Delphi fuel pumps.

[98 MERC]

Have any of you delt with rock auto for warranty needs or customer service help ? I sent them a e mail a couple days ago and asked 2 simple questions.

1 where are the Delphi and Motorcraft pumps made ? China or Mexico ? He didin't even put the effort to even checking.He just said we are to big and have to many warehouses and cant tell you where they are made.........

2. I Asked him to verify the warranty for both pumps, as online everyone list the warranty's for a different time frame or not at all.He wouldn't do that either.He just said check product page........ Well i did that ass hole !!!!! all the parts websites list different time frames.


Dear god.I can only imagine what would happen to me if i needed a warranty exchange or had a issue.OH MAN OH MAN.His name was samual.Must have been a India help desk ??? I told him that he was very unhelpful and i wont be buying from his company.

 

[CDW6212R]

Unfortunately the warranties for parts usually don't come into play. Ford's are really short so nothing ever really fails before they expire. Basically those just protect you from serious defects that will turn up very quickly.

I had a pair of Raybestos Professional grade hubs go bad for my 95 Crown Vic, last Winter. One went bad in about four weeks, the other took three more to do the same thing. Amazon was great about sending me new ones, but it made me wonder about the brand.

You have to be careful in your brand choice, the trick is to learn which parts need the absolute best parts available(example the 302 cam synchronizer, buy Ford only). Some parts are critical to get the best, some it makes very little difference. You can save a bunch of money on the parts that it doesn't matter much, but do not skimp on the critical stuff.

RA helps a lot since they have better prices for what they do carry. They don't carry everything, you do need to shop around to find out what else is out there.

 

[98 MERC]

Unfortunately the warranties for parts usually don't come into play. Ford's are really short so nothing ever really fails before they expire. Basically those just protect you from serious defects that will turn up very quickly.

I had a pair of Raybestos Professional grade hubs go bad for my 95 Crown Vic, last Winter. One went bad in about four weeks, the other took three more to do the same thing. Amazon was great about sending me new ones, but it made me wonder about the brand.

You have to be careful in your brand choice, the trick is to learn which parts need the absolute best parts available(example the 302 cam synchronizer, buy Ford only). Some parts are critical to get the best, some it makes very little difference. You can save a bunch of money on the parts that it doesn't matter much, but do not skimp on the critical stuff.

RA helps a lot since they have better prices for what they do carry. They don't carry everything, you do need to shop around to find out what else is out there.

Thanks for this advice ! I was just really pissed at how the RA guy handled my questions.He didin't even care.That got me to thinking........What if i really did have a problem ???

 

[SupaSwope]

Ah, so you had the whole assembly changed, and the gauge fluctuates now? That tells us a lot, the fuel level assembly is not something that usually needs replacing. But bad gas and older vehicles that may have set for months or years, they will begin needing that. SOme of the brands don't cost a ton, under $100, but nobody wants one that doesn't show the level well. I've driven a USPS POS white truck for about six years, and those would gain a 1/4 tank or lose 1/4 tank, depending on whether you are on the gas or brakes.

Yeah I did the whole thing cause its 18 years old and I didn't pay for it. Its wasnt the cheapest assembly at $209 but not as much as a motorcraft ($360). It doesnt fluctuate a full 1/4 of a tank but close to 3/4 of a 1/4 if that makes sense. And only when the tank is less then half a full. No problems on starting or anything so far.

 

[CDW6212R]

It looks like the Ford fuel level assembly is a high standard to beat, and not all other brands are as good. I'd try hard to save the original assembly unless it's notably degraded. I don't have any spares for my 98 return style parts, but I have two extra 99-01's evidently.Those things are hard to store and keep up with, have to do something careful with them.

 

[CDW6212R]

Rock Auto seems to have a rather strict set of policies. It looks like they have a large set of legal documents, to cover everything they could think of. I haven't gotten the impression that they are an excellent customer service company. But I have spoken with their CS about a couple of things, and had no trouble returning a core last December. The CS personnel wasn't very knowledgeable about cars, and didn't know more than what was in the descriptions on the site. So I wouldn't condemn them as a company, but just be careful about getting anything not trivial(in cost) that you aren't certain that you need.

I like Moog, but way less than others do. I had a pair of their BJ's installed a few years ago, and I discovered that one boot was the wrong size. Moog obviously messed up, but they have zero customer service, so they would not help me. I had to go through Amazon(they said), return the part, and they'd send me a new one. That was stupid, I was not going to pay more to have a BJ removed, so I could send it off to get another one, and pay again to have it installed. I took my two LCA's for my Lincoln to my alignment shop, and they installed the bushings and BJ's for $40. The bushings are dangerous to R&R, avoid that if you can.

What I did was not great, a little under handed, but Moog created the problem. I went to an Advance and asked the manager if they could help me. I'm not a big customer, but two of the people knew of me. They let me buy the BJ, and then return it shortly after, with the incorrect boot. I was very lucky to find that helpful person at Advance, most people would have left me to spend time and money R&Ring the "bad" BJ and returning it. I am more careful with buying Moog parts, Double check every component you get from them, be very sure it's all correct before beginning to use it.

 

[98 MERC]

It looks like the Ford fuel level assembly is a high standard to beat, and not all other brands are as good. I'd try hard to save the original assembly unless it's notably degraded. I don't have any spares for my 98 return style parts, but I have two extra 99-01's evidently.Those things are hard to store and keep up with, have to do something careful with them.

My stock gauge pisses me off tho.When i fill up from lets say 1/4 it gets to a tad less then 3/4 but takes like 10 freaking minutes to get to the full mark from 3/4.Sometimes a key on off cycle will fix it right away.Then you get to the hard starts and random loss of gas pedal.That is some scary **** when pulling into a intersection.

 

[SupaSwope]

My stock gauge pisses me off tho.When i fill up from lets say 1/4 it gets to a tad less then 3/4 but takes like 10 freaking minutes to get to the full mark from 3/4.Sometimes a key on off cycle will fix it right away.Then you get to the hard starts and random loss of gas pedal.That is some scary **** when pulling into a intersection.

Dude that things gonna go soon. I had similar symptoms before mind died on the highway

 

[98 MERC]

Dude that things gonna go soon. I had similar symptoms before mind died on the highway

Thank god its a weekend cruiser/restoration project LOL.I was pulling out of a greenhouse yesterday and i had about 5 cars behind me and one of them followed me out at the same time, well i started to accelerate and then the gas pedal just went limp and i mean nothing happend when i pressed the pedal.This happens for like 5 seconds and BAM she comes back to life.Its not enough to kill the engine tho.But its just soooo weird.Its almost like the gas pedal disconnects its self from the truck and re connects in 5 seconds LOL.I thought the guy was gonna smash into me.I think the fuel pump motor has a dead spot in it somewhere and it just gets stuck for a few seconds.sometimes i have to cycle the key 5 times to get this ***** to start.I sometimes hear the pump make gurgling sounds and i herd it squeal while priming last year.

 

[SupaSwope]

I had that happen but I was crossing a 3 lane intersection slightly uphill and cars were coming and I had m girlfriends kids in the car at the time. It was a very bad situation.

 

[CDW6212R]

You need to work on that fuel system soon. That sounds like either the pump, or debris in the strainer/filter/gas. If there are issues with the gauge doing odd things, I'd worry that it has debris in the gas.

I had a very minor symptom with my Mountaineer until it got bad enough to make me drop the tank and look. I had the tank inner surface coming off in the fuel. The sock was full and the fuel pressure had just a week before finally dropped below 30psi, about 28psi. The damage was done by previous lack of use of the truck for long periods of time, and the alcohol in gas. I wasn't able to drive that truck much more after that. Now it waits for me to find time to try one last trying before assuming the valves are hurt.

Change your fuel filter, see what the gas looks like coming out of each end, not which is inlet/outlet. Drop the tank and clean out as much as you can. If it's clean inside, the tank inner surface, you're good. Install the new pump, plus the assembly if it needs it, and a new strainer/sock, and put it back together.

 

[98 MERC]

I put a new filter on it 3 years ago from napa and a oxy sensor and noticed a power gain right away.When i first got the truck 3 years ago it did have slight hard starts but nothing like now which is 3 years from purchase.I even had my mechanic back probe the PCM harness and check if the sensor readings and the crank shaft position sensor readings were normal and they were.Even replaced the crank sensor 2 times LOL.He and i thought no way in hell it was the fuel pump.He was like i think its your pcm LOL he was out of steam and just started to make guesses.Its not the pcm as the engine light always come on with the key on and goes off after start.He did do a fuel pressure check but like i said it doesn't always act up so its hard to do a pressure check when it happens.Well here we are today 3 years later and he says to me last week.......Hey man i had a guy come in with your same symptoms with his explorer, and he brought a pump in and i installed it for him and his truck runs like new ! But before that i started doing fuel pump research and read TONS AND TONS of forums and watched videos and did my own trouble shooting for the last 3 years.I then came to the conclusion that its the fuel pump.It just took me awhile to put it all together because i was always told that the fuel pump either works or it doesn't.Would you believe that i have taken several 200 mile round trips with this thing ? LOL

 

[CDW6212R]

My truck had a mild intermittent symptom, and I checked the fuel pressure early on. I checked it four times in total over about 18 months, and the last time it finally showed below the 30psi limit you look for. I didn't have but maybe 8000 miles on it from the last time the tank was dropped, so I looked at other things.

For a three year time since the last fuel filter, it's time to do that for sure. That can be a tell tale sign if there is any notable amount of sediment getting through the pump to the filter. What pours out of it should be just cloudy at most, but have no real particles of size or amount. Mine had too much and too large of size in it, so I knew a lot was going through the pump.

Seeing the tank corrosion the last time, I know I need a new tank, thus I avoiding driving it until I find the issue, and a tank. I have plans to replace the tank of my newest truck when I make it A4WD, so I could use the old one for the other truck.

 

[98 MERC]

When i have him do the pump soon i will have a new filter put in at the same time.

I will make sure he checks the gas tank.I thought we had plastic gas tanks ? Maybe i am mistaken.Dam i should of kept that last fuel filter from 3 years ago and cut it open.

 

[CDW6212R]

The tanks became steel again in 1995, the 1st gen's have plastic tanks. There is a coating on the inside surface, it can survive for decades unless some gas with alcohol is left too long, and then it turns corrosive.

 

[98 MERC]

Ok its interesting you bring up the vehicle for sitting to long.The owner i bought it from did let it sit off and on.They wanted to use their VW Beatle for fuel economy LOL.How long did they let it sit for ? I have no idea.It could of sat for a year maybe.I will make sure he checks tank condition.Can you even buy new gas tanks ?

 

[SupaSwope]

Yeah Tanks on Rock auto run 142-175

 

[98 MERC]

I noticed autozone sells spectra and dorman gas tanks,but in the pics the dorman looks like poop.The spectra looked very nice.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's why I suggested changing the fuel filter now. If the tank is fouled badly like mine was, there should be an excessive amount of dirty gas pour out of the filter. Normally it will be a little cloudy etc, but I'm talking about a lot of foreign material, enough to make you say whoa. If the gas is that fouled, you need to try hard to keep anything from reaching the engine, hurting the injectors or worse.

 

[ranger7ltr]

If the fuel coming out of the filter looks like coffee or worse and/or the inside of the tank looks rusty it's time to replace the tank...Below is what I was seeing before I changed my tank and even boiling it out at a radiator shop did not help...The new tank looks a wee bit better and I don't have to own stock in Fram fuel filters as I was changing filters every 300-500 miles...