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crank no start and clunk

That wire is the knock sensor wire. Thats what that plug goes to.

Now you say the vehicle starts, revs a bit then dies? unplug the mass airflow sensor and see if it will run better. I have had the maf sensor throw my idle of so bad it would stall. also try cranking and giving it a little throttle and see if you can get it to idle
 



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That wire is the knock sensor wire. Thats what that plug goes to.

Now you say the vehicle starts, revs a bit then dies? unplug the mass airflow sensor and see if it will run better. I have had the maf sensor throw my idle of so bad it would stall. also try cranking and giving it a little throttle and see if you can get it to idle
can that knock censor keep my truck from working and stalling out of no where? well ive tried to give it some gas and it seems to shut off as soon as i do. ill try the MAF in the am. after i buy a part that i broke its a hard plastic hose that goes from the air intake tube to, under the manifold and back to the top of the engine to what i believe is the idle air controller.
man this truck is hell of a learning experience
 






Whatever that wire is it seems quite tight. Where is it headed?
do you know what that hard plastic tube that connects from the ainr intake to a sensor at the top of the engine is ??
 






I think you need to check fuel pressure
Sounds
Like a weak fuel
Pump
 






do you know what that hard plastic tube that connects from the ainr intake to a sensor at the top of the engine is ??
That hard plastic hose connects to the IAC (idle air controller). its not a sensor, its an electronic valve that opens or closes to maintain the idle of the engine. if that controller's electrical connector is left unplugged it can also lead to a short start up stumble and shutdown. There is a post on the forum on how to adjust your throttle to idle (poorly, but idle) when that sensor fails. it is still available as a replacement part.
 






I think you need to check fuel pressure
Sounds
Like a weak fuel
Pump
I ended up getting a replacement for the fuel pump and it turned on like it never had before. Scared me a bit. Ran it a while and the fuel filter started leaking. That was a bad clip inside the line. Fixed that but now the theft light keeps blinking and not letting it start. It’s the right key everything on right no codes. Can’t be the ignition can it ? But I don’t know I’m stuck and frustrated once more.
 






That hard plastic hose connects to the IAC (idle air controller). its not a sensor, its an electronic valve that opens or closes to maintain the idle of the engine. if that controller's electrical connector is left unplugged it can also lead to a short start up stumble and shutdown. There is a post on the forum on how to adjust your throttle to idle (poorly, but idle) when that sensor fails. it is still available as a replacement part.
Thanks I figured it out with a bit of heater hose but now the theft keeps blinking. I don’t know what to do
 






The theft light has a rapid flash when you turn the key to start?

If yes then allow it to flash for 90 seconds and it will then start to flash a code. You have to count the number of flashes and that is your pats trouble code

Usually the code is a problem with the antennae / halo

Do you have another key?
 






The theft light has a rapid flash when you turn the key to start?

If yes then allow it to flash for 90 seconds and it will then start to flash a code. You have to count the number of flashes and that is your pats trouble code

Usually the code is a problem with the antennae / halo

Do you have another key?
It flashes 1 and then 6 o don’t have another key unfortunately
 






Code 16 is a pats module to PCM communication fault according to other ford forums (f150, focus, mustang etc.)

If you have access to a scan tool you can look for these codes:
1750767004176.png
 






See other thread
You need a halo or have a key issue

Whenever I get the 1-6 code a new / known good halo usually fixes it
Sometimes they are visibly broken sometimes it seems they just wear out

I never saw this issue in 20 years and then all of a sudden in the last year I have replaced about 4 halos
Solar flares!!!
 






i figuered it out!!! the same person who stole ,y battery also took a 30 fuse that goes to the pcm also trired to cut my fuel line
 






Call the authorities? Good ol fashioned beat down? That is the lowest of the lows to mess with a man’s vehicle is to mess with their livelihood

Cut fuel line very difficult repair
Sugar in gas tank can cost thousands to fix which brings it up to a felony
 






Call the authorities? Good ol fashioned beat down? That is the lowest of the lows to mess with a man’s vehicle is to mess with their livelihood

Cut fuel line very difficult repair
Sugar in gas tank can cost thousands to fix which brings it up to a felony
Yeah but without proof it’s just me being paranoid. It seems like they tried but couldn’t get to cut because the line just looks smashed to tight it wasn’t letting the fuel thru. The fuse was the main pcm relay mega fuse .
And I don’t have the tools to replace that line
 






Hopefully you have comprehensive coverage on the vehicle. May be able to get some cash from the insurance company to cover the cost of parts and tools
 






i figuered it out!!! the same person who stole ,y battery also took a 30 fuse that goes to the pcm also trired to cut my fuel line
Wow, all of the sudden you added this about the theft?
I went thru your whole thread and this is the first mention of someone stealing your battery and fuse and cutting the line?
Unless I missed it?
That would have been helpful to know from the beginning of the thread.
A fuel line disconnect tool is not the expensive, if that is the tool you say you don't have.
Replacing the line can be tricky but can be done.
You said that you replaced the fuel pump, right? And a leak at the filter, I guess you have a disconnect tool already?
 






lol this happens all the time. Pages of diagnostic posts before we find out that something else significant was going on 😂

Water under the bridge

It’s a pain in the ass to replace the line, but the higher you can get the truck off the ground (SAFELY) the easier it is

I have to do this soon on my trucks to replace the front to back brake line in the frame rail….
 






lol this happens all the time. Pages of diagnostic posts before we find out that something else significant was going on 😂

Water under the bridge

It’s a pain in the ass to replace the line, but the higher you can get the truck off the ground (SAFELY) the easier it is

I have to do this soon on my trucks to replace the front to back brake line in the frame rail….
I agree to the P.I.A. To replace.
Mine is seeping a little oil at the right side valve cover. No problem I said to myself, till I looked at what you have to do. Old vehicles what, a 30 min job to replace the valve cover gasket?
Not so with the engineering today! 👎Got to remove a lot just to see the valve cover!
Depending on the vehicle the front to rear brake line is not that hard, if you can flare, the bending is easy.
I think they should be stainless....from the factory.
And then you have all the damn sensors today, don't get me started on what I think of them!
 






The sohc valve cover gaskets are prong to leaks that is for sure… when they age the rubber gasket gets brittle

It’s a pita job but not that terrible it looks like a ton of stuff to move around but things come apart and go back together rather easily
Can do both sides in just a few hours working diligently
 



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