Diagnosed: Wheel Bearing Noise, 2004 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Diagnosed: Wheel Bearing Noise, 2004

imp

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Location
West-Central AZ along the Colorado River
Year, Model & Trim Level
59 Ranchero F250 D'Line
Last few years, my hearing has deteriorated, but I still perceive new noises which arise, just not as well...

On our way to Arizona from Missouri, last November, I detected what I then thought was gear hum, not bad, but hearable with windows closed, and it came and went, as gear noise sometimes does.

Now back in MO, about 4,000 miles later, the noise is constant, louder, still not bad enough to be precurser of disaster! My wife's much better hearing placed it in the rear, as I did also, but not dead certain. My reasoning was, pinion bearing noise would surely not continue this long without ensuing failure; pinion bearings are extremely high-stressed, make 4 times as many revolutions as wheel bearings......so, I bought rear wheel bearings from NAPA- shock of the day! $ 174 list EACH, $ 92 my cost! Then, I found a listing on E-bay, BOTH bearings AND BOTH brand-new hubs, complete with wheel-studs, $ 51.50! Ordered, received, looked over, very quality-looking workmanship, studs actually feel quite hard to the "file" test, not soft. Bearings look identical in every way to NAPA's. 'Course, the stuff's made in China. But how do I know that SKF, ***, etc. aren't also, nowadays?

Today, placed jack stands directly under all 4 lower shock supports, removed all 4 wheels, drew up 2 lug nuts each corner to clamp rotors against hubs, had wife run her up to 40 or so, listened closely all 4 corners, "stethoscoped" using long screwdriver, including rear pinion area of differential, but by then was pretty certain: Left rear wheel bearing, noisy even with weight of vehicle removed. I could feel the bearing vibration by placing my fingers atop the upper control arm; other side no such feeling. Front wheel hubs both quiet.

Small problem: for whatever reason, both rear axles spun at about the same speed, but front, one spun considerably faster than the other. I did all this "running", BTW, in "4X4 HIGH" (not AWD). She announced "2 icons lit up!" The wrench, and "ABS". Not to worry, PCM thought something was drastically awry! Put the wheels back on, took her for a spin, wrench went away immediately upon engine starting, "ABS" indicator took a few hundred feet of travel, and went out.

My work is now cut out for me.......imp :(
 



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Steve, glad to see you made it back to the Ozarks safely. Quite playing around on the computer and get your truck fixed!!!
 






Small problem: for whatever reason, both rear axles spun at about the same speed, but front, one spun considerably faster than the other. I did all this "running", BTW, in "4X4 HIGH" (not AWD). She announced "2 icons lit up!" The wrench, and "ABS". Not to worry, PCM thought something was drastically awry! Put the wheels back on, took her for a spin, wrench went away immediately upon engine starting, "ABS" indicator took a few hundred feet of travel, and went out.
My work is now cut out for me.......imp :(

I could be wrong but with an open diff (fronts are) there might be some bias towards one wheel (not 100%). I had an old RWD with an open rear many years ago and if i remember right only one wheel would spin on a hoist. Is your rear LSD? When i had my AWD on the hoist, all 4 spun the same, fyi. Maybe a brake is dragging?

anyways in your case with one wheel spinning faster it would trigger the ABS because it expects the wheels to be at the same speed, since one wasn't so it thought the sensor going out.

I'd just put the new bearing/hub in and call it a day.
 






I could be wrong but with an open diff (fronts are) there might be some bias towards one wheel (not 100%). There likely is some bias, due to unequal frictional characteristics between the two axles, especially ones with joints in them. I had an old RWD with an open rear many years ago and if i remember right only one wheel would spin on a hoist. Is your rear LSD? ..Not LSD, open type. When i had my AWD on the hoist, all 4 spun the same, fyi. Maybe a brake is dragging?..Turned all 4 rotors by hand in advance, seemed to be about the same, drag-wise.

anyways in your case with one wheel spinning faster it would trigger the ABS because it expects the wheels to be at the same speed, since one wasn't so it thought the sensor going out.

I'd just put the new bearing/hub in and call it a day...Boy, I hope it takes only a day! Only concern I really have, is the tool shown to press the splined shaft loose within the hub; I ain't got one. Ordered and got a deep 36mm socket today, and it's wall thickness was too great to allow it to fit into the pocket in the hub! Lucky I have an old lathe....imp
 






Steve, glad to see you made it back to the Ozarks safely. Quite playing around on the computer and get your truck fixed!!!

Will do, but tempted to wait and see just how far the thing will go yet on a noisy bearing! May have already pushed it a bit, though........imp
 






Will do, but tempted to wait and see just how far the thing will go yet on a noisy bearing! May have already pushed it a bit, though........imp

Not recommended. I pushed mine too far recently and wish I hadn't. She was about to blow and could have been catastrophic. Was stranded in another state and had to get towed. I say fix it now!
 






OK, Tore into it Yesterday

Not recommended. I pushed mine too far recently and wish I hadn't. She was about to blow and could have been catastrophic. Was stranded in another state and had to get towed. I say fix it now!

Took pic today, preview of post shows only red "X", so I dunno about the brng. pic..... There is good coverage already in "sticky", but thought since I skin cats different sometimes, I'll briefly tell a bit about it.

Hardest part of job: getting parking brake cable detached, which is necessary to place knuckle in axle press to remove old brng. Attachments of toe rod end and upper arm very rusted, penetrating oil helped, axle shaft spline pressed back (loosened) in hub quite easily, spline is straight, not tapered.

Tore old brng. open, found small patch of outer race spalled about 3/8-inch square, the rollers still were running on a little bit of smooth surface on either side of the bad place, but good thing it was found this early.....there were small metal particles in the brng. Surprisingly, rollers looked good. New brng. pressed into knuckle easily, new hub into brng. good and tight, "feel" when turned by hand excellent!

One point to be made: the Ford Shop Manual specifically notes DO NOT TIGHTEN LOWER SHOCK ABSORBER ATTACHMENT UNTIL IT IS SUPPORTING WEIGHT OF VEHICLE. This raises my only question about the whole damn job: bushing in lower shock "eye" feels like it rolls around as though it is a ball joint. Cannot tell if this is "wear", or normal. Bushing integral with shock, I believe, whole thing must be replaced if bad, apparently. Only dilemma here. imp

EDIT: I goofed, no idea what I was thinking! Above, the warning from the Shop Manual is CORRECT, but the bushing I was referring to was NOT the lower shock mount, but rather the lower A-arm to knuckle support bushing.

wheel_10.jpg
 






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