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Dash warning lights all coming on randomly

lucasred

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2008 Eddie Bauer
Hello all.
I've got a 2008 Explorer Eddie Bauer with 85k. The dash warning lights seem to come on at random times. Sometimes once in two weeks. Sometimes four times a day. Sometimes bright lights icon lit, sometimes not. Sometimes turn signals won't work during this situation. The radio also flutters during these instances. The situation generally lasts less than 30 seconds per occurrence. I researched through Google and found many reports of ignition switch problems causing similar issues, so I replaced my ignition switch. The problem did not happen again for a month. It's back.
I've read of issues like this on earlier explorers and have also read of resolutions from changing out the radio to replacing the accessory delay relay. I searched for location and price of a new accessory delay relay but could only find a multiple function relay. I can't seem to find the accessory delay relay so maybe there isn't one on a 2008 model.
Any thoughts or experience with this issue and it's resolution would be appreciatted
 



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Hello all.
I've got a 2008 Explorer Eddie Bauer with 85k. The dash warning lights seem to come on at random times. Sometimes once in two weeks. Sometimes four times a day. Sometimes bright lights icon lit, sometimes not. Sometimes turn signals won't work during this situation. The radio also flutters during these instances. The situation generally lasts less than 30 seconds per occurrence. I researched through Google and found many reports of ignition switch problems causing similar issues, so I replaced my ignition switch. The problem did not happen again for a month. It's back.
I've read of issues like this on earlier explorers and have also read of resolutions from changing out the radio to replacing the accessory delay relay. I searched for location and price of a new accessory delay relay but could only find a multiple function relay. I can't seem to find the accessory delay relay so maybe there isn't one on a 2008 model.
Any thoughts or experience with this issue and it's resolution would be appreciatted
You need to look for something that is common to all these lights, such as a ground or the signal that illuminates everything with the key on engine off. probably going to need the wiring schematic.
 






Same issue here

2008 XLT- Sometimes it is the tire pressure warning, sometimes E brake, sometimes the bright lights indicator, sometimes all 3 or more.
Interesting note: Dash turn signal indicators (green arrows) and pinger dont work while this occurs, but the actual turn signals are working.
 






I have the exact same problem. I've replaced the electrical ignition switch. No change.
I've replaced the radio, as it sometimes starts with the radio stopping and starting. No change.
I'd really like to hear a solution. This problem is very annoying and having no signals while driving in Chicago is dangerous.
This is on a 2008 Explorer Eddie Bauer.
 






I read another thread like this just a few minutes ago, AND I had the same problem with my '91 EX (yeah, I know. We're talking 3 generations ago). But the problem was a faulty alternator. For my '91, it only took 10 minutes and $85 to replace and all was fine.

Don't know if this will fix yours, but it's a thought.

Hope it helps.
 






Warning lights random alerts.

Shaker1: I already thought of that. I added a separate ground to the radio. No change.
I added a separate ground to the turn signals. No change.
If this were a common ground issue the other accessories should feed off one of the new grounds.
These added grounds did not even eliminate the accessory with the new ground from showing warning alerts.
Radio still losses display and function. Turn signals still stop functioning.
It's not a ground, unless it's a ground at the brain.
 






BeauBoy: That's a very good thought. I had not considered this possibility.
This may make sense as now the vehicle will sometimes (not often) not respond when the key is turned. Vehicle doesn't even click. Turn the key back and forth several times and suddenly it just starts. No starter drag. No slow start. No click.
It either starts or doesn't.
 






Best of luck. Keep us posted how it turns out.
 






BeauBoy: That's a very good thought. I had not considered this possibility.
This may make sense as now the vehicle will sometimes (not often) not respond when the key is turned. Vehicle doesn't even click. Turn the key back and forth several times and suddenly it just starts. No starter drag. No slow start. No click.
It either starts or doesn't.

Check your battery voltage, then start it up and check again.
Probably 12.8v and goes to 13.8 when started. If the alternator were not charging the battery you would either hear a solenoid click or it might crank slowly and the lights might even be dim with all the accessories operating. Though if a diode were bad in the alternator it might produce a fluctuation current affecting multiple systems.

"It either starts or doesn't' implies that a circuit has gone open intermittently.
i.e. park/neutral safety switch. I mention a ground only because they are often common to multiple circuits. Your starting problem may be associated with the dash lights, or not. How old is the battery? Most auto parts outlets can test your battery and alternator before you replace them.
 






It is the battery that make all these symptoms. Usually when alternator fail it will just stall or wont start the engine.
 






Fritz is right, if your alternator fails completely. But if it is spiking, which is more common than one might think, it could and does cause just the symptoms mentioned.
 






The battery is 1 1/2 years old.
My thought was a problem with the voltage regulator within the alternator.
As far as the starting problem, it seems unlikely the alternator would cause such a problem, as my understanding is the alternator isn't really in the initial starting sequence. The battery supplies power to the starter directly via the ignition switch.
Feel free to correct me if the regulator is somehow used within the starting circuit.
Every time I've checked the battery voltage when running I'm seeing 13.8 volts.
The dash light problems are very intermittent and will show every day for a week then not again for 6 weeks. I've never been able to stop the vehicle during the problem to check voltage. I need to connect a continuous voltmeter so that I can catch it on the fly. One of the first things I did was replace the electrical ignition switch. I am suspecting the new after market switch for the starting problem. I kept my original and will re-install to see if there's any difference with that problem. I'll post when I've got results.
Thanks all for the suggestions.
 






Im assuming that you have checked the battery voltage while you start the engine, it should be atleast 10v but 11v higher is better. Mine failed 16months and never had a hard start issue but it did this symptoms 4weeks after it finally gave up. I didnt took the replacement battery but switched to motorcraft. Nway Check the 4wabs module right beneath the battery for loose or dirty connector. It is worth a try.
 






Battery voltage

Yes. I've checked the battery startup voltage. Usually at 13.4 v before turning ignition. Then drops to 11.4 - 11.8 during firing. So far the car has not done the start failure during my tests. Of course that would be too easy.
I did replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch back to original after having installed an aftermarket unit a year ago. No change. Started right up the first time and ten minutes later nothing. Several off/on cycles with the key and Bam, it's on.
I have a friend with a know functional starter and will replace mine this Saturday. I've got my old one out and I see that it is coated with surface rust where the starter has been mounted against trans bell housing. It seems as though this could be a problem since this is where the starter gets ground. I'll clean up the bell housing and coat both housing and starter with a thin coat of dialectic grease before installing.
 






No Start

OK. I've replaced the electrical portion of the ignition switch - no change. Still hesitates to start and sometimes I have to turn the key multiple times to get the starter to engage.
I swapped the starter with a known functioning starter. Exact same symptoms.
I need a new battery for a skid steer I have so I'm going to replace the Explorer battery with new then use the Explorers old battery for the skid steer.
I still need to connect a voltmeter I can monitor at all times while driving.
Thanks.
Jim
 






Yeah. I know how the electrical system works, and I also know I had to replace an alternator to fix my problem. Mine is just a suggestion based on experience. Its your vehicle and, more importantly, your money.
 






Dash Lights

I haven't ruled out the alternator.
I need to connect a volt meter coming out of the alternator to watch while driving. I suspect you may be right about the alternator being the cause of my random dash light warnings but I think the starter problem is separate, as when it doesn't start it won't turn over at all not even slow. It doesn't click or anything.
It's as though the starter solenoid isn't being given the signal from the ignition switch. I need to fix the starting issue before I can get back to the light issue. The light issue has been going on for a year while the starter problem began about 2 months ago. I already had a ignition electrical switch and was able to use a buddies spare starter. He doesn't have a spare alternator, so I guess I'll need to pull it and take to autozone for testing.
I just don't want to buy one until I'm reasonably sure I need one.
Jim
 






Or you could stop by your local auto parts store and let them test it for free.
 






Alternator

That's the plan.
My wife flies to visit her sister this Friday.
It's her vehicle and I didn't want to put it out of commission while she needed it.
After I get back from the airport, I'm hoping to pull it and have Autozone test it.
 



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Just went thru something similar, it was the alternator randomly spiking out too much voltage. Changed out and all works perfect.
 






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