leg while you do this. The truck won't move as it stays on the ground for this part. the same things for those rivets on the drivers side, don't be afraid to pry that plastic fender a bit, it won't break and get in there with the drill and a cobalt bit, then get the rest of the rivet with a 4" angle grinder and grinding disk, work at it with confidence, you need to push it in there, be carefull not to remove material from your radius arm bracket and that's it.

Patience is the key.

 

[Minivek]

Just so you know, the first side I did took almost two days, I was too carefull, the second side was replaced in under and hour, experience pays off.

 

[pugsy]

What's PB Blaster? Same kind of thing as WD 40?
Also...what's a breaker bar?

 

[Fordy nine]

PB blaster has unique penetrating abilities, just buy a can and read it, it tells why and it does work better than WD or Deep Creep, and Deep Creep is pretty good stuff.

I really didnt have to deal with rusted nuts or rivits when i changed my bushings and brackets, and i wrote some tips that came from my experience from changing them, its a tuff go but with persistance its definatly doable.

And worth the new car feel 100%. Not to mention safety issues. And believe me when I say I was green as all heck but i just kept reading all the posts on changing them before I started and it happened.

You know I just want to add another couple of cents to my 2 already, and say that sometimes working with a grinder, or drilling upside down, all the nasty work stuff that has to be done, always seems a little less intimidating when you wear ear and eye protection, even gloves and a dust mask, the noise aint so overwheming and you can get right in the dirt and go for it knowing your well protected. I always wear this stuff and then its not so bad.

 

[Minivek]

Definetly right about protection gear, you don't have to go overboard, but the glasses are a must and wear thick clothing so the sparks don't cinge your skin and so your more comfortable lying on the ground, once you get to that certain angle where grinding get tough without getting showered by sparks, turn the gard on the grinder so that the sparks roll in another direction. But don't sweat it, just take your time, I read and reread and mentally did the work for weeks before tackling the job, and it turns out, perseverance, safety and going at it methodotically gets you through the job easily, don't be scared to change your attack angle with the drill or grinder, make sure you hit the rivets and not other stuff, remember check twice cut once cuz with those weird angles give the grinder a short burst to see what you would be grinding down, sometimes you'll be completely off the mark without knowing it, but since you checked first all you damage is the paint on the brackets. Take your time and you'll do fine,

BTW, a breaker bar is a long drop forged handle with a 180° swivel on the end, you just have to put the socket you need on the end, they are built to handle a lot of torque and abuse, and don't break easily.

 

[LXNavajo_94]

I also did my radius arm bushings in the drive way no air tools either but the biggest thing is to take your time. It took me about 3 maybe 4 hours to do the drivers side seeing as it was the hardest to get a drill on. I went with the 4" angle grinder. finally after wrestling with the e-brake cable and inner fender plastic. I had the passengers side done in about an hour and a half. I did use liberal amounts of PB Blaster. That stuff is worth its weight in gold when it comes to rusted bolts.

 

[pugsy]

Ya...I suppose you guys are right. I'm fine with the rivits and I'm sure with some thinking and maybe a helping hand, I'd be able to get the drivers sides out. But my biggest hurdle right now is not being able to get the 4 vertical bolts off (they don't have a nut on the other side that I'm missing do they?). I can't even get a socket on one of them. Then even if I manage to get the brackets loose from the frame, I can't get the RA nuts off. I used a ratchet with a socket and pushed as hard as I could and even used a hammer to bash the handle of the ratchet and didn't even budge.
BTW...is PB Blaster available in Canada? Where can you get this stuff.
I need to replace the front shocks too and those nuts on the lower mount look even worse then the others.

 

[LXNavajo_94]

Nope the nut on those bolts is welded on the frame. As far as getting the big nuts off of the radius arms its best to get a breaker bar preferably the longest one you can find 12 inch would be a good start. A breaker bar looks like a ratchet wrench with out the ratchet end and the right socket in a 6 point. I cant remember what size right now but I'm sure some one on here will know and probably post the answer as far as PB Blaster being available in Canada I'm not sure but any really good penetrating oil should work just spray it on there liberally once or twice a day 2 or 3 days before you tackle it again

 

[Jason94sport]

Can it be done with regular tools? Sure, but it's just nor worth my time or effort. I learned this with the many things I have tried doing with hand tools.
Invest in a small air compressor & some 1/2" air tools. It make life much easier.
I'll never touch any car/truck again unless I have access to air.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I have air tools, often work without them unless I am doing quick tear down. I replaced RA busings on a 95 F150, drilling the rivets is for the birds! I ground the heads off the rivets, punched them through. An angle grinder with a cut off wheel and grinding wheel will be very helpful.

I'd venture to guess you could go buy the proper tools and do the job on your own - end up spending less $$ than paying a shop to do it. And, when your done, you'll have tools to do your next gob.

A grinder and wheels, a punch, chisel, 1/2 breaker bar, sockets should do it.

 

[Minivek]

they sell PB blaster at your local canadian tire.

 

[ActionJackson]

hehe I guess im spoiled. A lift, a torch, and air hammer and all the rest of the tools at my disposal. drilling and grinding HA the blue wrench will take them off in a few seconds. I dont do anything in the driveway anymore. I know not everyone has access to all this stuff. but Im sure if you networked a lil bit you could find someone who does and is willing to help.

 

[Fordy nine]

Those nuts on the horizontal part of the RA bracket are just 2 tower nuts that have a common base- theyre stuck together- so no wrench or socket is needed to hold the top... just a wratchet on the bolts from the bottom and theyll come off...

Also to get my 28MM nuts off I just put a breaker bar on and then a piece of fencepost bar over that and just stepped on it on one side and pulled up on it on the other side- loosened right up and they wouldnt budge with just a short 1/2 wratchet- its all about leverage.

Oh, if you do decide to continue the job, youll also find that the other 4 bolts that screw up into the frame rails have a double tower nut on them, so you can just wrachet them off...

When you put them back on, try to get them in before you tighten up the G8's where the rivets were, cause its a tight fit with the new bushings in the way... and the cat and crap on the other side is gonna fight you every step of the way too, so get everything in loosely and then tighten, took me hours going back and forth to tighten everything up..

Also, when putting the new bracket in (or your old one) use the BOTTOM side bolt hole ( notice the word SIDE< as in the holes where the rivits were) first because that acts as a pivot point where then you can just jack the bracket up and into place rather than up and foward and back to get the top ones in

AND one more thing, unless your a stickler for originality push the new G8's from the inside of the rail out, much easier than trying to thread the nuts on in the limited space your working with on the inside of the frame rails... Good luck

 

[Mud Bug 94]

to get the big ass nuts off the R/A, i put a rachet on it, grabbed the frame and kicked the hell out of it...came right off no sprays needed.

 

[Maniak]

To pull off rusted RA nuts I put on a breaker bar and used the floor jack to push up on it (not a trolly jack)..

I liked this method becuase you don't have to push hard and becuase your not under the truck with the wrench in case it comes loose and goes flying.

~Mark

 

[gsmaclean]

To pull off rusted RA nuts I put on a breaker bar and used the floor jack to push up on it (not a trolly jack)..

I liked this method becuase you don't have to push hard and becuase your not under the truck with the wrench in case it comes loose and goes flying.

~Mark

I've used that same method to break loose tight brake caliper bolts when in a tight wheel well space and not able to fit a breaker bar in place. Works great, avoids skinned knuckles and loud profanities.

 

[Calvynandhobbs]

I haven't changed my RA bushing on my X yet, but when I changed mine out and put the 6" lift on my Bronco I didn't have any air tools. I have a 48" breaker bar and then I had a 6 foot piece of steel conduit. I slid the conduit over the breaker bar and had to use very little force standing 8 feet from the side of the Bronco. I'll probably use the same methods when I lift my Explorer. A couple of ratchet straps strategically placed to put force on things to make them line up better works very well also when putting everything back together.

Roger

 

[pugsy]

Well, I hate to say it guys, but I ended up going to a shop today to get it done. I had the day off from work and didn't want to wrestle with it again. I don't feel so bad though cause the garage couldn't even get them off with their air tools. They had to heat the RA nuts and the vertical bolts to get them off. Nonetheless, they charged me only 1.5 hrs. of labour so it only cost me around $120 (cdn.) for the job. Worth it to save a bunch of agrivation!!
Much quieter ride now and no more clunking over pot holes!!

 

[DeRocha]

Well, I hate to say it guys, but I ended up going to a shop today to get it done. I had the day off from work and didn't want to wrestle with it again. I don't feel so bad though cause the garage couldn't even get them off with their air tools. They had to heat the RA nuts and the vertical bolts to get them off. Nonetheless, they charged me only 1.5 hrs. of labour so it only cost me around $120 (cdn.) for the job. Worth it to save a bunch of agrivation!!
Much quieter ride now and no more clunking over pot holes!!

The tool below is what I used to remove the vertical bolts.. It is a vice grip and locks onto the bolt with lots of force (so you don't round it off). You then slip a 3 foot length of pipe over the handle and go to town.. btw the Radius Arm nuts are installed with RED permanent Loctite. You will only get the nut off if you apply Tons of force or heat it up to 500F which burns it off... When I did my Radius arm bushings the nut didn't move when I used my 1000ft/lb impact gun.. I hit each nut for 2-3 minutes with a propane torch and they spun right off...